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High brix foliar spray?
- Thread starter Aksala
- Start date
I switched to organic growing and tried to get a nice soil mix to keep them happy. FPE's also help. High intensity leds help as well. I've never been a big fan of using too much nutes, I was only using them to correct deficiencies when I was still using mineral ferts. So I seen a steady increase since I got to organic and dialed things in a bit. But I could not judge it in a fair way cause I never really used more than half of recomended dose of nutes when I was using mineral ferts. Having a nice, aerated soil mix and a balanced soil PH helps a lot.
I guess you need to get your own starting measurement and then try to improve it.
I guess you need to get your own starting measurement and then try to improve it.
Aksala
Member
I've always grown organic so I would assume my brix levels won't be too terrible but you never know. Get complimented on the taste/smell/potency of my weed all the time but to me there is always room for improvement.
I've also been looking into making some COB LED panels. A couple good how to channels on youtube. Lab analysis does seem to show an increase in terps from the COB's.
I've also been looking into making some COB LED panels. A couple good how to channels on youtube. Lab analysis does seem to show an increase in terps from the COB's.
conradino23
Active member
I guess this is gonna be my first post here, but I've been growing weed for 13 years, and have been hanging out long on another forum, where HB grows were practically invented or at least perfected with a formula.
I'm basically a LOS outdoor grower, but I found HB principles going hand in hand with organics. I'm just gonna scratch the surface here, you know uncovering the basics, but you can always ask me for some more details, and I'll answer them if I can.
High Brix as measured with a refractometer correspond with high levels of carbohydrates produced by a plant (every plant really, even grass). It's been widely accepted that we're entering HB territory if we get 12+ Brix, and then we make it even better by getting 16+ Brix.
High Brix in cannabis is achieved by upping calcium/magnesium levels (they are always correleated) and lowering potassium/phosphorus in soil mix. With this comes work done by mycorrhizae and bacteria, which thrive in such a medium and have perfect conditions to multiply.
Another assumption in HB grows is keeping organic matter content at a minimum, roughly at 10-20% of total weight. It's also about using drenches, foliar sprays, and mineral additives, that create a perfect balance of nutrients in soil.
What it does it pushes terpenes production to the maximum, and also up THC production, makes the buds heavier (due to calcium content), and results in a very sparkly/mineral, clean and absolutely flavorful smoke that is almost addictive
I'm basically a LOS outdoor grower, but I found HB principles going hand in hand with organics. I'm just gonna scratch the surface here, you know uncovering the basics, but you can always ask me for some more details, and I'll answer them if I can.
High Brix as measured with a refractometer correspond with high levels of carbohydrates produced by a plant (every plant really, even grass). It's been widely accepted that we're entering HB territory if we get 12+ Brix, and then we make it even better by getting 16+ Brix.
High Brix in cannabis is achieved by upping calcium/magnesium levels (they are always correleated) and lowering potassium/phosphorus in soil mix. With this comes work done by mycorrhizae and bacteria, which thrive in such a medium and have perfect conditions to multiply.
Another assumption in HB grows is keeping organic matter content at a minimum, roughly at 10-20% of total weight. It's also about using drenches, foliar sprays, and mineral additives, that create a perfect balance of nutrients in soil.
What it does it pushes terpenes production to the maximum, and also up THC production, makes the buds heavier (due to calcium content), and results in a very sparkly/mineral, clean and absolutely flavorful smoke that is almost addictive
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
If you could explain the spray schedule I would be most grateful I want to foliar feed but it seems quite complicated from the other high brix threads the cationic and anionic sprays and drenches alternate at different times. The soil mix is easy enough but the spray routine I need help making sense of it.I guess this is gonna be my first post here, but I've been growing weed for 13 years, and have been hanging out long on another forum, where HB grows were practically invented or at least perfected with a formula.
