Systemic Miticide

BongToke · Aug 28, 2012

So like the title says I need a systemic miticide that doesnt last longer than 30 days and will knock my mite problem back,waay back.

I'm at day 25 of flower on a 63 day strain so I need something relatively safe I dont want it to effect the herb at all, does something like this even exist?

I used azamax as a soil drench but it dam expense used a whole bottle for 50 gals and it doest seem to have done much at all.

The reason I want a systemic is because Ive got quite a few plants and spraying the undersides of the leafs would be a huge job.Anything that fits the bill come to mind?

any suggestions are greatly appreciated

medicalmj · Aug 28, 2012

You got 2 spotted spiders? Or something else?

As far as systemics at this stage, I'd be leary, but... Imid (bayer fruit, citrus tree & veggie) might work on mites and has a 21 day to harvest. The tobacco industry uses it heavily.

If i got hit with spiders I think I'd first use mighty wash, then spinosad then the essential oils about 5 days apart. then do it agin if needed.

As far as the chore of gettin all those leaves ... had a grower tell me he buys new paint guns, like the ones for spraying cars, and uses essential oils like sns 217 or Ed's zero tolerance(Luckily haven't had to try, yet) and hooks er up to a compressor. Says it not only saves huge $$ over pump spayers and atomizers if your doin a big room but it also puts a mist everywhere and its real ez to get undersides.

If ya had the cash Pylon is the best. It's a translaminar not systemic, which would achieve your goals. At $450 a quart howver...

Hydrolized · Aug 29, 2012

When I had mites I used a mix of the "big two" 1 week into flowering...Forbid 4F systemic and Floramite trans-laminar...never ever saw them again.

BongToke · Aug 29, 2012

ye Im almost at week 4 now so harsh stuff is outta the question.

this is hands down the worst mite problem ive ever had these are freakin super mites guaranteed the azamax soil drench did not do a thing waste of money nothing seems to touch em.I still would like to find something that I could water with as a preventative at the begining of veg

I got some botanics spray im going to use to keep em at bay hopefully till I chop then its extreme clean gotta wipe these fuckers OUT

BongToke · Aug 29, 2012

medicalmj said:
You got 2 spotted spiders? Or something else?

As far as systemics at this stage, I'd be leary, but... Imid (bayer fruit, citrus tree & veggie) might work on mites and has a 21 day to harvest. The tobacco industry uses it heavily.

If i got hit with spiders I think I'd first use mighty wash, then spinosad then the essential oils about 5 days apart. then do it agin if needed.

As far as the chore of gettin all those leaves ... had a grower tell me he buys new paint guns, like the ones for spraying cars, and uses essential oils like sns 217 or Ed's zero tolerance(Luckily haven't had to try, yet) and hooks er up to a compressor. Says it not only saves huge $$ over pump spayers and atomizers if your doin a big room but it also puts a mist everywhere and its real ez to get undersides.

If ya had the cash Pylon is the best. It's a translaminar not systemic, which would achieve your goals. At $450 a quart howver...

I think there two spotted ;two black spots on there back? looks like some dont tho

medicalmj · Aug 29, 2012

Defintely some super mites out there. Probably a result of other growers only using one mode of action over and over and over....

Give Mighty Wash, Dead Bug Brew, and essential oils (SNS217 or Zero Tolerance) a shot. That Mighty Wash is pretty good shit, you'd be suprised and hopefully they're not resistant to it. Good luck!

supermanlives · Aug 29, 2012

azamax works but dont kill anything instantly . they hang around and slowly die.

purple_man · Aug 29, 2012

high bro!

check out: dimethoat (active compound), availible as: roxion s from celaflor or neudorf and many others by diferent brandnames, ... the waiting period for decomposition of the dimethoat is 23/24 days (rather wait 30 days to be sure), ... worked fine for me (750 µl per litre if you use a 500g/l stock solution).

and yeah IF you gonna use it or other systemics, please remove all damaged foliage prior to using (so that the spider mites wont have a retreat area, which can't suck up enough for it to be effective), AND don't use it more than 2 times in a row to prevent resistance development in the spider mites population (best use a 2nd systemic in rotation or go for other insecticides, like pyrethroids, neem oils or even neonicotinoids...)

good luck, n give them hell brovi

blessss

GeorgeSmiley · Aug 29, 2012

BongToke said:
So like the title says I need a systemic miticide that doesnt last longer than 30 days and will knock my mite problem back,waay back.

