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ultimate tricantanol, brassilonide, bap-6 thread

well the last foliar feeding is in 3 days or so. the BAP-6 i have read has the 85 day FDA use restriction, so they say 85 days later from spray you can comsume and the levels will be low enough easily. thats 12 weeks, i am running these 14 and spraying around week 4 ONE TIME, so i am somewhat not waiting long enough. a few weeks.

the tricantanol is a hormone thats in quite a few products. Canna Boost, Advanced Nutrients Nirvana, alfalfa meal has it, so its used widely(GH rapid start has alfalfa extract). CANNA recommends use of the boost right up until flush, so i do not see a problem as many have seen an improved quality of the final product by use of tricantanol. this is mainly due to increased resin and crystal content. all this is mostly what i have discerned from numerous threads and also the research many have posted on this forum alone. my last spray of TRI was 2 days ago, from here on its water in only.

mainly why i switched over too these hormones is because i was a long time, old time HCO Gravity user. not much compares too what that product does too your plants. but it imparts a harsh taste if used too late or too much, but the colors and the bud density is hard to match. so here i am trying to match it. (plus they put nasties in their product, but so does many of the non-NPK boosters that do SOOOOO much)

anyways, i bought a 1/4 liter of boost and i liked it last run and kept on researching it, and thats what has led me too this experiment.

Long winded, but my best explanation
 
i will be adding it to the water in a few days, but most people do just root feed the tricantanol and it works fine, although more is needed for this. i use 30 gallons too water with and if i wanted to root feed them it would take me 1 gallon of 1 ppm solution spread evenly through the six 5 gallon buckets.

so it works either way. after week 4 flower i will be watering it in with my normal water every 4 days or so.
 

MileHighGuy

Active member
Veteran
Bubble some kelp meal about a cup per 4-5 gallons and keep it going for a couple days.

Triacontonol, Cytokinins, Indoles, Hormones, Auxins and Gibberellins.

Anyone here use kelp?

Edit: Triacontonol is in alfalfa, I use both and crossed my notes, my apologies.
 
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yes sir. i use kelp in my veg room. i foliar it and it keeps things nice and tight node wise. it also gives real good amount of trace minerals. I stick with this instead of the BAP6 in veg because it works well so why fix it.
 
so quick update for the night. i am going to have to start putting a little bit of water in the bottom of these ladies trays, they are straight drinking themselves dry enough i can lift the whole thing one handed. now its just starting to get warm, i have only seen them do this in pretty warm heat, so they are definitely drinking much much more.

now this is just a theory, but i feel as though they will be able to take a higher ppm this way, they are already showing some yellowing of big bottom fan leaves and i just stopped the nitrogen a few days ago, so they are definitely EATing more, but what exactly does that mean for me, should i feed higher, or just keep chugging along?
 

Dkgrower

Active member
Veteran
Nice info stealthy - cool with the pics and hands on tip.

I just use aminoacids and kelp but i might just go ahead and order some pure tricontanol and try it..

Any tips for european outlets of tria ?
 

MileHighGuy

Active member
Veteran
Straight Kelp Meal bubbled will give you all the Triacontanol, Cytokinins, Indoles, Hormones, Auxins and Gibberellins you need and they will also have the right amount of nutrients and vitamins to help deliver all of this beneficial amazingness to your plants.

EDIT: Triacontanol is in Alfalfa

And some more info just because I am currently reading more about kelp and am blown away by this plant.

I usually just feed it right to the soil, but was curious about people growing in different ways, and how they might benefit from kelp meal too.

picture.php
[/IMG]
 
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Dkgrower

Active member
Veteran
Hey milehigh that is new to me - ditten know that Seeweed contains triacontanol
i know that alfalfa do.

Also are u sure that u can dissolve triacontanol in a ECT

I agree with u that Seaweed is a very good tool in a garden but think that it should be used as a foliar feed if u want the plant to harvest the full benifits or els u are "just" feeding the microbes - the same goes for aminoacids.

