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Plantingplants' Flower Farm 2017

plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Crushn it's hard to say. I at least give them 10 gal a day. But now I realize each one has different water requirements. So they got like 40 gals a pot two days ago, Maybe 10 yesterday, and today I had some droopies so I watered for 20 min, and after 20 minutes of running in circles adjusting sprayers only to realize what I was doing simply wasn't working, I threw two ball valves on to shut off half the garden. That worked great and I can run the pump with lower throttle but I still have the muddy middles and dry routers.

Fuckin summer man. Russet mites... irrigation failures.. need another layer of trellis asap.. nutrient problems... overwatered and underwatered at the same time (seriously??!?!)...
 
E

EasyGoing

Member
"Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth."

Mike Tyson

This is a brutal industry, but God made a farmer.
 
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Hahaha I love that Tyson quote. I'm gonna eat the children of these mites. Yea I might end up doing a little illegal ear biting.

Anyway, plants arelookin hungry, and I let the soil dry out for a full day. Most of it is dry so now I'm going to water separate zones and try to soak the hell out of them and start over.

Idk what to feed though. Soil test isn't helping. Bout to hit the bottle.
 
H

hobbyhorse

Member
Amino's seconded. That battery is draining every hour you procrastinate plants.
Edit: and gypsum just saw your last soil test.

How did the dep end up mate?
 
Last edited:
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Thank you. Ok how much Pacific gro though? A quart per pot? I don't even think the local shop has enough stock for me. I know it ain't as good but what about MAP? Although I don't even know where I'd find it locally.


Just spent the whole day trying to get the pots wet. I fucked up and dropped 4000 gals to 4.5 pH with citric lol. I guess I fucked up Even more when I used what I had on hand to pH up (0.75 g a gal k sil and 1.2g a gal kelp extract. I hit 5.1 pH.) BUT I did add a higher than equal ppm of Ca. They were droopin though so I had to water. and at least the ones halfway thru flower might like it. Also added thermx.

I watered 20% soil volume and some of the bottom of the pots are still dry. 45 min zone 1, 45 zone 2, 30 zone 1, 30 zone 2. Guess I'll try again tomorrow with some citric and micros and more Ca and whatever N I can get my hands on.


Noonin My soil is good on P but for some reason it's unavailable. Soil is high pH but even when i feed phos acid it doesnt Fix the red petioles. What do you use for P?


Hobby I'm cutting it soon. Lots of shitty, some ok, a few great. I didn't take care of it very well but it gave me a taste. I slacked on setting up irrigation (figured out you can't use siphon mixers with drip) so watering was an issue and wasn't getting good results feeding seagrow (wanted to make it easy). Amherst sour d came out great. Aog is nice too. The a of purple pheno is a beautiful color. Ill get photos
 
growingcrazy

growingcrazy

Well-known member
You need to take a break and chill for a minute..relax..

Bone meal, calphos, gypsum, compost... mix into the top couple inches of soil. You should be able to find all those easily and figure out the gm/cuft you need to desired ppm. You already added micros...

You are applying Mg through foliar I would hope?

pH to 5.5-5.8 from here on out, add max 100-150ppm of P from phos acid to your res., citric acid to get you the rest of the way to your target. Using PG as pH down is also something that works well and as many have noted, it is hard to find a limit on PG.

If you can water it all in with a good active tea, all the better... You need microbes to get working on your Ca and P quickly. Bone meal alone will green a plant up within days if you have the biology to get it into the plant.

EDIT: You also need to do some testing on your watering. Soak one pot with 2x what you think is logical, wait 24 hours, see results. You really have to slowly soak some of these light weight peat mixes once they dry out. I'm talking slow drip for 10 hours to get a full drench and the container back to even saturation...
 
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Lol I just went to San Fran to a show and the zoo. I was actually pretty mellow today since my irrigation is actually working now. Very happy actually. But Ill go swim in the river on that suggestion. That's always a nice soul drench.

So I've been pHing at 5.8 and occasionally doing 125 ppm P with p acid and already topdressed my desired base saturation of Ca. I'm sure they could use more. But my P is high- Idk why they have red petioles but I don't need anymore P I need to make it available somehow. I guess your answer would be microbes? Should I add pond enzymes?

Now is the perfect time to check my soil biology with my microscope. I'm going to take a sample tomorrow and scope It. Ill take some photos.

