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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Tom Hill

Active member
Veteran
Legal,, pffff, come-on, of course it is :D. But we are all little ants crawling around for a single moment on a marble. Next year will be a good one, mark my words, grow for it!.....

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Cheers to all - Tom


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ESCOknows

Member
For the past 4 years my buddy and I have used a local "base" mix from a place right off the 101 right b4 ukiah, heading south its on the left.... lots of peeps in the area use them, and have good results, its not hot... last time i grew up there we pickd up 60yds, im space'n on the prices though??? i know for a fact it was well under a grand.
our plants were healthy as f@CK from beg-end with some in the 5's with 100gallon bags.we also always start off with a pallet of FFOF for starts.

btw TOM HILL u da man.
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
This year used strait Sunshine Mix#4 in trenches 3wide x 3ft deep & watered in the FNova + CalMag & Flora-Licious+ as base nutes , with very passable results & great yields .

Now to ammend this with some tilled in organics for next yrs round ...Sunshine Mix being a peat based + aggragate sterile medium , was easy the first year to work with . Thanks for the tips Mr Tom .
 

Seed Buyer

Member
Hey all you nor cal growers.....with Obama's new "back off medical growers" stance do you think yall will have less problems w/ programs like CAMP and others. I mean are local agencies flying over to bust gardens or are those all federal programs that will stop next year?

Tom Hill....very inspiring!
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
the feds will still be going after anybody who breaks state law. it has also been made clear this season that they will be using diversion of water from public land as a major point of enforcement. There is a very telling press conference with the task force that carried out this year's big raids a couple of weeks ago. You can find a link to it in one of Payaso's posts. Its the single most important bit of intel you will digest this year when trying to come to an understanding of how to manage risk as a grower in northern cali.

until the beer and liquor companies, and/or pharmcos tell the white house how legalization/licensing/taxation is going to happen, the nature of federal enforcement in norcal is not going to change much in nature from this year to next JUST AS it did not change much in nature from last year to this. as far as I can tell from my research and ongoing tracking of the data.

The reality is this... most of the county, state and federal joint enforcement operations of the last 4 years has focused on grows that were illegal before Obama's presidency and continue to be illegal. Again, they are generally of extremely large ops (100s to 1000s to 10s of 1000s of plants), often run by foreign cartels, often diverting water from public sources, often illegally using public and privately held (logging companies) land.

There is also the occaisional bust that reports having happened after two years of federal investigation and nets an organized group of growers in a specific area that involves lots of seized property, cars, hudreds of thousands or millions in laundered money, and a bunch of conspiracy charges. These happen at the rate of one a year, but its easy not to be a target for this kind of thing. Don't get involved in criminal conspiracies.

And then there are the random unfortunates that get caught up in a bust because they are next door to a huge grow that gets raided and the plant numbers are a few over the State or County limits. (again, we're talking federal and joint enforcement)

What I am saying is that the Obabma "guidelines" are nothing but PR. Basically a bone thrown to the progressives who, a year in, are starting to wonder who the fuck this brother with the nice smile really is. He certainly is not a progressive, but he does know how to play the card and when to play it. I do not believe that many norcal growers will be adjusting their exposure based on this bit of information coming out of the White House. There will, however, always be some fools who will completely misinterpret the information and think its time to rock out with the cock out.

If the 2010 budgets or operating plans of any of the programs you are talking about are reduced based on the announcements of these guidelines I will be very surprised.

This discussion probably belongs in its own thread. Its a totally valid question, but lets not get too far away from the original intent of this thread. I know people are very much interested in the soil mix they will be growing next year's ten pound monsters in... sorry for the hijack.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
For the past 4 years my buddy and I has used a local "base" mix from a place right off the 101 right b4 ukiah, heading south its on the left.... lots of peeps in the area use them, and have good results, its not hot... last time i grew up there we pickd up 60yds, im space'n on the prices though??? i know for a fact it was well under a grand.
our plants were healthy as f@CK from beg-end with some in the 5's with 100gallon bags.we also always start off with a pallet of FFOF for starts.

btw TOM HILL u da man.

good info, Esco. I am going to try to find these guys. Did you ammend? What did you feed? Pls clarify what you mean by "right before Ukiah" or any other info you have. PM me if you are more comfortable.

Thanks.
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
.... I had very high pH water source (8+) so I used Earth Juice grow/cat at the rate of aprox 1/4 tsp per gal on every watering to lower irrigation pH to 6.5. Folk who have no H2O pH issues, use plain water in this mix with excellent results. Also, If my H2O pH was closer to 7, I might go 50/50 gypsum/lime instead of straight gypsum.