I'm at day 25 of flower on a 63 day strain so I need something relatively safe I dont want it to effect the herb at all, does something like this even exist?

I used azamax as a soil drench but it dam expense used a whole bottle for 50 gals and it doest seem to have done much at all.

The reason I want a systemic is because Ive got quite a few plants and spraying the undersides of the leafs would be a huge job.Anything that fits the bill come to mind?

any suggestions are greatly appreciated

I see you mentioning drenches to combat spider mites, although there are miticides that are systemic, none of them move through the xylem in a way that makes them drenchable sytemic through the roots to combat spider mites on the leaves...... systemic miticides, as a rule, dont work that way.

except Kontos but its more a preventative systemic

Kontos™: The First Systemic Miticide
Twospotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae is one of the most destructive mite pests of
greenhouse-grown crops, and can become resistant to commercially-available miticides within
a short period of time if miticides are not rotated properly based on mode of action. The
miticides used by greenhouse producers to deal with twospotted spider mite populations have
either contact or translaminar activity.

Contact miticides include acequinocyl (Shuttle),
fenbutatin-oxide (ProMite), clofentezine (Ovation), hexythiazox (Hexygon), pyridaben
(Sanmite), bifenazate (Floramite), and fenpyroximate (Akari).

Those miticides with translaminar activity are abamectin (Avid), chlorfenapyr (Pylon),
spiromesifen (Judo), and etoxazole (TetraSan).

However, there has never been available a
truly systemic miticide. Well, this has changed with the introduction of KontosTM, which is
registered for use in greenhouses, nurseries, and interiorscapes. The product is labeled for
“control” of spider mites, aphids, leafhoppers, mealybugs, and whiteflies. The active
ingredient is spirotetramat (22.4% AI) and the mode of action is a lipid biosynthesis inhibitor
(Mode of Action Group No. 23). The restricted entry interval (REI) is 24 hours

KontosTM is formulated as a soluble concentrate (SC) and is labeled for use on vegetable
transplants. KontosTM is a fully-systemic miticide and according to the label, the active
ingredient moves through the xylem (water-conducting) and phloem (food-conducting) tissues
with the active ingredient residing in new shoots and leaves. It is primarily active via ingestion
and may potentially reduce the fecundity (the rate at which a female produces ovaries) of
certain insect and mite females.

For management of twospotted spider
mite it is important to apply the product preventatively or when populations are first detected
since KontosTM will not “control” or reduce heavy populations of twospotted spider mite.

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/FloriBytes0509_1-pest_mngmt.pdf

GS

Ichabod Crane · Aug 29, 2012

If you have a enclosed grow use no pest strips. Get a fan and set one on it in your grow over night. You will need to close your ventilation so it can build up. Let it set there as long as you can but ventilate before you reenter.

growshopfrank · Aug 29, 2012

any spinosad based product should work for you

BongToke · Aug 29, 2012

medicalmj said:
Defintely some super mites out there. Probably a result of other growers only using one mode of action over and over and over....

Give Mighty Wash, Dead Bug Brew, and essential oils (SNS217 or Zero Tolerance) a shot. That Mighty Wash is pretty good shit, you'd be suprised and hopefully they're not resistant to it. Good luck!

yea ive heard alot about mighty wash but isnt it expense and comes already diluted Ive got 110 plants iunder 4kw so I would need alot of mighty wash its a contact killer right?maybe ill get some to prevent them taking over the nugs and just spray it were I see mites cuz gettin the underside of all leaves inst an option.
Ill look into the SNS217 is it just essential oils?

