Older wiser and going organic!!!

troutman · Apr 1, 2019

The temperature will climb after the lights are on. Mid 60's isn't really that bad and a lower starting
temperature will actually make it easier to control the overall heat. It's actually better for your plants
to enjoy cooler nights. It sucks when the temperature is already high and the lights aren't on in the
Summer. Plants smell nicer if they aren't overheated as well.

mrghost · Apr 1, 2019

Prodigygrower said:
We’ll I got the power run things moving along I’m not 100% happy but it’s been a while and I don’t have unlimited funds with this project. Plus this is a new venture for me and I’m nervous that I’ve done everything thing correctly with this soil. Oh well time will tell and I’ll trouble shoot anything that comes along if and when that happens.

I prepared my soil 3 weeks ago. (still brewing).
After 4 - 8 weeks I test the ph and do minor tweaks. I'll also mix the amended soil 50/50 with compost (with worms and other soil life). The last step for me is to wait another 2 weeks so the troops had time to move in. I don't worry too much, I've had amazing success with straight vegan based compost and reused it several times (no-till)

It's all about waiting and the ph.

Once the ph is perfect you should be good. I read your ingredients and don't think you have to worry about nutrients.

AgentPothead · Apr 1, 2019

Prodigygrower said:
Awesome thanks broski. Im just trying to follow the recipe as best I can. I think the extra coco in the pro mix hb cc deff expanded more than I thought it would but that’s what coco does.
I tend to over think things and criticize the hell out of myself. I’m my own worst enemy in that regard. Tomorrow I’ll get the rest framed in. Then it will be added to as the plants grow fans filters ect. The space I have looks perfect for 4K but I’m worried about keeping my temps in check. The basement stays in the mid 60s all year round. I’m hoping a nice portable ac unit will do the trick or even maybe just fresh air drawn in through the window. The adjustwings don’t get super hot for open hoods. I won’t really know till I get everything together though. I wish I had the money for a mini split but that will have to wait for the next spot.

Can I ask which promix you bought? Cause the 2.8 CF bag is loose pack, but the 3.8 CF bag is actually packed in their so tight it expands to something around 7 CF.

Prodigygrower · Apr 2, 2019

mrghost said:
I prepared my soil 3 weeks ago. (still brewing).
After 4 - 8 weeks I test the ph and do minor tweaks. I'll also mix the amended soil 50/50 with compost (with worms and other soil life). The last step for me is to wait another 2 weeks so the troops had time to move in. I don't worry too much, I've had amazing success with straight vegan based compost and reused it several times (no-till)

It's all about waiting and the ph.

Once the ph is perfect you should be good. I read your ingredients and don't think you have to worry about nutrients.

I thought 4 or 5 weeks was long enough for the amendments to break down and the ph to stabilize. Oh well guess I’ll have to cough up the money and grab some more gear.

Prodigygrower · Apr 2, 2019

AgentPothead said:
Can I ask which promix you bought? Cause the 2.8 CF bag is loose pack, but the 3.8 CF bag is actually packed in their so tight it expands to something around 7 CF.

I bought the 3.8 cubic foot bag. I just used the Phillthy mix but doubled it along with dank.franks basic amendment recipe.

mrghost · Apr 2, 2019

Prodigygrower said:
I thought 4 or 5 weeks was long enough for the amendments to break down and the ph to stabilize. Oh well guess I’ll have to cough up the money and grab some more gear.

4 - 5 weeks should be ok. I just don't check the ph before those 4 weeks. I do it all after the mix has brewed for a while.
I don't think you need to buy more stuff. Most failed projects start off with "doing too much".
Over time you will develop a feeling and make your own mixes based on your experience.
When I started doing no-till I went with the most fail proof mix. No amendments, no brewing/waiting. Just compost, cover crop and different types of hay or dried grasses as a mulch layer. I trusted on nature to show me the path and had 5 successful runs with reusing that mix.

Prodigygrower · Apr 3, 2019

mrghost said:
4 - 5 weeks should be ok. I just don't check the ph before those 4 weeks. I do it all after the mix has brewed for a while.
I don't think you need to buy more stuff. Most failed projects start off with "doing too much".
Over time you will develop a feeling and make your own mixes based on your experience.
When I started doing no-till I went with the most fail proof mix. No amendments, no brewing/waiting. Just compost, cover crop and different types of hay or dried grasses as a mulch layer. I trusted on nature to show me the path and had 5 successful runs with reusing that mix.

