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Neem v Root Aphids
- Thread starter ozzieAI
- Start date
Goddamn do I despise root aphids. Give me buckets of mildew, troves of spider mites, but for the love of god none of these alien mutant fucks. Born pregnant. WTF.
Best success I've had is a combo of my homebrew organic spray and of Botanigard mycoinsecticide. Botanigard is expensive, but that's really what turned the tide for me. A couple days after applying my drainage res was a mass grave. Very satisfying.
The spray knocks out fliers on contact and the plants don't mind it so I apply it daily and just keep my bottle with me in the garden. Before watering I blast the tops of my containers/cubes and all around the plants, which is pretty effective at killing them before they have a chance to fly off to a neighbor plant. I've learned the hard way to keep spraying and applying regardless of how long it's been since I've actually seen one.
Oh, my spray is pretty easy. Kitchen sink formula:
-Put a large onion, 2 cloves garlic, a jalapeno and a habanero (or any high capsaicin peppers) through a food processor
-Combine mash with boiling water and let steep in a jar until cool.
-Add water to make a gallon and then add:
+2.5 tbsp Castille soap (Bronners works great for me)
+2.5 tbsp Neem oil
+0.5 tsp Botanigard powder
Definitely test spray a plant before going all out, but mine tolerate it very well.
Best success I've had is a combo of my homebrew organic spray and of Botanigard mycoinsecticide. Botanigard is expensive, but that's really what turned the tide for me. A couple days after applying my drainage res was a mass grave. Very satisfying.
The spray knocks out fliers on contact and the plants don't mind it so I apply it daily and just keep my bottle with me in the garden. Before watering I blast the tops of my containers/cubes and all around the plants, which is pretty effective at killing them before they have a chance to fly off to a neighbor plant. I've learned the hard way to keep spraying and applying regardless of how long it's been since I've actually seen one.
Oh, my spray is pretty easy. Kitchen sink formula:
-Put a large onion, 2 cloves garlic, a jalapeno and a habanero (or any high capsaicin peppers) through a food processor
-Combine mash with boiling water and let steep in a jar until cool.
-Add water to make a gallon and then add:
+2.5 tbsp Castille soap (Bronners works great for me)
+2.5 tbsp Neem oil
+0.5 tsp Botanigard powder
Definitely test spray a plant before going all out, but mine tolerate it very well.
Gry
Well-known member
I am on a computer with unbuntu on it and it is new to me. I had found a study where a university took infested grape stock and treated it with hot water. 135 degrees for 15 minutes. I did it in my kitchen sink with a digital thermometer and a five gallon bucket. It worked great for me. I posted the results here along with the study. I had a copy of it on my other computer, which died on me recently, other wise I would just repost the study again now.
Bottom line was I had aninfestation , bought the bottle of blue stuff, but then read of the hot water dip, and tried it. It worked great for me. So good that the bottle of blue stuff is still sitting unopened under the kitchen sink.
I reuse all my old coco, and treat it with hot water prior to doing so.
I did get Western Flower Thrip recently though, and I sure am having fun with it. Some of this stuff has built up a real nice resistance...
Bottom line was I had aninfestation , bought the bottle of blue stuff, but then read of the hot water dip, and tried it. It worked great for me. So good that the bottle of blue stuff is still sitting unopened under the kitchen sink.
I reuse all my old coco, and treat it with hot water prior to doing so.
I did get Western Flower Thrip recently though, and I sure am having fun with it. Some of this stuff has built up a real nice resistance...
Last edited:
Kygiacomo!!!
AppAlachiAn OutLaW
sierra natural natural science is the way to go and stay organic and knock these little bastards back to the stone age
Hello all,
I battled the little fuckers for a while using multiple products, organics, chems, blah blah blah. My thread is in here somewhere if your interested in reading it but if not, whatevs.
Anyway,
I'm currently helping a good friend out with his battle with root aphids and we are trying a new regimen that is actually working WONDERS with no chemicals and very easy applications. We are using Azasol and pure Cedar oil. we use the azasol for drenches and then spray the top layer of the soil heavily with diluted cedar oil (1oz per liter).The idea being that spraying the top soil layer after every watering will cause the effect of pushing the cedar oil through the entire pot eventually. We have been spraying the base of the stem much more vigorously in hopes to eliminate the "umbrella effect" that often happens under the main stem when watering.
after 2 weeks of treatments, our sticky pads have ZERO fliers, our foliage is back to healthy green, and were ready to flip the lights.
