Nice tutorial! I think I've only seen 2 other builds I liked that had decent setups. One was a vortex setup but I didn't save the link and no longer seem to be able to locate it. So I will just take a seat right here!
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DIY 5 gallon bucket "vortex" brewer
- Thread starter Weird Jimmy
- Start date
mine is almost complete witing for the 5 way. These are not common so a web order or a plumbing supply house will have it..
Hey OrganicBuds, what is that pvc piece that's on the end of your induction tank? Do you know what it's called exactly?... Also, you should try to drill a hole on the side of your tank, and use a 2" uniseal for your riser piece. That way you wouldn't have to have your return pipe go in through the top, that way you could use the screw on lid that comes with the tank while it's brewing. Here's a pic of how we (used to) build those 15 gallon brewers at my store. Our design is a little different now, but we still use uniseals for the risers.
Weird Jimmy, that is a b-e-a-utiful brewer, very nice job.
My brewer came with a male threaded end, that is made to accept pvc. The pvc piece that I used is just a female threaded 1 1/4 pvc, and the other side of the fitting is just a 1 1/4 slip (glue) fitting. If I didn't explain that well then I can take a picture if you want. Very close to this fitting on HD website..... Mueller Streamline
1-1/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC Schedule 40 Pressure MIPT x Slip Reducing Male Adapter on this web page..... http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All#/?c=1&Nao=24
As for holes in the side, I see too many down sides to this. First off, how many gallons do you cut out of your brewer doing this? I can fill mine to the brim, and when the vortex starts the middle drops and the sides rise and spin on the upper lip. Max space. Also, when you have your riser pipe rise as high as your pump will let it, it adds pressure, which adds dissolved oxygen. I could be way wrong on all this, and I have to admit, I make a mess brewing. I don't mind cleaning a little extra however. The last down side I can see is cost. Each uni-seal fitting has to be 3 times the cost of regular pvc fittings right? Now times that by 4?
On my 55 gal brewer I cut holes in the lid. One for the riser pump to exit, and another for it to re-enter the brewer. This way I get zero splash but keep the benefits mentioned above.
I noticed your brewer has it's feeder pipes laying on the ground. Does this effect brewing temperature that you have noticed? My 55 gal brewer I designed so the entire bottom of the brewer lays on the concrete, (not a vortex brewer) and helps keep my temps down in the summer. I use my smaller brewers in the winter for indoor crops, and I have noticed that raising them off the cold concrete helps keep temps up. Have you noticed the same at all?
My brewer came with a male threaded end, that is made to accept pvc. The pvc piece that I used is just a female threaded 1 1/4 pvc, and the other side of the fitting is just a 1 1/4 slip (glue) fitting. If I didn't explain that well then I can take a picture if you want. Very close to this fitting on HD website..... Mueller Streamline
1-1/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC Schedule 40 Pressure MIPT x Slip Reducing Male Adapter on this web page..... http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All#/?c=1&Nao=24
As for holes in the side, I see too many down sides to this. First off, how many gallons do you cut out of your brewer doing this? I can fill mine to the brim, and when the vortex starts the middle drops and the sides rise and spin on the upper lip. Max space. Also, when you have your riser pipe rise as high as your pump will let it, it adds pressure, which adds dissolved oxygen. I could be way wrong on all this, and I have to admit, I make a mess brewing. I don't mind cleaning a little extra however. The last down side I can see is cost. Each uni-seal fitting has to be 3 times the cost of regular pvc fittings right? Now times that by 4?
On my 55 gal brewer I cut holes in the lid. One for the riser pump to exit, and another for it to re-enter the brewer. This way I get zero splash but keep the benefits mentioned above.
I noticed your brewer has it's feeder pipes laying on the ground. Does this effect brewing temperature that you have noticed? My 55 gal brewer I designed so the entire bottom of the brewer lays on the concrete, (not a vortex brewer) and helps keep my temps down in the summer. I use my smaller brewers in the winter for indoor crops, and I have noticed that raising them off the cold concrete helps keep temps up. Have you noticed the same at all?
Not exactly sure how many gallons this cuts out? It's about 2" less than the total volume, and I don't know how to equate that? The the 2" uniseals are only 3.99 retail and you'd only need one.
I haven't monitored the temperature enough to know what the variance would be, if any? And we kept it off of the ground for most part anyway... I actually have a brand new induction tank sitting in the back of my store right now; it might be time to start a new brewer project!
I haven't monitored the temperature enough to know what the variance would be, if any? And we kept it off of the ground for most part anyway... I actually have a brand new induction tank sitting in the back of my store right now; it might be time to start a new brewer project!
here's that brewer with tea in it.... with this design, whatever volume you lose in the actual tank, is probably made up from the volume of the four risers.
I will run this for awhile.. Where did you get that tank for the 15g unit?? name of website.. Also if I add air diffusers to the line will that help of hinder.
