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Yield increasing planting method

neongreen

Active member
Veteran
My attempted layer didn't take last year. The main stem forced it's way up and out of the ground before the roots could take.

This year I tried with my Blowfish clone and made double sure it couldn't spring back up, by covering the layer with an extra rock (directly above the layer), as well as pinning it down with a skewer held down with two more rocks. I think using clonex also helped to ensure it rooted quickly, before the main stem had enough strength to spring back up.

It seems to have worked!

Here she is, roots on the left in the first pic. Pics taken close to the start of June, a few days after planting in the ground/layering.
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One month later:
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12 days more (mid Jul):
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mushroombrew

Active member
Veteran
This is a Bonsai technique used to make a "forest"
The only thing I am not sure about is the application of a good bit of hormone.
It is systemic and can be toxic.

But the method certainly will work!
 

yahooman

Well-known member
its just as sffective to simply bend the plant and anchor at the bend.....then top shoots into a huge bush....
 

budchopper

Active member
KC Mango

KC Mango

Yes it could BlueberryNutz, In fact, when I keep a mother plant, which is seldom, that is how I keep it simply because it provides so many more cutting locations. I have a 3 gallon tub that I use. Works great

Hey budchopper, I like KC brains work a lot. Hes one of the best breeders around in my view.. I wish he would spend more time with seed selection, his operation falls apart over that one issue. Its rare however, that I don't grow something from KC. His breeding skills are top notch. Mango is very good.

No, I don't believe it delays maturation and in fact just the opposite. I believe they may actually mature a few days earlier and if a clone is buried, that was taken from the current year seedlings and not from an over wintered mother, it will actually finish more than a week earlier than the plant that provided the clone. I don't know why any of that is happening, maybe someone who has knowledge about that will chime in. It could be a root binding effect that occurs. Often i will grow in a location in which the soil is poor and rocky. I will bury a 5 gallon bucket with holes punced in it and then plant.
These plants in buckets ALWAYS finish sooner. Just guessing, this may be a similar effect, but no way to know for sure

well it speeds maturity when 5 gal pail gets root bound.
and yes Mango is great but takes longer to finish than it says.
also did not stay potent for a long time so proper storage is mandatory..
.
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
All the spots I worked ya gotta get off the ground, yet stay hidden under the height of surrounding shrubs. Disease can splash up when the ground is close to growth, due to rain.

It's a compromise between as much light as possible, and concealment. Too low and not enough light, too tall and the cola shines for a long way.
 

Junk

Member
Wouldn't it be quicker just to top the plant several times? Or train it horizontally in the first place? This is a poor picture but conveys the idea...

I understand more roots = larger plants, but the plant grows roots at a pretty steady pace. I think they would go faster by not interrupting them. And if you need more growth, you just plant more plants? In a given time frame, you grow twice the roots with two plants than you do with 1 etc.

I also understand the horizontal planting idea. But root growth is very fast w/o messing with it. Given that growth above = growth below, I would think I could fill a root zone just as fast just topping the plant.
I've never closely examined it. But I think root growth is a zero sum game, for lack of a better expression.

And if you want developed roots from the jump, you could just regenerate the plants? But I've done that a couple times and when you consider the time it takes vs. yield, you would have been just as well off starting from seed or clone.

You are wanting a higher yield right? So you are growing more roots to get there. Growth above = growth below. I get it. But you just hacked off half the plant? You are halfing your growth, and then replanting to achieve it? That seems illogical.

I'm not trying to be a jerk. I hope it's not coming off that way. I'm just not sure I get it...
 

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NENugger

Well-known member
neongreen- I wish. No that is the same plant.

I have been keeping them low by training, almost like a grape vine except lower.

Here is same plant last week

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Try a raised bed shaped like a doughnut. With a tarp in the middle to catch/add rain water. Plants are placed around the doughnut. The tarp has a tiny pin prick in the bottom to slowly leak out the water. The doughnut is usually covered with branches and sticks to keep large critters out and hide the tarp and doughnut.
 
and a 10gal bucket in the middle of the doughnut with little holes at the sides of the bottom. yeah sounds nice, but much work also..
 

Tipunch

Member
Bump and tribune to A great guy :tiphat: very interesting thread as I've been growing tomatoes for A long time too, Will try next year for sure.

Anyone tried just bending opposite branches instead of cutting them? Any other pics someone wants to share so we keep this thread alive?

Peace.
 

Guerrigliero

New member
that's a great technique, very interesting!
being a beginner, i know only a lot of theory but i don't have enough experience to practically understand what i can expect in terms of plant size.

for example: a large sativa, that in normal conditions would grow 3 meters tall (almost 10 feet), how tall would be if grown with the technique explained in this thread?
i know there are many variables involved but, as another user developed a math formula to calculate theoretical yeald, is it possible to do the same with plant height?
that would be great to have an idea of how stealth the plant would (or would NOT) be :D

also, is it safe to top/fim/mainline the branches to amke them even shorter? in some previous posts i've read it's better to avoid topping. why?

thanks in advance for the answers, i have a lot to learn from you experienced guys
 

CowboyTed

Member
Hmmm . . . for some reason my photos aren't displaying in my earlier post. I'd go back and try uploading them differently, but apparently new users here can't edit their posts.

If a moderator wants to delete my post, I can try again later. The post is mostly useless without the photos showing.
 

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