When you mix amendments into the top couple inches is it ok that you're breaking all those roots? I have to use my bodyweight to get into the soil with a trowel to take soil samples. I'm thinking it might be pretty hard to mix it in the top layer so what about top dressing then mulching?
 
Noonin NorCal

Noonin NorCal

Active member
Veteran
Last week i just fed mine bottled nutes, I've been somewhat organic ever since now i guess you can say. I gave em Earth Juice Bloom 0-16-16 i believe the NPK is. Never ph.d my water at all this season, i have a carbon filter on my hose. i get to hand water.

I water in 3 stages, organic/semi organic nutes. next watering is compost tea. Then 3rd watering i flush with Protekt Silica

I will top dress soon with Age Old Organics, Dry Fruit. I think its 2-10-20 with 1 % calcium .

I have flowers already setting

Ive never had my soil tested, but i got my soil from Soil King in Cloverdale, they say you don't have to add anything to it. When i transplanted i added extra perlite, extra worm castings. and a top layer of high N guano.

I also add liquid karma when I'm feeding with nutes
 
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Also, I just measured my ec from before watering...

New soil (more yellow plants): .
pH 7
Ec 0.21 (0.5 probe)

Old soil:
pH 6.8
Ec 0.28

Tells me my water is not bringing down my pH yet and that they do need more N. Need at least 0.3.
 
Noonin NorCal

Noonin NorCal

Active member
Veteran
I can't grow large plants. Im in a residential area and have a 8 foot high fence, i have 3 neighbors surrounding my backyard lol. Im only in 45 gallon smart pots. Mostly they are 4 feet tall, but I've trained them, and they are 9-12 feet around. Like a mushroom cap. If i ever figure out how to upload pics from my iPhone , id love to share
 
H

hobbyhorse

Member
Noonin start a thread.

Topdress and fertigate Amino's. You could brew up some N if u don't have access to enough soluble stuff.

What time of day are u watering plants? If i cant keep up in summer I run fertigation at night. Let it soak in abit longer/slower.
 
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Ok I'm pickin up Pacific Grow today.. I think it's going to be a little short (And way too expensive..18 bucks a gallon) so I might supplement with a gentle touch of calcium nitrate since there's no MAP around. Is that ok?

I'm still lost on this Phos issue. From my reading I see a pH of 7 isn't even that bad for P. 6-7 is where the least P fixation occurs. So how do I have 1000 ppm and purple stems? Even when I feed 125 ppm of phos acid through water?

Does soil EC affect P uptake?


Also, are there any microbe products I could buy at the grow shop on par with tainio type stuff?


Hobby and GC, re:irr, I'm using a gas water pump with sprayers so can't let it go for 10 hrs or at night. I didn't think it would take 60 gallons per 300 gal so that was my high estimate. Gonna dump more today to get that bottom wet.
 
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
Lemon Thai Kush is throwing pollen sacks. First they weren't even feminized and I had rip out males and now they're throwing pollen? I guess you could say they are masculized seeds. HSO's Green Crack has been great for years, super vigorous, but they're fucking me on this one. I don't want to risk it so I guess I'll pull the ones doing it. Lame as fuck. Its like we are in an ancient war against the male gender of cannabis... we have killed so many, for so long.. and yet they're still able to sneak in, like a Trojan horse, for one final 'fuck you' as they shoot their load all over your girlfriends. Cucked.

Anyway on a good note:

hso amherst sour d light dep

image.jpg



Ancient OGs about to close the gap.


image.jpg




Apparently they don't mind low pH water. They look very happy and are growing. Still some with yellowish leaves and purple stems though. I dumped another 60 gal each to get the bottoms wet. The last 30 gallons carried to each pot almost 3/4 of a quart of Pacific Gro, mn, cu, zn, mo, co, and b. And yucca. Top dressed gyp. I feel like that wasnt enough N. I'm thinking MAP and humic.

Gonna back off the water now, only keeping the top moist with frequent light waterings until they need another drench.

Anyone ever use Mammoth P? I am hoping my increased EC and significantly lower pH water gets P moving somehow but I think I'll try these microbes out. I'm skeptical but I need this 1000 ppm P available. Although I shouldn't rely on that... I don't want to flood my P-heavy soil with more P but if it's not available then I have to prioritize the plants needs over soil management.

Hh, haven't read that yet but will.



Anyone know what this is?

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
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