Ok good the only thing thing I was worried about is its cold where I’m letting my mix cook. It’s in the mid 60’s. So I didn’t know if it would need more time based on that. I’m deff gonna have to do some more research when it comes to reamending my soil after use.

big315smooth · Apr 3, 2019

i get through veg and halfway through flower then need hit nute is my mix to weak

Prodigygrower · Apr 3, 2019

Well 36 hrs later here we are. I’m really Impressed with the vigor of these fotia from pcs seeds. Some of the Tropicana haze look to be pushing up as well but the fotia are growing very fast.

dank.frank · Apr 3, 2019

Prodigygrower said:
I’m deff gonna have to do some more research when it comes to reamending my soil after use.

I'll be addressing that in my thread when the time comes. I have soil from the bed before anything was planted and I'll send it in for a soil with a sample to test after everything is harvested.

Given a known starting point and a set parameter for what was removed in a single cycle, I'll then use the formulas to restore the original nutrient profile once again.

I'm not saying the numbers in my new thread are right, I'm merely suggesting if you want to KNOW, then there is a way to compile data, with which, even if you don't understand fully, you can look at before and after results to come to logical conclusions of what to do next.

I'd suggest following Moses Wellflet's thread - and look at how he solved the same question in his own garden, starting from more or less the same base.

The point of the basic amendment recipe was to provide concrete results that allowed room for each individual to still dial it in based on their own environmental circumstances. He aced it.

dank.Frank

Prodigygrower · Apr 3, 2019

dank.frank said:
I'll be addressing that in my thread when the time comes. I have soil from the bed before anything was planted and I'll send it in for a soil with a sample to test after everything is harvested.

Given a known starting point and a set parameter for what was removed in a single cycle, I'll then use the formulas to restore the original nutrient profile once again.

I'm not saying the numbers in my new thread are right, I'm merely suggesting if you want to KNOW, then there is a way to compile data, with which, even if you don't understand fully, you can look at before and after results to come to logical conclusions of what to do next.

I'd suggest following Moses Wellflet's thread - and look at how he solved the same question in his own garden, starting from more or less the same base.

The point of the basic amendment recipe was to provide concrete results that allowed room for each individual to still dial it in based on their own environmental circumstances. He aced it.

dank.Frank

Those were some of the thoughts I had as well with the before and after testing. I assumed that each variety and pheno of said variety would consume different amounts of each amendment. Is amendment the correct term to use or do those tests only read the npk ratio of the soil?? From I’ve been reading organics is hard to dial in to a exact number and close is as close as you will come in that aspect. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I can’t wait to see the data you uncover with your results. I’m deff gonna check out his thread. Also do you think my temps being in the low to mid 60’s will it take longer for my soil to cook. As always I appreciate the guidance my friend.

dank.frank · Apr 3, 2019

Soil will produce it's own heat but keeping it off concrete floors certainly speeds things along. Even if that is just a folded towel or two to separate floor from container to insulate a bit.

dank.Frank

Prodigygrower · Apr 13, 2019

So a lil update we have 12 out of 15 fotia and 6 out of 7 Tropicana haze bx5 up and going. I’m pleased with the results. I’ll get more of the room done tomorrow. The temps are staying at 75 with the humidity around 62. Not mad about it at all. I’m gonna mix the soil again and continue to let it cook. So juiced god I’ve missed this.

Prodigygrower · Apr 14, 2019

So I got some new gear to run through from my friend strayfox. I’m just not sure what pop. Everything sounds bomb. Everything I’ve seen with his Iraqi crosses has been fire. That 91chem x yeti f3 is looking pretty tempting. But I think I’m going to go with the chem 4 x blue berry that just screams pick me. From what I understand the sleeping Iraqi lines are very Euphoric and pain reliving. Which tends to be what I like.

Prodigygrower · Jun 1, 2019

What’s goodie fam! I know it’s been a min but things are rolling along. I ran into some issues. Which is expected when it’s your first run in 6 years and your rockin with a partner who has never popped a seed before. That being said the girls are bouncing back and not looking to bad. Deff will be some interesting phenos to find in this run. I transplanted them into one gal pots. Using the cooked soil. The girls weren’t as strong as I’d like them to be. So I put a layer of the mix in the bottom and cut the mix in half with the FFLW just to take it a Lil easy on them. They loved it for the most part might be a Lil strong on some but over all they are looking way better. I’m really impressed with stray foxes gear. I also have some crazy phenos of the trophaze bx5 from oni seed co with a couple looking super ogkb dom. Any way hope all is well with you guys here are some flicks.

