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A Taste of Africa from Malawi

This'n here is spitting 3 branches outta almost every node, except where I chopped it
 

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Artistick Seeds

Active member
Malawi from 2012, it’s been a long time since I grew it, but one of my favorites. Big yield, despite pots of 3.5 liters only, under 600W. A lot of resin that comes off easily, perfect for a dry hash. The high was just wonderful, with a lot of laughter. Sorry for the poor quality of pictures
 

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FeelHaze

Well-known member
I wanted to have some advices on my Malawi grow.

We are at day 51 in the flowering stage (12/12).
I've been having a hard time figuring out feeding with that specific plant.
For a couple weeks, it has been showing slight yellowing from the top and burned leaf tips. Also, the tops are foxtailing quite a bit, which doesn't bother me, but I'm asking myself if its a genetic trait or a light stress/too much N issue.

Plant is grown organically in soil. I did feed 1/4 dose of activated silica during the stretch and I also started to give half doses of organic bloom booster weekly since the end of week 5.

Light is a SpiderFarmer SF2000 and its 20 inches away from the top. I read 610 PPFD at the top.

Temps during the day are around 24 celcius and RH 50%.

Her sisters (Panama and Killer A5 Haze) have none of these symptoms.

Overfeeding ?
Too much N ?
Light stress ?
PH ?

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Nextgeneration73

Well-known member
I wanted to have some advices on my Malawi grow.

We are at day 51 in the flowering stage (12/12).
I've been having a hard time figuring out feeding with that specific plant.
For a couple weeks, it has been showing slight yellowing from the top and burned leaf tips. Also, the tops are foxtailing quite a bit, which doesn't bother me, but I'm asking myself if its a genetic trait or a light stress/too much N issue.

Plant is grown organically in soil. I did feed 1/4 dose of activated silica during the stretch and I also started to give half doses of organic bloom booster weekly since the end of week 5.

Light is a SpiderFarmer SF2000 and its 20 inches away from the top. I read 610 PPFD at the top.

Temps during the day are around 24 celcius and RH 50%.

Her sisters (Panama and Killer A5 Haze) have none of these symptoms.

Overfeeding ?
Too much N ?
Light stress ?
PH ?

View attachment 18992482 View attachment 18992483
I don't know man, I have the same concern myself, you can check out my pics as well.... Yours still look okay with the burned tips....
 

dubi

ACE Seeds Breeder
Vendor
Veteran
Malawi from 2012, it’s been a long time since I grew it, but one of my favorites. Big yield, despite pots of 3.5 liters only, under 600W. A lot of resin that comes off easily, perfect for a dry hash. The high was just wonderful, with a lot of laughter. Sorry for the poor quality of pictures

Very well grown indoors, @ArtistickSeeds! Thanks for your contribution. I'm glad the finished product was resinous, potent, and made you laugh a lot :D. Was it the regular or feminized version from back then?
 

dubi

ACE Seeds Breeder
Vendor
Veteran
I wanted to have some advices on my Malawi grow.

We are at day 51 in the flowering stage (12/12).
I've been having a hard time figuring out feeding with that specific plant.
For a couple weeks, it has been showing slight yellowing from the top and burned leaf tips. Also, the tops are foxtailing quite a bit, which doesn't bother me, but I'm asking myself if its a genetic trait or a light stress/too much N issue.

Plant is grown organically in soil. I did feed 1/4 dose of activated silica during the stretch and I also started to give half doses of organic bloom booster weekly since the end of week 5.

Light is a SpiderFarmer SF2000 and its 20 inches away from the top. I read 610 PPFD at the top.

Temps during the day are around 24 celcius and RH 50%.

Her sisters (Panama and Killer A5 Haze) have none of these symptoms.

Overfeeding ?
Too much N ?
Light stress ?
PH ?

View attachment 18992482 View attachment 18992483

Hi @FeelHaze What's the growing media ? And ph and ec in your watering and feedings ? These two variables are where you should focus your attention, the rest of the variables seem fine.
 

Zanddar

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hi FeelHaze

That's normal if you're feeding full strength noots. You can dilute the noots by about a 3rd and it should improve. Or you can alternate a straight water day and feed day, until you find what works. Organics are a bit more forgiving, but you will definitely have to go on straight water later in flower.

I use an organic tea and no other additives. In veg they can be fed full strength, but in late flower it is mostly just water for about 3 weeks or until finish. I watch how much the plant is pushing out new pistils to determine when it goes on straight water. When growth slows it's time for only water. This is my feeding regiment for any plant I grow. Pretty simple and basic needs. Hope this helps.
 

FeelHaze

Well-known member
Hi @FeelHaze What's the growing media ? And ph and ec in your watering and feedings ? These two variables are where you should focus your attention, the rest of the variables seem fine.

I'm growing in organic soil. Its a mixture of peat moss, coco fibers and compost. The NPK ratio of the mixture is 0.11-0.07-0.06. Bloom formula is Bio Flores by Biocanna, NPK 2-2-5. I use half concentration, one out of two watering.

I used to mostly grow hybrids and sativa hybrids in the past. The only pure/nearly pure sativas I had were Durban Poison and Chocolope. Those were fast flowering (9-10 weeks) so it wasn't an issue to keep them healthy for a long time.

Problem is I never tested PH and EC growing those fast flowering strains organically. Learning how to do that will be the next step on my journey as I realise how important it is to keep those pure sativas healthy since the longer flowering time.

Also, I hace Golden Tiger and Panama Haze coming next.

I'll do my homework, read on the subject and get the right equipment.

Thanks a lot for the advices @dubi
 
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FeelHaze

Well-known member
Hi FeelHaze

That's normal if you're feeding full strength noots. You can dilute the noots by about a 3rd and it should improve. Or you can alternate a straight water day and feed day, until you find what works. Organics are a bit more forgiving, but you will definitely have to go on straight water later in flower.

I use an organic tea and no other additives. In veg they can be fed full strength, but in late flower it is mostly just water for about 3 weeks or until finish. I watch how much the plant is pushing out new pistils to determine when it goes on straight water. When growth slows it's time for only water. This is my feeding regiment for any plant I grow. Pretty simple and basic needs. Hope this helps.

These are good advices @Zanddar !

I was already feeding at half strenght, alternating with straight water.

I stoped feeding 10 days ago because of the symptoms and I've she's been on straight water since. Would you keep going on with straight water ?

I'm a bit worry about the plants lacking P and K. The girl is still shooting pistils like crazy and might need it.

I also need to learn to ajust EC and PH as Dubi pointed out. Next step on my journey.
 

Artistick Seeds

Active member
Very well grown indoors, @ArtistickSeeds! Thanks for your contribution. I'm glad the finished product was resinous, potent, and made you laugh a lot :D. Was it the regular or feminized version from back then?
Hi, it was regular seeds. Maybe I'll try feminized an other time, but it was already potent enough for me and my friends. But potent wasn't the point, the quality of the high was great.
Of your strains, I only tested PCK, Bangi Haze, PCKxBubba , China Yunnan and Golden Tigger. Malawi remains my favorite for the high. Not for the taste though, I prefer PCK and China Yunnan.
Thank you for your work, sharing your knowledge and bringing genetics to the cannabis world.
 
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