NOTE: ALL moms and clones will be flowered this round and we are tearing down and completely cleaning the room with heavy bleach, and multiple fogs of cedar oil before we start our new seeds.
heres some education on cedar oil and its effects:
Root aphids communicate through chemical signals, Cedar oil completely disrupts these signals. Unlike most pesticides cedar oil doesn't need to come into contact with the insect to disrupt their communication, the "fumes" or vapors alone will do the trick (not saying contact doesn't work better though). on top of that Cedar Oil dissolves their eggs, dehydrates their bodies, and is so noxious that it causes them to avoid breathing the fumes, causing them to "run for the hills".
All in all this method is getting him through his cycle without the use of chemicals or any adverse effects to his plants. its also a fairly cheap solution, considering the many other products out there.
I battled the little fuckers for a while using multiple products, organics, chems, blah blah blah. My thread is in here somewhere if your interested in reading it but if not, whatevs.
Anyway,
I'm currently helping a good friend out with his battle with root aphids and we are trying a new regimen that is actually working WONDERS with no chemicals and very easy applications. We are using Azasol and pure Cedar oil. we use the azasol for drenches and then spray the top layer of the soil heavily with diluted cedar oil (1oz per liter).The idea being that spraying the top soil layer after every watering will cause the effect of pushing the cedar oil through the entire pot eventually. We have been spraying the base of the stem much more vigorously in hopes to eliminate the "umbrella effect" that often happens under the main stem when watering.
after 2 weeks of treatments, our sticky pads have ZERO fliers, our foliage is back to healthy green, and were ready to flip the lights.
NOTE: ALL moms and clones will be flowered this round and we are tearing down and completely cleaning the room with heavy bleach, and multiple fogs of cedar oil before we start our new seeds.
heres some education on cedar oil and its effects:
Root aphids communicate through chemical signals, Cedar oil completely disrupts these signals. Unlike most pesticides cedar oil doesn't need to come into contact with the insect to disrupt their communication, the "fumes" or vapors alone will do the trick (not saying contact doesn't work better though). on top of that Cedar Oil dissolves their eggs, dehydrates their bodies, and is so noxious that it causes them to avoid breathing the fumes, causing them to "run for the hills".
All in all this method is getting him through his cycle without the use of chemicals or any adverse effects to his plants. its also a fairly cheap solution, considering the many other products out there.
Thanks for posting that info dabsnob, I'm in the middle of cleaning my room and that's just what I needed to hear and at the right time.
Regarding the fogger, have you used it before? Can you run the cedar oil fogger with plants in the room?
And about the cedar you are spraying on the soil surface, the cedar oil I have has 90% cedar and 10% ethyl lactate(corn oil by product), is yours 100% cedar oil?
Thanks a lot
Regarding the fogger, have you used it before? Can you run the cedar oil fogger with plants in the room?
And about the cedar you are spraying on the soil surface, the cedar oil I have has 90% cedar and 10% ethyl lactate(corn oil by product), is yours 100% cedar oil?
Thanks a lot
NEVER run the fogger with plants in the room, you will absolutely fry every leaf in the room. I use 100% pure cedar oil, i miz 1 oz per liter and spray the top layer of the soil (enough to soak MAYBE 1/2 inch of soil) and around the base of the pots. they really really hate the stuff, and from what we have noticed they die on contact.
^^^^yes. I would do a full area spray with Cedar Oil [I use Cedarcide PCO Choice]. Also spray containers incl bottoms. I have burned plants, some severely with Cedarcide root drenches. Now, if I were to drench plants with it, I'd use no more than 1/2 Tbl/gal. It's great stuff for killing things, incl eggs, in soil before planting. For that I'd use 2 oz/gal, followed in 2 days with a thorough pH'd water flush, then transplant.
Area sprays, incl fogging the room, work wonders for running their sorry asses out of your room. Or they can stay and be disoriented to the point of not eating, starving, not giving birth, etc. Good luck. -granger
Area sprays, incl fogging the room, work wonders for running their sorry asses out of your room. Or they can stay and be disoriented to the point of not eating, starving, not giving birth, etc. Good luck. -granger
Here I am, back in the R/A reading section,, again,,,, sigh,,,,
I've had success using nothing more than 120 deg. F rinse in rockwool cubes.
it is a MAJOR PITA with much more than 12 or 15 plants - and must be repeated SEVERAL times.
Hot water may not be helpful with biological agents, but generally not as damaging to some micro organisms as it is to bugs. My research seems to point to 105 minimum temperature in the entire root zone - 120 going in, I could generally get over 115 on the bottom of a 6 in sq cube with 1/2 gallon flush.
Microwave each block after harvest to ensure sterile media.
I have seen what 100 deg air temps did to plants, and was convinced 120 over the roots would be even more stressful - so I started lower and graduated my way up. if plants are severely infected - they may not survive the treatment, but most recover with no signs of stress.
