I would follow the "rules of thumb" in the first post or the recipe I posted.
"The hydro store is a rip off" -Bill Farthing
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DIY IPM Recipes
- Thread starter BillFarthing
- Start date
I would follow the "rules of thumb" in the first post or the recipe I posted.
"The hydro store is a rip off" -Bill Farthing
From what I remember from the hydro store, Root Cleaner is just a watered down version of Green Cleaner. I think Sea Green vs. Sea Green hydro did the same thing. Double check the label just to be sure.
BubbaBear
Member
Great thread Bill...
I prefer oxidizers for my IPM, ozonated water is the cleanest thing you can use. Ozonated distilled water is the only true zero residual solution. It kills PM, mold, most bugs and there eggs. Not as clean as ozone is hydrogen peroxide but its great too 15-25% of the 3% hydrogen peroxide will also kill PM, mold and most bugs and there eggs. Combining ozone and hydrogen peroxide will create a stronger oxidizer than using either of them by them selves also.
Combining hydrogen peroxide and vinegar makes a stronger oxidizer also. It makes a compound called peracitic acid . Which is whats in Oxidate 2.0 and Zerotol 2.0 there ingredients are 27% Hydrogen Peroxide and 2% Acetic Acid applied at 1-3 oz. per gallon, you'll need to use PH up if you choose this option.
You can also add some oils to any of the above recipes for residual killing action but wouldn't recommend adding any oils past week 3 of flower 4-8ml per gallon of soybean oil and 4-8ml per gallon of lemongrass oil or tea tree oil works great, tea tree oil and lemongrass oil evaporates quickly but the soybean oil sticks around for barrier protection. If you use oils your also going to need a emulsifier, potassium silicate is a great option because it raises the PH and emulsifies, dish soap or yucca work great too but wont raise PH. You can also ozonate the oils for more oxidation action.
Using a airless paint sprayer is also a far superior application method over a spray bottle, Harbor freight has a decent one for $15
I prefer oxidizers for my IPM, ozonated water is the cleanest thing you can use. Ozonated distilled water is the only true zero residual solution. It kills PM, mold, most bugs and there eggs. Not as clean as ozone is hydrogen peroxide but its great too 15-25% of the 3% hydrogen peroxide will also kill PM, mold and most bugs and there eggs. Combining ozone and hydrogen peroxide will create a stronger oxidizer than using either of them by them selves also.
Combining hydrogen peroxide and vinegar makes a stronger oxidizer also. It makes a compound called peracitic acid . Which is whats in Oxidate 2.0 and Zerotol 2.0 there ingredients are 27% Hydrogen Peroxide and 2% Acetic Acid applied at 1-3 oz. per gallon, you'll need to use PH up if you choose this option.
You can also add some oils to any of the above recipes for residual killing action but wouldn't recommend adding any oils past week 3 of flower 4-8ml per gallon of soybean oil and 4-8ml per gallon of lemongrass oil or tea tree oil works great, tea tree oil and lemongrass oil evaporates quickly but the soybean oil sticks around for barrier protection. If you use oils your also going to need a emulsifier, potassium silicate is a great option because it raises the PH and emulsifies, dish soap or yucca work great too but wont raise PH. You can also ozonate the oils for more oxidation action.
Using a airless paint sprayer is also a far superior application method over a spray bottle, Harbor freight has a decent one for $15
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BubbaBear
Member
With all this COVID19 crap everywhere I figured I'd share a couple more of my IPM techniques that I've pulled out of my grow room into my living room to help combat any potential airborne and surface virus contaminants.
