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Old 11-03-2008, 09:02 PM #11
icough2getoff
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nice little veg cab you have going there repuk. I think it would be pretty hard to give plants too much light with floros. 110w of floros should be fine as long as heat doesn't become a problem. That temp controller on your fan is a nice touch.
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Old 11-04-2008, 10:34 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobaaaac
You know... I had three females out of my 10. Two of them were awesome, and one comes really lacking on density, smell, flavor and maybe potency. The one that comes out lacking was a monster in veg. This pheno are consistently the best looking plants that I grow until about the fifth week of flower and then the buds just never swell like they should and come out tasting and smelling like hay.
I don't get it... which pheno is the keeper? the ones that don't look awesome??

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Originally Posted by tobaaaac
The one that I decided to keep is a really stretchy sativa pheno with a high that will keep you up till 5am just sweeping the grow room for no reason. The buds begin smelling like lemons, but not like the way OG Kush does and then progress into some citrus fruit that doesn't really exist. She produces semi-dense buds that foxtail some from like week 6.5 on under my lights. When smoked in a bowl, she tastes slightly fruity but mostly like hash. When vaporized, she tastes like orange sweet tarts. I hand water topfeed with almost no run off in straight coco using the H3ad's formula watered down to about 650ppm. She's ridiculously light eating, and is still lush and green come cut time if I switch to plain pH'ed water half way through week 5.
That's what I've read from Mandala Mike, beter keep low ppms... I learnt that also the hard way

So the stretchy sativa (guess leaves are also on the sativa side?) is the one to look for??

thanks for the tips!
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Old 11-04-2008, 10:49 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icough2getoff
nice little veg cab you have going there repuk. I think it would be pretty hard to give plants too much light with floros. 110w of floros should be fine as long as heat doesn't become a problem. That temp controller on your fan is a nice touch.
Thanks icough2getoff!

Great, I will build a double PLL fixture then. I think I could manage heat, putting the ballast the highest I could, of putting them outside if heat isn't manageable... I also build the fixture so that heat doesn't get trapped and can easily flow through the reflector to the cab top and then get extracted in order to be able to put it the closer to the plants the better.

I'm wayyyy happy with the thermo setup!!! max temp is nailed down now at 25C, but humidity has been kept stable in a much more healthy range now, between 50-80% RH instead of 35-50% I had before, and the plants clearly show it.

I also see the coco dries out much more gradually, prior to adding the regulator, the following day after watering coco was still humid, then the next day were almost bone dry. Now on the second day after watering the coco feels partially dry, but is still humid and seems to dry more evenly, whereas before it dried from top to bottom.

I have been next to the cab for 2-3 hours and the regulator could be easily heard working: throttling, revving up regularly.

So I'm a happy camper now I wholeheartedly recommend it for micro cab setups, plus the ability to stick the "probe" (the NTC resistor) at canopy level or whatever needed spot, where temperature really matters is great. A steal for less that $5 if built from new parts: just a NTC resistor, a N channel Mosfet and a potentiometer or trimpot.

Last edited by repuk; 11-04-2008 at 10:56 AM..
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Old 11-04-2008, 09:09 PM #14
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Honestly, the indica pheno was the shit as well, but it was such a weak plant prior to the 5th week of flowering that I didn't get a clone. I guess what I'm trying to say is that you won't know until you see the buds. Both the one that I kept and the one that wasn't up to par were both sativa pheno. I think that you'll really be able to tell in the last 3 weeks of flowering. They both performed similarly through the bud set period. The one that ended up being worse began producing semidense buds and the better one began producing wispy foxtailing buds. Once the buds really begin to come on hard, the calyxes on the keeper swell quite a lot and the density improves. The non keeper's buds keep growing straight out but never swell properly. I hope that I'm making sense.
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Old 11-05-2008, 07:56 AM #15
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So I'd better take clones from all of them just in case... thanks!

Update: I built another light fixture, holding 2 PLL 55W.

The Skunks and one of the Sadhus seems to have a problem, I thought at first it was nute burn, so I flushed and every two days water with ph'ed water, lowering the A+B dosage.