Just another weapon for the chemically reluctant.
Met-52 is an excellent biological that works but needs a SERIOUS wetting agent - but requires time and multiple applications.
Imid - if my chemistry is close - it is nicotine base - now synthesized but same chemical family. - makes ya wana light up a fat ol Cuban cigar huh? -
Isn't it amazing the number of insecticides that are derived from nicotine -
If anything, the underlying thought - even with effective treatments is "Rinse n repeat"
Shine on all!
edit - wooooo post no 1600
I've had success using nothing more than 120 deg. F rinse in rockwool cubes.
it is a MAJOR PITA with much more than 12 or 15 plants - and must be repeated SEVERAL times.
Hot water may not be helpful with biological agents, but generally not as damaging to some micro organisms as it is to bugs. My research seems to point to 105 minimum temperature in the entire root zone - 120 going in, I could generally get over 115 on the bottom of a 6 in sq cube with 1/2 gallon flush.
Microwave each block after harvest to ensure sterile media.
I have seen what 100 deg air temps did to plants, and was convinced 120 over the roots would be even more stressful - so I started lower and graduated my way up. if plants are severely infected - they may not survive the treatment, but most recover with no signs of stress.
Just another weapon for the chemically reluctant.
Met-52 is an excellent biological that works but needs a SERIOUS wetting agent - but requires time and multiple applications.
Imid - if my chemistry is close - it is nicotine base - now synthesized but same chemical family. - makes ya wana light up a fat ol Cuban cigar huh? -
Isn't it amazing the number of insecticides that are derived from nicotine -
If anything, the underlying thought - even with effective treatments is "Rinse n repeat"
Shine on all!
edit - wooooo post no 1600
sorry to hear about your troubles man... I dont have much experience with hydro, only a single bubble bucket, and one Ebb n' Flo table under my belt, but treating for pest should be generally the same process.
Not sure where you are in the cycle, but there are definitely options. if your considering Imid, i would give Acephate, gamma-chyalothrin (pyrethroid baised), or evergreen first. all three of those have much shorter half lifes than Imid in growing media. Also try spraying down your room (NOT PLANTS) with cedar oil.
Ive battled them in soil, almost 2 years ago now, and havent seen a single one since. My threads on here somewhere.
Good luck friend,
Dabsnob
Not sure where you are in the cycle, but there are definitely options. if your considering Imid, i would give Acephate, gamma-chyalothrin (pyrethroid baised), or evergreen first. all three of those have much shorter half lifes than Imid in growing media. Also try spraying down your room (NOT PLANTS) with cedar oil.
Ive battled them in soil, almost 2 years ago now, and havent seen a single one since. My threads on here somewhere.
Good luck friend,
Dabsnob
Bongstar420
Member
Nematodes and Fungus Gnats
My room has RA problems, but the RA levels are incredibly low...I do have Daggar Nematodes though. They are easily found in the hundreds. Control of them is difficult because they eat compost and fresh root. The nematodes can come from anything that was sitting near the ground outside. They live pretty much like worms and migrate substantially (Daggar Nematodes that is).
Neem does work...it is a good suppressant. It must be formulated correctly or it will be immobilized without effect. Simple emulsions won't do.
I got strong activity with about 3ml/l after a nemacide application. My mix was with multiple things not intended to cause much kill which doubles over into the mite control program. I have something else for that coming in a few days. Root growth did not come back till both Nematode and RA were suppressed.
My room has RA problems, but the RA levels are incredibly low...I do have Daggar Nematodes though. They are easily found in the hundreds. Control of them is difficult because they eat compost and fresh root. The nematodes can come from anything that was sitting near the ground outside. They live pretty much like worms and migrate substantially (Daggar Nematodes that is).
Neem does work...it is a good suppressant. It must be formulated correctly or it will be immobilized without effect. Simple emulsions won't do.
I got strong activity with about 3ml/l after a nemacide application. My mix was with multiple things not intended to cause much kill which doubles over into the mite control program. I have something else for that coming in a few days. Root growth did not come back till both Nematode and RA were suppressed.
How'd you ID the daggar nematodes? Every time I mic my roots or media I see nematodes but can't ID them as my stereoscope isn't powerful enough to see if there is a stylet piercing the roots or if they are simply free living w no stylet.
Any new info on this subject?... bump!
not from me...i am still using it and haven't had RA since. i also add neem cake to my soil when i can get it.
although i had a large 5 litre container of neem oil i found that it degraded over time and became less effective. i now buy smaller 1 litre bottles and replace more often...
good luck
So you are saying they were eradicated and not just controlled, did you continue flowering all your plants outdoors?
haven't seem a RA since...and yes i veg indoors and flower outdoors...
