DIY Dry Sieve, Cheap and Easy

Hello Hash and Resin Fanatics.

I've wanted to try my hand at dry sieving for quite some time now, but just recently became disabled, so money is tight as I recover from my Bi-lateral hip replacement. Then I can fire up the garden again

Before spending a bunch of money,I wanted to explore some DYI projects(again bored) & came up with the following:



A simple cookie tin (you know the crappy Christmas cookie tin)
I used a can opener to remove the bottom.

Cheap set of bubble bags- you only need the mesh.

Binder clips...

Clip one side, pull the mesh taught, and secure clip directly across the other side, repeat at a perpendicular angle, pulling the mesh as taught as possible.



I've used it only briefly and it worked fairly well..

Going to secure a 220micron on one side(top screen) & secure a 160 micron on the other side( bottom screen)

Will update once I've run some material through, only drawback so far is the small surface area.

I think this would work well with acoustical system.... Hope it works.

nice! cant wait to see what you make

Perfect, I like the drum vs the big wood frames.

Keep us posted, and good luck!

subd to see what you get I got my cookie tin ready !!

Have you tried doing anything with this? Try using a 110 on top and the 220 on the bottom, you want the glands to fall through the top and get trapped on the bottom, which will also let the dust or smaller particles fall away.

EsterEssence said:

Have you tried doing anything with this? Try using a 110 on top and the 220 on the bottom, you want the glands to fall through the top and get trapped on the bottom, which will also let the dust or smaller particles fall away.

Click to expand...

Coincidently I have been busy with water sieving at the request of my patients... But the list is done for now.
So, I've been stressed out getting spins done, cured and out.

I asked for a week to "get myself together" before handling solvent extractions for the following couple of weeks straight.

But indeed, I appreciate you stopping by and dropping that tip, .....
Are you talking LPI? Or Micron?

I was going to use the 220 micron on top, and the 160 or 120 micron on the bottom, mocking DWS' technique.
I ask as I will be finally getting around to trying this out with both dry buds, sugar trim and try to refine a couple of Widemouth Mason Jars of some kief that's been aged for about 16 months !!

So do I got my screens backwards? Should the 220micron be my top or bottom screen?
Thanks for your insight.
Much respect Ester,
-dabs

this is what i do to get material to make bho from to save using loads of bute on loads of leaf
started using the 200micron bubble bag over a bowl, but its a little small

I was going to use the 220 micron on top, and the 160 or 120 micron on the bottom, mocking DWS'

Should the 220micron be my top or bottom screen?

The 220 micron screen has larger openings than the 160 or 120 meshes. The widest openings should be on top for any type of dry sifting as the idea is to separate the wheat from the chaff or the resin from the broken up leaf matter and stalks (aka contaminant)


Generally speaking and not specific to this thread and the questions raised .......
For dry sifting with two screens : Put the mesh with the wider openings on top and the mesh with the finer openings under it...that's the basics....but how you actually do it and how it actually happens depends on the mesh sizes you have available or choose to use.

For a two mesh combo of 60~80 (lines per inch) Mesh (which will have openings of roughly 260~180 micron sized openings..depending on which type of mesh used and the thickness of the threads..this will have very large size openings) and the bottom mesh that is 80 ~ 125 Mesh** (180~ 145 micron mesh openings..smaller sized openings)
The upper mesh catches the broken up plant matter and allows the resin heads and other small sized contaminant to pass through and the bottom mesh will allow the stalks, small sized broken up pieces of leaf etc to be caught while the resin heads pass through this bottom mesh.

For a two mesh combo of 125~100 Mesh (145~165 micron mesh = larger sized openings) and 180 ~220 Mesh (75 ~ 55 micron mesh - very small openings) . The resin heads and smaller sized contaminant will pass through the first mesh and the small size contaminant and small sized resin heads will pass through the fine mesh* while the resin heads remain on top of the bottom mesh.

*"Mesh" with a capital M refers to USA mesh...or how many threads per linear inch, a screen that is labelled "100 Mesh" will have 100 lines per inch. "Micron" mesh refers to the Metric width between each thread.

** this fine contaminant needs to be actively worked to pass through this fine mesh, simple agitation won't do it, so carding or other methods needs to be used.

To minimize contaminant in with your resin, use a gentle dry sifting technique for a short duration using small amounts of dry material at a time in a non-humid environment...as it's a whole lot easier to prevent the crap from getting in rather than trying to remove it later (that's if purity is your aim)

If I had 220, 260 and 120 micron meshes then I would use all three and use resifting techniques.

One way the old timers in other countries would take the kief already shaken from the plant using something like a 110 lpi screen. They would take the kief and put it in a 220 lpi loose screen like a baseball size ball and shake it, the dust or smaller particles fly away and what is left in the ball was pretty darn good. This was done on a cold morning so the crystals were hard, not sticky as to hold on to the impurities. Try putting some good trim in a mason jar, put a 110 lpi screen over the top and shake some kief out of the jar onto a 110 lpi screen on top of your cookie tin with the 220lpi on the bottom, then gently shake the tin allowing the kief to fall through. What is trapped on top of the 220 is what you want...

@ Tropic & Ester!

Will update as soon as I start playing!
Great info from the both of you!
Much obliged
-dabs

I also like what time to shine did with the static and the screen...