The first is the ogkb pheno I have my eye in on of the trophaze bx5. The second is the 91chem c yeti f3. The third is the chem4 x bb. And last is the wedding cake x sleeping Iraqi. I’ll get some shots of the fotia and more of the trophaze up later.

dank.frank · Jun 1, 2019

Interesting genes. Love how the OGKB traits just pop out in everything she is paired too. Makes it fun to outcross.

dank.Frank

Prodigygrower · Jun 1, 2019

dank.frank said:
Interesting genes. Love how the OGKB traits just pop out in everything she is paired too. Makes it fun to outcross.

dank.Frank

I spoke with someone who ran the trophaze bx5. I asked if he found any ogkb phenos. He didn’t find any in his pack so I’m kinda excited to see how she turns out. I have another pheno that is pretty close to this one but it’s vegging a lil faster and the leaves don’t over lap as much. This is the best part I love the hunt. Ogkb deff makes it easy to distinguish pheno type expression. There is no denying those traits.

moses wellfleet · Jun 1, 2019

Unfortunately my thread re re-amending soil that Frank mentions is no longer around, I will be starting a new one soon.

You will love reusing soil it is super easy and worms make all the castings you need en situ. Making your own soil is long overdue for a lot of members here imho!

Three years of using the same soil I feel that it has lost the ability to bounce back when squeezed that is provided by the coco fibre and peat moss. I'm going to mix up some new soil using the existing soil as the worm castings component. I'm keen to see if I notice a difference, nothing wrong with the results atm tho.

Definitely go through Lapides thread too. I'm in the same boat as him as I never had a soil test before!

Good vibes for your grow, I will be following along!

Prodigygrower · Jun 1, 2019

moses wellfleet said:
Unfortunately my thread re re-amending soil that Frank mentions is no longer around, I will be starting a new one soon.

You will love reusing soil it is super easy and worms make all the castings you need en situ. Making your own soil is long overdue for a lot of members here imho!

Three years of using the same soil I feel that it has lost the ability to bounce back when squeezed that is provided by the coco fibre and peat moss. I'm going to mix up some new soil using the existing soil as the worm castings component. I'm keen to see if I notice a difference, nothing wrong with the results atm tho.

Definitely go through Lapides thread too. I'm in the same boat as him as I never had a soil test before!

Good vibes for your grow, I will be following along!

Yes sir! I had a bump or two to start but I think I’m getting things down. It’s deff a transition from pure coco to living soil but I like what I’m seeing so far. I know it will take a run or two to get completely comfortable. At the end of the day I just want to grow some dank chronic that’s clean and pure and grown to the best of my ability. I will deff check out the threads. I’m really excited to see franks results with how he re amended his bed. I am a lil confused about why you don’t need to let the soil cook. Especially since your adding back the bone and blood meals as well as the guano. I though it took time for those components to break down and become available for the plants consumption. Here are a couple more pics of everything.

dank.frank · Jun 1, 2019

In my new soil mix, there is only 1/8c + 1tbsp blood and feather meal. Both are super high N but have different break down rates. They are there for quick increase in nitrogen over the first 3 weeks or so. After that, things present in higher quantities, that take a bit longer to become available, start contributing their roles.

I made this chart, for this exact purpose, to show people, exactly what portion of the total NPK profile is coming from what amendment.

Notice, I get a LARGE portion of the nitrogen from organic chicken manure, called Symphony. Great product to use that is slower release based on it's formulation (pelleted).

That's another thing to address. When I use azomite - I'll use 1/4 micronized and 3/4 granular, or whatever the case may be, depending on the situation and what I think the need is - immediate or just continual soil building to avoid depletion. When I re-amended, I only used granular.

The bone meal I use is "pelleted" as well. Some are super fine powders. The crab shell is rough ground shell chunks and meal/flour like in the same bag.

All these things play a part in the ecosystem and how things interact and function with each other. The low volume usage of quick release, highly concentrated nutrients, paired with other ingredients that will eventually in time begin to supplement the need - allows me to plant immediately after mixing a soil without too much protest from the plants. I still get some light tip burn from time to time but they grow fine after a couple days adjustment.

That goes back to that diversity thing I've talked about for years. It really is about creating a structured soil that will perform how we need it to. It's not a bunch of stuff on a list to make it seem fancy and better than the next guys. It's just the only way I've managed to get the "water only" system to ACTUALLY work...diversity of inputs.

dank.Frank

Older wiser and going organic!!!

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