I'm basically a LOS outdoor grower, but I found HB principles going hand in hand with organics. I'm just gonna scratch the surface here, you know uncovering the basics, but you can always ask me for some more details, and I'll answer them if I can.
High Brix as measured with a refractometer correspond with high levels of carbohydrates produced by a plant (every plant really, even grass). It's been widely accepted that we're entering HB territory if we get 12+ Brix, and then we make it even better by getting 16+ Brix.
High Brix in cannabis is achieved by upping calcium/magnesium levels (they are always correleated) and lowering potassium/phosphorus in soil mix. With this comes work done by mycorrhizae and bacteria, which thrive in such a medium and have perfect conditions to multiply.
Another assumption in HB grows is keeping organic matter content at a minimum, roughly at 10-20% of total weight. It's also about using drenches, foliar sprays, and mineral additives, that create a perfect balance of nutrients in soil.
What it does it pushes terpenes production to the maximum, and also up THC production, makes the buds heavier (due to calcium content), and results in a very sparkly/mineral, clean and absolutely flavorful smoke that is almost addictive
conradino23
Active member
Foliar sprays are used mostly indoor, I spray with bacteria exclusively being outdoor, which also helps. FYI though they are composed mostly of micronutrients like zinc, iron or magnesium. They are used both in veg and in flower, usually when plant is lacking in mineral balance, which you can figure by observing the plant. Cationic drenches are different thing, used in middle and late flowering exclusively. Anionic feeeding is on the other hand used whenever plant lacks growth energy.
Ok so here are my brix
Ok so here are my brix
My brix levels for the past month then about 2 weeks ago I added one more ingredient and BAM veg brix is at an insane all time high. BOOYA 2 weeks later jumps from 18.2 to 23% in veg so now I wanna flower the ladies. in my new light recipe room
4 lights.
60 nanometer blue 1/2 under and 1/2 over canopy
1000w gavita
300w plasma
4, 35w far reds
13.5 hours on
10.5 hours off
expected yield 3.5 pounds
expected THC% 25-27
Ok so here are my brix
My brix levels for the past month then about 2 weeks ago I added one more ingredient and BAM veg brix is at an insane all time high. BOOYA 2 weeks later jumps from 18.2 to 23% in veg so now I wanna flower the ladies. in my new light recipe room
4 lights.
60 nanometer blue 1/2 under and 1/2 over canopy
1000w gavita
300w plasma
4, 35w far reds
13.5 hours on
10.5 hours off
expected yield 3.5 pounds
expected THC% 25-27
Attachments
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Thanks conradino
Just saw your answer I'm using the calcium nitrate spray in veg and early flower and plan to try some kelp and fish in week three
High Brix Spray
High Brix Spray
I know this thread is old but it is still relevant IMO.
Here´s my own High Brix foliar spray recipe;
Calcium carbonate (rock powder)
Algae Lime (red Algae, contains every micronutrient, Mg & Calcium)
Dextrose powder (dextrosole)
fish mix (Bio-bizz)
Alg-a-mic ( liquid kelp, Bio-bizz)
Acti vera ( Aloe vera extract, Bio-bizz)
Organic lemon juice (used to adjust the PH-value to 5.8-6.0, and to chelate all the metallic micronutrients)
Experiment with the concentrations yourselfs, I always go by feel.
High Brix Spray
I know this thread is old but it is still relevant IMO.
Here´s my own High Brix foliar spray recipe;
Calcium carbonate (rock powder)
Algae Lime (red Algae, contains every micronutrient, Mg & Calcium)
Dextrose powder (dextrosole)
fish mix (Bio-bizz)
Alg-a-mic ( liquid kelp, Bio-bizz)
Acti vera ( Aloe vera extract, Bio-bizz)
Organic lemon juice (used to adjust the PH-value to 5.8-6.0, and to chelate all the metallic micronutrients)
Experiment with the concentrations yourselfs, I always go by feel.
conradino23
Active member
I’d use calcium acetate or calcium citrate instead. Much better absorption rate.