Folks who are checking out the numbers on this mix will no doubt note that it is high in Calcium.
....

hi Tom, thanks for this thread. most of my efforts growing weed are put into building good, rich organic soil to grow my plants in.

i wanted to ask about the above comment - what difference does gypsum bring to the mix rather than lime - do you mean dolomite lime or regular lime ? does gypsum buffer the mix less than lime?

also i have some of your DC seeds and grow with a moduar scrog method (link in my sig)
how much does DC stretch when flipped to flower? im guessing not much. i tend to repot when i flip to 12/12 and find this usually encourages stretch.

many thanks, i hope to post some pics here on your forum when i get the DC going :)

V.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
I see some of the Humboldt growers are trying something new with oyster shells. They say the results are amazing. What I was told is your bottom layer in your container is 1-2inches of pearlite. Into the pearlite you mix a small amount of ground oyster shell, like a few tablespoons for a 3 gallon pot. fill the pot with your regular growing medium and grow as usual. The buds I saw (headband) grown this way were 20-30% bigger and solid. They were resinous as hell, but headband usually is anyway. Im doing a control test run now.
 

nvthis

Member
Hmm.. That sounds kind of strange. Don't oyster shell, even finely ground, take a while to decompose enough to even be useful to plants? I thought maybe this was something in the lines of extra calcium or something? Maybe it's something else then?
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
I see some of the Humboldt growers are trying something new with oyster shells. They say the results are amazing. What I was told is your bottom layer in your container is 1-2inches of pearlite. Into the pearlite you mix a small amount of ground oyster shell, like a few tablespoons for a 3 gallon pot. fill the pot with your regular growing medium and grow as usual. The buds I saw (headband) grown this way were 20-30% bigger and solid. They were resinous as hell, but headband usually is anyway. Im doing a control test run now.

interesting. i look forward to hearing about your findings. going to start a thread? more info on how your control test run is structured.
 
J

Jenn

Hello Tom

It seems all outdoor grows face more difficult challenges than indoor grows. Looking at your pictures and seeing the size of your plants makes me wonder if their is anything you do in paticular to combat mildew and mold.

~ Jenn
 

Tom Hill

Active member
Veteran
Hi folks,

An old post - a quote from "Hemp diseases and pests" and a book recommendation..

I believe this was written by Bart Hall in an excellent intro to the basics of soil balancing. Search "William Albrecht" for more.

"In most cases, correcting for low calcium will simultaneously correct for low pH (acid soil). A common error in conventional agriculture is to see low pH as the problem, rather than as a symptom of low calcium. With such an approach, calcium additions to the soil have tended to be incidental to limestone applications focused on correcting pH, rather than governed by the calcium/magnesium regime in the soil.
This is unfortunate, since calcium as a nutrient plays an important role in crop health and quality. Of particular interest to hemp producers is calcium's action in strengthening cell structure. This occurs both at the level of plant framework (fiber in this case) and at the level of cell chemistry. Adequate levels of available calcium significantly improve the strength of the pectin that is such an important component of plant cell walls.
Strengthening pectin with calcium is a chemical reaction independent of whether or not the pectin is part of a living plant or not. Anyone who has used soluble calcium to set the low-methoxy pectins used in making sugarless jams can attest to this fact. In living plants with abundant available calcium, pectin is much more robust. Among other things, it makes cell walls more resistant to the polygalacturonase enzyme used by most fungal germ tubes to break down plant defenses when attempting to exploit an infection court. In plain English that means that there is a greater chance that germinating fungal spores will dry out and die before they get into the plant and start to grow. In practical terms, the plant is more resistant to fungal diseases."


Folks, get this book on the coffee table please, it is a collection of all research to date kind of book & is absolutely outstanding.


Hi Jenn, the ^^ high Calcium soil mix mentioned previously is by design and with at least a partial eye to the ongoing fungi war, as is the ascorbic acid (not sure mentioned) added to the Brix Mix at 1/2 tsp per gal.

Gypsum brings Sulfur, and we want 1 part Sulfur for every 10 parts N and P I believe, notes not handy but that is close for maximum microbe activity. Back soon, missed a few good questions, look forward to a long thread here - let´s get some dirt under our fingernails :).

Big Love To All,

Tom
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
That must be why they are using the oyster shells in Humbolt. I used them this time too, and the plants are extra healthy.
 

ghost of sage

Active member
Hey Tom!

Hey Tom!

Legal,, pffff, come-on, of course it is :D. But we are all little ants crawling around for a single moment on a marble. Next year will be a good one, mark my words, grow for it!.....

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Cheers to all - Tom


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What I wouldnt give to be a young man again and come to work for you.Are any of these plants in this pic straight deep chunk?I just bought a few packs from the boo to do some crossing of my own as my dad says a good afghan is the backbone of any good breeding program to him.He was a grower from 1976 to about 87.He was the first man here in the south around our home to get seeds from the original seedbank.Back then he got a strain called oakland indica,do you know of this strain or anything about it or the make up?He used this to make some of his crosses and was known to get 4lbs. a hill back in the early 80's.Anyway,thanks for all your advice and the good breeding stock.AS an after thought can you tell me what I should look for to be my male breeder out of the deep chunk??
 
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