Dont get me wrong feeding microbes is a good thing but i use less expensive inputs in ACT

Edit btw i really dig that chart is that showing seaweed meal contents ?
 

citifield

Member
What negatives have you heard about gebbrellic acid? I use NF Zyme which contains gebbrellic acid and love it. They say only to use I'm veg for root and shoot development
 
well first gibberlic acid is used for making herms. in small amounts i have read that it is ok for use, but in large amounts i heard that it can be detrimental. some use it in flower and say they get a huge rush of flowers. others say they spray it and it makes their plants herm.

in veg is when it is supposed to be used from what i understand but it makes the plants stretch grow, not just regular grow. i wanted to use it on a few of my real real indica plants, the ones that take twice as long too grow, and are a short bush. thats the only real use that i have seen for the G acid.
 

citifield

Member
The NF Zyme I use has it in small concentrates, it works wonders, I don't use it on plants from seed, or a cut of ogre I have, everything else gets it though. It doesn't really make any of those slow squatty veggers get bigger faster though. the low concentration Zyme has could be the reason why. But most of the work you don't see is below the soils the rootmass goes nuts. The tightest footballs I've ever had, plants get ready to flower size much faster then before.
 
well i would think then that it is a good thing for you. the g acid i was talking of is concentrate so easy to overdue it.

i would assume that the amount in that product is small, so it probably does do a great job like your saying.
 
Ok, so update for Week 4. This is before the spray of BAP-6, which they recieved last night at a 200-250 ppm concentration. they also recieved their first taste of dry koolbloom. so these are before pics so we can see the change in them after this.

they are looking lovely though i must say and they have really needed minimal care too keep them looking nice. they are moving along nicely.
 

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and a couple closeups to keep it interesting.
 

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for rootmass though citifield, there are many hormones like IBA IAA rooting compounds. they are specifically for root.

i use the brassilonide which seems too make them root the container quite well. i have been told that some of my clones look like seed plants with their roots. i use roots excel though also. which i am still trying to find a replacement for, just gotta try a few things out.
 

MileHighGuy

Active member
Veteran
Hey milehigh that is new to me - ditten know that Seeweed contains triacontanol
i know that alfalfa do.

Also are u sure that u can dissolve triacontanol in a ECT

I agree with u that Seaweed is a very good tool in a garden but think that it should be used as a foliar feed if u want the plant to harvest the full benifits or els u are "just" feeding the microbes - the same goes for aminoacids.

Dont get me wrong feeding microbes is a good thing but i use less expensive inputs in ACT

Edit btw i really dig that chart is that showing seaweed meal contents ?


Sorry about the misinformation you are 100% correct. Triacontanol is in alfalfa... I use both and mixed my notes, but that's no excuse. I don't want any misinformation spread.


and yes, that chart is for the meal. I prefer the meal because the soluble powders are made with Potassium or Sodium Hydroxide. The secondary metabolites are important and are part of the kelp meal..... good stuff. I think I really like using it because It smells like the ocean where I grew up and now I Live in Colorado.

I'll agree that Foliar feeding with kelp meal botanical tea is good stuff..... but building a soil with it and also using foliar is pretty freaking sweet too!

:tiphat:
 

MileHighGuy

Active member
Veteran
Also, for anyone else wanting to mess around with DIY stuff....

Try sprouting 2 tablespoons of any organic seeds you have.... barley is cheap and has loads of enzymes but most any seed will work. Sprout them in a jar by keeping them soaked with water for 6-24 hours and then discard that soak water. Rinse the seeds and then let them stay in the jar with just a little tiny bit of water in them to help sprouting. Once sprouted rinse and then fill the jar with water and leave uncapped somewhere for about 3 days.

Strain and use this at 1 cup per gallon...... all I can say is watch out! You will notice an immediate reaction within a few hours or less. Leaves just reaching up and praying.... or throwing gang signs, you know just looking good.

Anyways the sprout soaked water contains high amounts of Plant Growth Hormones and Enzymes that would normally be used to Jump start the seedling..... now stolen from them Highlander style, you will used the combined energy to make killer Enzyme tea for pennies.

I'm pretty stoned, hope that made sense.... this is all information stolen in the organic forum from ClackamasCootz
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
milehigh, i experimented with barley wine extract for ponds before, but using it in my rez. and also barley straw bags floating in the rez. Barley was said to add the enzymes to help clear the water. only neg effect was the straw bag started rotting a few weeks in an turned sour.

was trying to get away from these expensive zyme products from the grow shop. and i have. been using the jungle pond zyme for over a year now from lowes or deopt. roots r healthy an one 15 dollar container treats 50,000 gallons.

i have used tricantanol powder as well with rubbing alcohol an polysorbate 20 mixture. i seen some extra stretching when used early flower, like during day 1-12 of 12/12. day 15 -20 seemed optimal an things seemed to go into overdrive a day or 2 after foliar spraying. Need to do a side by side. i continue to use arround day 20 an maybe 10 days later again.

b-safe
 

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