But it seems to keep going, the older leaves are diying, will post some pics today.
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:01 PM #16
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i would seriously need somekind of gizmo like that - to make sure the fans - or atleast one of the get switched off at too low temps.

my new growroom gets damn cold at night - 17º!

just cram the space full of fluorecents, the plant love it!

lower leafs normally die of on indoor plants under lower light intensity - spreading the plants out the maximum posible fixes that..

they normally get a bit pale, the tips die etc.. something like that?
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Old 11-06-2008, 09:01 AM #17
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Originally Posted by bonecarver_OG
i would seriously need somekind of gizmo like that - to make sure the fans - or atleast one of the get switched off at too low temps.

my new growroom gets damn cold at night - 17º!
Bone, do you use AC or DC fans? For AC fans you could use a ready made modular thermostat, I've seen here a post explaining how to wire it.

If they're DC I can send you a module in a snap... just need to know the fan Amp draw to make sure the mosfet will not melt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonecarver_OG
just cram the space full of fluorecents, the plant love it!
Here´s the DIY 2 PLL light fixture, plants canopy are now perfectly flat and level, they leaned towards the PLL before.


(Higher resolution)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonecarver_OG
lower leafs normally die of on indoor plants under lower light intensity - spreading the plants out the maximum posible fixes that..

they normally get a bit pale, the tips die etc.. something like that?
Yes... Here's a pic. I'm afraid I pushed a little the amount of plants in there...


(higher resolution)

Overal looks


(Higher resolution)

BTW I have a condensation drier machine, measured the EC of its water and it's 0.04... PH like tap's water. I watered yesterday with a 50/50 mix.

A question, once PH calibration solution has been used could it be reused? either it doesn't and its PH drifts of I cannot seem to keep my PH Meter (Hanna) calibrated :( I tested it yesterday and the PH7 solution read 7.6

Last edited by repuk; 11-06-2008 at 09:09 AM..
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Old 11-06-2008, 12:01 PM #18
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i use also a dehumidifier - the water is perfect! but 50% mix is a lot - the plants need the lime in the water (K) so i try to give at mroe or less 1/3 of it - but it depends on your tapwater - murcia where i live the water is not good at all..

ph calibration - yeah people have told me for years they jsut close the bags with a cloth-pin or something - i started recycling it a few months ago. works perfect!. just keep themm closed.

its very important to keep them closed - contact with air will change the ph. i use my liqiud about 2 times - max 3. not more.
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Old 11-06-2008, 05:44 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonecarver_OG
i use also a dehumidifier - the water is perfect! but 50% mix is a lot - the plants need the lime in the water (K) so i try to give at mroe or less 1/3 of it - but it depends on your tapwater - murcia where i live the water is not good at all..
Ok, noted! Here in Seville water is usually very good (EC 0.29). Dunno about its lime contents though.

Quote:
ph calibration - yeah people have told me for years they jsut close the bags with a cloth-pin or something - i started recycling it a few months ago. works perfect!. just keep themm closed.

its very important to keep them closed - contact with air will change the ph. i use my liqiud about 2 times - max 3. not more.
My calibration buffers are barely a couple weeks old... I keep them into photo film containers, pretty airtight.

I called the store where I bought the PH Meter and readed a couple documents and it seems the PH meter should be stored in tap water. It also seems that to wake or stabilise a new PH meter probe it helps to store it on PH4 solution... will try that also.

thanks!
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:18 PM #20
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Well, it seems I finally got the meter calibrated and stabilised... I keep it now in a glass with tap water. I bought new calibration sachets, the "old" ones were fine.

I transplanted the bigger plants to 2L square pots:



They were 3 weeks old and had developed a pretty good rootball, I think next time I will transplant when they're 2 weeks old, thought on tetrabricks as pots... will they be fine for growing?



Lessons learnt: don't use paper solo cups, roots get into the paper I will be using just coco (just pressed the first handful so that coco doesn't go when watering) no perlite or hydroton. I tenderly loosened the rootball then put into the square pots.

I'm also using a mist maker (10 minutes each hour) in a water reservoir as humidifier in the lower area. The moist towel hardly kept humidity for half a day with the 2 PLLs.

With it RH is kept steady at 60-50%, temp 26C, fan speed set at medium to low speed.

BTW almost all plants sport a very healthy green colour, they look yellow in the cab inside pic due to overexposure.

I'm starting to think I may have stuck too many plants in there (12 plus 2 small seedlings). if they start to branch out they will be pretty tight...

Last edited by repuk; 11-17-2008 at 05:48 PM..
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