First is a MERV 13 grade air filter taped to a box fan. They work great in the grow room to help keep dust and micro particles like pet dander and dog hair off your plants. They even filter mold, mildew, bacteria and viruses out of the air. I use one for my intake and two in my grow room. A 20x20x1" filter fits perfectly on most box fans. There cheap and effective.
https://www.amazon.com/AIRx-HEALTH-20x20x1-Pleated-Filter/dp/B01HTL3W02
Second is UVC ozone bulbs scattered throughout my grow room about every 4 feet with a few on light movers. They kill airborne and surface mold, mildew, bacteria and viruses. My room is virtually PM free now that I use these bulbs and I live in a rainy forest with lots of PM in the air. It's the same tech that they use in those rip off Clean Light units they sell for $450 but also with ozone, since your not going to be in the room while using it makes it safe to use the UVC plus ozone bulbs. They usually sell E27 25w UVC ozone bulbs on Amazon for about $15 but there about $30 right now thanks to COVID19. If you want to use it as a hand held unit make sure you get the ozone free bulb and get some packaging tape a disposable foil cooking pan to use as a reflector this method works but is a pain in the ass, I recommend buying several and scattering them throughout your room about every 4 feet because your really dont want to be anywhere around when these bulbs are on in my opinion. I have them on a timer to come on for one minute right before my lights come on, for one minute six hours into the light cycle and for one minute right when the lights go out, they supposedly work better when your grow lights are not on. Using them to much will burn your plants so you have to be careful, but using them properly benefit your plants in many ways, they make them thicker skinned, they make them produce more resin, and they will kill any mold, mildew, bacteria or viruses that lands on your plants. If your using it in a living spaces you can use it for longer periods but use it with a timer and do not be in the room when its its on.
Goods surface: ( 5 minutes once ). put goods within 4 ft of the light, such as cups, bottles, toothbrushes, shaver, cell phones, keyboards, clothes...
Small space: ( 5 minutes once ). ≤ 50 sq.ft. as shoe cabinet, drawer, toy box, wardrobe.
Small room: (15 minutes once ). ≤ 200 sq.ft. such as dog/chicken house, toilet, storage room.
Larger room: (15-60 minutes once ). ≤ 400 sq.ft. kitchen, living room, bedroom...
https://www.amazon.com/Germicidal-Screw-Socket-Light-Ozone/dp/B07YCM12XV
First is a MERV 13 grade air filter taped to a box fan. They work great in the grow room to help keep dust and micro particles like pet dander and dog hair off your plants. They even filter mold, mildew, bacteria and viruses out of the air. I use one for my intake and two in my grow room. A 20x20x1" filter fits perfectly on most box fans. There cheap and effective.
https://www.amazon.com/AIRx-HEALTH-20x20x1-Pleated-Filter/dp/B01HTL3W02
Second is UVC ozone bulbs scattered throughout my grow room about every 4 feet with a few on light movers. They kill airborne and surface mold, mildew, bacteria and viruses. My room is virtually PM free now that I use these bulbs and I live in a rainy forest with lots of PM in the air. It's the same tech that they use in those rip off Clean Light units they sell for $450 but also with ozone, since your not going to be in the room while using it makes it safe to use the UVC plus ozone bulbs. They usually sell E27 25w UVC ozone bulbs on Amazon for about $15 but there about $30 right now thanks to COVID19. If you want to use it as a hand held unit make sure you get the ozone free bulb and get some packaging tape a disposable foil cooking pan to use as a reflector this method works but is a pain in the ass, I recommend buying several and scattering them throughout your room about every 4 feet because your really dont want to be anywhere around when these bulbs are on in my opinion. I have them on a timer to come on for one minute right before my lights come on, for one minute six hours into the light cycle and for one minute right when the lights go out, they supposedly work better when your grow lights are not on. Using them to much will burn your plants so you have to be careful, but using them properly benefit your plants in many ways, they make them thicker skinned, they make them produce more resin, and they will kill any mold, mildew, bacteria or viruses that lands on your plants. If your using it in a living spaces you can use it for longer periods but use it with a timer and do not be in the room when its its on.