BongToke · Aug 29, 2012

supermanlives said:
azamax works but dont kill anything instantly . they hang around and slowly die.

hopefully it knocks em back I have seen a few dead ones but I think that the person I got these super mites from uses azamax so they might be immune

purple_man said:
high bro!

check out: dimethoat (active compound), availible as: roxion s from celaflor or neudorf and many others by diferent brandnames, ... the waiting period for decomposition of the dimethoat is 23/24 days (rather wait 30 days to be sure), ... worked fine for me (750 µl per litre if you use a 500g/l stock solution).

and yeah IF you gonna use it or other systemics, please remove all damaged foliage prior to using (so that the spider mites wont have a retreat area, which can't suck up enough for it to be effective), AND don't use it more than 2 times in a row to prevent resistance development in the spider mites population (best use a 2nd systemic in rotation or go for other insecticides, like pyrethroids, neem oils or even neonicotinoids...)

good luck, n give them hell brovi
blessss

Ill look into those,thanks

GeorgeSmiley said:
I see you mentioning drenches to combat spider mites, although there are miticides that are systemic, none of them move through the xylem in a way that makes them drenchable sytemic through the roots to combat spider mites on the leaves...... systemic miticides, as a rule, dont work that way.

except Kontos but its more a preventative systemic

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/FloriBytes0509_1-pest_mngmt.pdf

GS

so I possibly just wasted over 100 dollar on that soil drench? I would of thought it would go into the plants.

I'm wary of anything that says its ok for nuts and fruit because there assuming it gets washed off I dono given enough time Im sure there mostly ok who knows what it does when you smoke it though.used early enough Im sure most shit is fine in the end

Ichabod Crane said:
If you have a enclosed grow use no pest strips. Get a fan and set one on it in your grow over night. You will need to close your ventilation so it can build up. Let it set there as long as you can but ventilate before you reenter.

nah my room has cracks and stuff doubt the pest strip will work although dont have much to lose by trying. Is it a residual? will it affect the smoke at all?

growshopfrank said:
any spinosad based product should work for you

Is it essential oils like SNS217?

BongToke · Aug 29, 2012

spinosad sounds cool its like a bacteria or something seems like a good idea does it affect flavor at all not too worried about toxicity seems pretty safe.

does it work well ?

medicalmj · Aug 29, 2012

Spinosad (Dead Bug Brew) works great although its not a contact i think they ingest and then die.

SNS 217 is just rosemary oil (for our purposes essemtial oils are derived from herbs like rosemary, cloves, thyme etc), while Zero Tolerance is a combo of that stuff. All essential oils will be very expensive that's why some people get the paint gun sprayer (like for painting cars) and hook up to a compressor. You'll use way less and it make it much easier to get a mist everywhere. Not sure if the pressure would effect the mighty wash negatively. You're looking at up to $100 for the essential oils depending which one (SNS 217 is prob most $) and about $50 for the mighty wash. And Spinosad is like free in comparison.

SunSimulator · Aug 29, 2012

Spinosad I have heard a lot about this lately .. But if i have pest i mix with alcohol and water . u can do different ratio's 1 part alcohol to 2 parts water .. or 1 :1 or 1 : 3

Ichabod Crane · Aug 29, 2012

BongToke said:
nah my room has cracks and stuff doubt the pest strip will work although dont have much to lose by trying. Is it a residual? will it affect the smoke at all?

I have had no complaints with it. But if your room is not sealed It may not work as it has to build up in the area for it to be effective.

BongToke · Aug 30, 2012

I might give em a try these being super mites tho I doubt they will work.

gunna wait till all the planst are gone clean everything with bleachy water THEN floramite all the surfaces and dip each clone in floramite b4 they go into the room.

Whats better avid or floramite?

yerboyblue · Aug 30, 2012

I've been treating my plants by watering in Acephate (Orthene) to treat root aphids. I had an early infestation of spider mites in my veg area. I treated the veg area for root aphids and decided to spray for the spider mites a week later or so, but when I checked for mites a week later, they were gone. I haven't gotten mites back since treating with Acephate, and I have no filter on my veg room intake right now.
Acephate also has a much smaller half life than Imid so smaller amounts will be present at the end. I have used it 2 weeks before cutting down (granted it was a small dose) with no noticable negatives. Acephate is most likely going to be hard to find if you go that route tho.

Ichabod Crane · Aug 30, 2012

You can get the orthene here.

http://www.pestrong.com/567-orthene-97-wp-turf-tree-ornamental-1can-773lb.html

Systemic Miticide

Member

Active member

Member

Member

Member

Active member

Active member

Well-known member

Remembers

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Member

Member

Active member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Member

Well-known member