Pressing hash tips

I'm getting a fabricator to make a press plate for me was wondering if anyone had any tips for me to make my hash bricks like the old school hash or yester years any help is much appreciated

Heat Metal plates to 110 F.
Place material in cellophane bag that is precisely sealed without any air trapped inside.
Poke pinhole(s) in bottom as needed to allow more air to escape.
Before you reach full heat: Press slowly and surely on the hydraulic jack-handle until maximum resistance is reached.
I go up to 2000 PSI.
Press Time: 1 minute per gram with a 10 min. minimum.
If you press the bag while its too hot it may liquify into oil and blow out some sticky rosin-soaked drf sift like very wasteful play-dough machine.
I give it one last quick tap on the handle to square up the edges, which may be pliable due to heat, and pop it out of the die and into the freezer to cool off.
You get spicy brick hash imbued with layers of rosin pressed out of the sift with the same heat as the desert sun. Old-school.
Enjoy

Awesome thanks a lot for the help much appreciated

Check out "Frenchy Cannoli"

For quality pressing that is.

I'll check him out does he do larger scale or just small scale?

I have not seem him working beyond fifty g cannolis / temple balls.

I guess thats because quality > quanity, in order to get the right pressing working.
With over fifty g material, the process will greatly harden up and thus decrease the quality.

Watched his videos real on point he's got some really fine quality stuff thanks for pointing me in his direction

He has an interesting approach towards Hashish that is certain.

You can also check out strain hunters Morocco expedition for some scenes with traditionel pressing.

Great stuff found a few videos and think I have an idea of what I'm gunna do thanks a lot guys and anymore suggestions I'd love to hear them

I'm of the opinion that if you have to use tons of pressure and high temps to form your loose dry sifted resin into a hashish then there's way too much plant matter in there with the resin....unless you are making commercial grade hash that is and max weight and profit, not an intense high, is your aim.

Dry sift that contains more resin than broken plant matter will readily form a solid without presses and or heat.

If I press any resin (though usually I don't, I think dry sifted resin smokes and burns better when unpressed and is easier to use etc etc) I place a spoonful or two worth on my left palm and press and twist hard with my right hand thumb.....if it takes more than ten seconds to form it into a pliable putty, then there's too much contaminant (broken up plant matter).

Dry sifted resin that has a minimal amount of contaminant has an intense, bell ringing, ear warming, frontal cerebral elevated high, whereas dry sift from the same material that will not press into a form without heat and pressure will definitely have a duller, weaker, less satisfying high...the difference is chalk and cheese and as it's all about the high, why not take your time and produce pure dry sift?

I'm looking to make a really nice hash but don't have the time to process it to a super pure dry sift with the amount of product to process if I'm making personal I'd do it but my friends also have deadlines I gotta keep for them but thank for the I put 99% you make some good valid points

if it takes more than ten seconds to form it into a pliable putty, then there's too much contaminant (broken up plant matter).

Ten seconds is too long, one two or three seconds of twisting/pushing thumb pressure will make any decent quality loose dry sift into a flexible solid form.

Afghanhash - A simple and fast way to improve the purity of dry sifted resin made with maximum yields in mind is to re-sift the dry sift again and stop when 50% ~ 70% has passed through the re-sieving mesh. You can use the same mesh you used for the initial sifting run or use a slightly finer mesh and gently re-sift a few handfuls at a time (depending on the mesh area you have to work with). Resin heads being rounder and heavier will fall through the mesh at a greater rate initially than the lighter weight and odd shaped broken plant material...but the more the resin is re-sifted, a greater percentage of contaminant passes through, which is why you are best to stop when there's less resin and more contaminant coming through the re-sifting screen. You can also do the same process again with the purer resin that passes through the mesh, stopping once again when magnification tells you to stop.

Another way is to re-sift it with a mesh that is fine enough to not allow most of the resin heads to pass through, but with holes large enough so most of the fine contaminant passes through.For example if you used a 125 ~ 150 micron screen (or 120 ~ 140 US Mesh) when sifting the plant material, you can re-sift the resin over a 74 micron mesh (or 200 Mesh), but that takes time, effort and technique. For a faster result you can also re-sift with a mesh that has larger openings than the 74 micron/200 US Mesh, for example a 90 micron screen (or a 160 US Mesh) so the resin heads (and the contaminant) that ranges from 125 ~ 90 micron will be isolated on top of the screen and smaller resin heads and plant matter will pass through the mesh. The resin that remains on top of the mesh will be purer than before.

and there's lots of other methods too. The DSW 2 screen method, static sifting etc can also be used for re-sifting.


anyway, I still enjoy sift made with max yields in mind....even dry sift which has lots of plant matter in it will still contain more THC than the bud and trim it came from.

Here's a link to a mesh chart comparing US Mesh with micron mesh

http://www.showmegold.org/news/Mesh.htm

Happy Hashing

thnx for the tips!

Thanks 99% I really appreciate you taking the time to write that up for everyone to read looks like I may have to look into the dry sift with the amount we will have to run we considering using brand new washing machines and bubble bags just due to volume I did see a giant tumbler online for like 4 or 5 grand I think which is crazy but if it's well made product I'm sure it's worth the investment

Hey Afghanhash...don't clap your hands in appreciation, throw chunks of hash at me!

4 or 5 grand is crazy money and ice water hashing will do the job, but for personal use, I prefer a bowl of nice dry sift.

You don't really need a giant sized tumbler, you can use a large window insect screen* for the initial sift, then process the resulting sift in a standard sized tumbler or regular sized set of flat screens, I use the "Tumble Now" tumbler by Bubbleman and it works great and also have a set of four screen frames, also from Bman, that I use.

* make sure to scrub it with soap, water and a brush to clean it then dry thoroughly before use and set it up so it sits an inch or two above a glass table. Another way to sift large amounts of plant material is with a 160 micron 20 gallon Bubble bag. To prevent fly-away resin, place the plant material inside the 20 gallon bag and then place this bag inside a large plastic bag (or a 25 or 45 micron 20gal bag) to catch the sift and agitate the bag.

A window insect mesh screen has very large openings, so use a gentle action to attain your "rough farmer's sift", then re-sieve with finer meshes.

Dry sifting is always best done in a cold room with low humidity so use an A/C and or a dehumidifier for best results.

by the way a window insect screen is great for dry trimming over, but it's about as ghetto as you can get for dry sifting! If you have a tumbler or large flat screens with a mesh that is 160 ~ 125 micron or 85 ~ 120 (threads per inch) Mesh, then do use that.

Sounds good I will be looking into that forsure

I used to put bubble hash in my boots inside cellophane and walk around for a few hours....yeehaw

Lol the good old fashion boot hash I've done it before with some really nice dry sift final product looked beautiful