Goods surface: ( 5 minutes once ). put goods within 4 ft of the light, such as cups, bottles, toothbrushes, shaver, cell phones, keyboards, clothes...
Small space: ( 5 minutes once ). ≤ 50 sq.ft. as shoe cabinet, drawer, toy box, wardrobe.
Small room: (15 minutes once ). ≤ 200 sq.ft. such as dog/chicken house, toilet, storage room.
Larger room: (15-60 minutes once ). ≤ 400 sq.ft. kitchen, living room, bedroom...
https://www.amazon.com/Germicidal-Screw-Socket-Light-Ozone/dp/B07YCM12XV
Last edited:
Great thread Bill...
I prefer oxidizers for my IPM, ozonated water is the cleanest thing you can use. Ozonated distilled water is the only true zero residual solution. It kills PM, mold, most bugs and there eggs. Not as clean as ozone is hydrogen peroxide but its great too 15-25% of the 3% hydrogen peroxide will also kill PM, mold and most bugs and there eggs. Combining ozone and hydrogen peroxide will create a stronger oxidizer than using either of them by them selves also.
Combining hydrogen peroxide and vinegar makes a stronger oxidizer also. It makes a compound called peracitic acid . Which is whats in Oxidate 2.0 and Zerotol 2.0 there ingredients are 27% Hydrogen Peroxide and 2% Acetic Acid applied at 1-3 oz. per gallon, you'll need to use PH up if you choose this option.
You can also add some oils to any of the above recipes for residual killing action but wouldn't recommend adding any oils past week 3 of flower 4-8ml per gallon of soybean oil and 4-8ml per gallon of lemongrass oil or tea tree oil works great, tea tree oil and lemongrass oil evaporates quickly but the soybean oil sticks around for barrier protection. If you use oils your also going to need a emulsifier, potassium silicate is a great option because it raises the PH and emulsifies, dish soap or yucca work great too but wont raise PH. You can also ozonate the oils for more oxidation action.
Using a airless paint sprayer is also a far superior application method over a spray bottle, Harbor freight has a decent one for $15
I guess you make that ozonated water yourself? How many ppm and how do you do this?
BubbaBear
Member
I've never tried to measure the amount of ozone, if you start seeing burn marks on your leaves ozonate the water less. I only saw burn when I was using a 10,000 mg/h unit that's strong enough to sterilize a pool.
I recommend using a 1000-3000 mg/h unit you can find them cheap on ebay but they dont last that long if you use it daily. Foreverozone has a decent 1000 mg/h unit for about $120.
I usually do a quart at a time, put the ozone unit in a plastic bin to concentrate the ozone. Ozone concentrates in cold air and water easier so I make a ice block or cubes with distilled water and bubble it till the ice is melted usually about 30 minutes.
Oh and also make sure you use a quality ozone resistant glass air stone or it will break down and end up in the water your ozonating.
I recommend using a 1000-3000 mg/h unit you can find them cheap on ebay but they dont last that long if you use it daily. Foreverozone has a decent 1000 mg/h unit for about $120.
I usually do a quart at a time, put the ozone unit in a plastic bin to concentrate the ozone. Ozone concentrates in cold air and water easier so I make a ice block or cubes with distilled water and bubble it till the ice is melted usually about 30 minutes.
Oh and also make sure you use a quality ozone resistant glass air stone or it will break down and end up in the water your ozonating.
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BubbaBear
Member
Yes placing the ozone unit in a plastic bin while ozonating the water will concentrate the amount of ozone and make it so you dont have to smell it. Here's a cheap ozone unit from China. Foreverozone.com makes a quality one for $129 the link wouldn't work for them for some reason though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ozone-Gene...ize-Purifier-Cleaner-Home-Treat-/333557581829
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ozone-Gene...ize-Purifier-Cleaner-Home-Treat-/333557581829
BubbaBear
Member
No problem, that should work just ozonate for a minute or two. I judge the strength by how much ozone you can smell coming off your water (very scientific I know) You want to smell a decent amount but if it smells really strong its probably to strong and you may see some burn on your plants which isnt the end of the world just do some testing. I dont know what the saturation point is but the longer you ozonate the water the stronger the ozone smell is so I think you can get quite a bit of ozone in the water. You want to use it as soon as possible or it will degrade to oxygen, It stays in the water longer the colder it is.
More Potassium Silicate with Neem
More Potassium Silicate with Neem
I am using the Neem Oil Potassium Silicate Aloe recipe for PM preventive primarily but also some residual Aphids. Anyway I found that the addition of Castile Soap among with this helped form a better emulsion. What I really want to do is double the Silica in the recipe since I believe that is what really keeps the POM at bay.
Anyway, two question here
oes anyone see any reason I can not double the Potassium Silicate in the recipe of 1 tbl Neem to 1-2 tsp of 8% give or take Potassium Silcate solution?
I'd like to do an even tsp/tsp per quart.
And does anyone see any reason why the addition of a 1/2 to 1 tsp Dr Bronners Castile Peppermint soap to this would be harmful (too much ingredients)?
Thanks for your time...
More Potassium Silicate with Neem
I am using the Neem Oil Potassium Silicate Aloe recipe for PM preventive primarily but also some residual Aphids. Anyway I found that the addition of Castile Soap among with this helped form a better emulsion. What I really want to do is double the Silica in the recipe since I believe that is what really keeps the POM at bay.
Anyway, two question here
oes anyone see any reason I can not double the Potassium Silicate in the recipe of 1 tbl Neem to 1-2 tsp of 8% give or take Potassium Silcate solution?I'd like to do an even tsp/tsp per quart.
And does anyone see any reason why the addition of a 1/2 to 1 tsp Dr Bronners Castile Peppermint soap to this would be harmful (too much ingredients)?
Thanks for your time...
chilliwilli
Waterboy
Hi folks i'm trying a new mix for ipm.
the amounts of the essentials i got from looking through severals studies about essential oils against spidermites
All amounts are per liter
0.4g camphor crystals
0.13g menthol crystals
0.3g thymeoil(ct thymol)
0.3g orange oil
1g diatomaceous earth
2.87g potassium soap
5 g sesame seed oil
The essential oils are meant as active ingredient and the rest for mixing. 0.1% diatomaceous earth can also act against pest but i'm not sure if mixing it with 0.5% plant oils is a good idea. I mix the diatomaceous earth with the essential oils first so it can suck them up and then add the potassium soap and sesame seed oil. This gives me a honey like consistency and a smell that remings me of some cough sweets
I have tried this mixture on veg plants and they look not harmed after a day. I will report here how it works on a regulare base.
the amounts of the essentials i got from looking through severals studies about essential oils against spidermites
All amounts are per liter
0.4g camphor crystals
0.13g menthol crystals
0.3g thymeoil(ct thymol)
0.3g orange oil
1g diatomaceous earth
2.87g potassium soap
5 g sesame seed oil
The essential oils are meant as active ingredient and the rest for mixing. 0.1% diatomaceous earth can also act against pest but i'm not sure if mixing it with 0.5% plant oils is a good idea. I mix the diatomaceous earth with the essential oils first so it can suck them up and then add the potassium soap and sesame seed oil. This gives me a honey like consistency and a smell that remings me of some cough sweets
I have tried this mixture on veg plants and they look not harmed after a day. I will report here how it works on a regulare base.
The original recipe for Mammoth Biocontrol was:
5% Thyme Oil
90% Light corn oil
5% Liquid Lecithins (sunflower)
Shake well and use sticker/spreader like a non-ionic surfactant. Use at 3 oz. (90 ml)/gallon final dilution.
ExoticsRus
Active member
is the green cleaner recipe for concentrated rate or is that “1 gal” for ready use and you don’t follow their concentrated rate after making it?