Is this the right one the 15g and stand 8784
Is this the right one the 15g and stand 8784
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^^^ nice work on the brewer... I've found that you get faster water movement without the use diffusers.
That's definitely the right tank. I have no idea where we got ours from. We found out they were officially called induction tanks, so we searched them and bought a few, but that was about a year ago now. That stand would work great with it.
That's definitely the right tank. I have no idea where we got ours from. We found out they were officially called induction tanks, so we searched them and bought a few, but that was about a year ago now. That stand would work great with it.
160$ for 15g tank and stand pluse 121$ for shipping. I would get it but the shipping is way to much .. Looks like about 275$ for a 15g wit hstand and shipping to much for me.
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We payed like $75 for just the tank. You could make a dope stand out of 2x4's for $25ish, and save $100 or so.
I think I have a new design for my air inputs as well. I'll post pics when I get it all completely figured out.
I think I have a new design for my air inputs as well. I'll post pics when I get it all completely figured out.
ya 75$ for the tank another 20 to ship. I was trying to find someone with free ship there are none lol..
Didn't even think about the extra volume in the pipes, plus one for your design. Are the uni-seals the part that go into the top of the brewer? Your four inlets? That is what I thought you were talking about, that is why I said x4. I think I have miss understood.
yeah, they're the bulkhead pieces at the top. I guess I was talking about if you made a brewer like yours (with the single riser tube), that you would only need one uniseal.
I have mentioned this previously but it may bear repeating. It is my opinion, based upon scientific measurements and literature but there are others who hold differing opinions based on that other science which is not yet measurable.
The vortex is really of very little consequence. It is the airlift which increases the dissolved oxygen and having a cone bottom tank ensures a thorough mix. All the hype over vortex is just hype, IMO. I have run the bioreactor with a vortex created or without (return nozzle pointed straight down) with no measurable differences. For a bioreactor up to 50 gallons I believe a single airlift is all that is advantageous.
It could be that bioreactors larger than this could benefit from 2 airlifts. In my opinion the most effective tank shape for maintaining a higher dissolved oxygen rate is one with straight sides coming down to a mild slope (around 15 degrees) into the exit port, like the little water bottles. This is opposed to the typical funnel shaped induction tanks.
The vortex is really of very little consequence. It is the airlift which increases the dissolved oxygen and having a cone bottom tank ensures a thorough mix. All the hype over vortex is just hype, IMO. I have run the bioreactor with a vortex created or without (return nozzle pointed straight down) with no measurable differences. For a bioreactor up to 50 gallons I believe a single airlift is all that is advantageous.
It could be that bioreactors larger than this could benefit from 2 airlifts. In my opinion the most effective tank shape for maintaining a higher dissolved oxygen rate is one with straight sides coming down to a mild slope (around 15 degrees) into the exit port, like the little water bottles. This is opposed to the typical funnel shaped induction tanks.
thanks for that info B.man...
MM - Have you noticed an increased amount of dissolved O2 when you raise your riser pipe in an air lift system? On my 55 gal brewer, I made it so it lifts the water a good foot above the water level. I was hoping this would increase the dissolved oxygen compared to 6'' above water level. I need a meter.....
OK i GOT IT WORKING. 
The Air line on 2 of the risers where blocked not enough air was getting through the line. I replaced all of the air tubing it's working now ..I have enough parts to make another one if I like this one..
One thing I did notice the black line leaks just like the clear does. I got my calipers out and measured them there both the same. I have tried 2 both leak air from the 1/4" hole. Do you know what kind of tubing it is your using? The air tubing black from Petco leaks, The Rian bird black 1/4 leaks.
The Air line on 2 of the risers where blocked not enough air was getting through the line. I replaced all of the air tubing it's working now ..I have enough parts to make another one if I like this one..One thing I did notice the black line leaks just like the clear does. I got my calipers out and measured them there both the same. I have tried 2 both leak air from the 1/4" hole. Do you know what kind of tubing it is your using? The air tubing black from Petco leaks, The Rian bird black 1/4 leaks.
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MM - Have you noticed an increased amount of dissolved O2 when you raise your riser pipe in an air lift system? On my 55 gal brewer, I made it so it lifts the water a good foot above the water level. I was hoping this would increase the dissolved oxygen compared to 6'' above water level. I need a meter.....
To a certain point this works positively within a trade off with the rate of flow. Measure your rate of flow with the return close to the water. As you raise this but the flow remains the same the dissolved O2 capacity will increase. At the point where the rate of flow decreases you will have diminishing dissolved O2 capacity.
One can do a similar adjustment with distance of the air input at right angles to the center of the riser pipe as well as length of internal diffuser, number and size of openings as well as size of diffusion chamber.
Someone recently placed a comment on a webpage selling the 12 gallon airlift bioreactor, indicating that the design was stupid because of the downward positioning of the air input. This revealed their complete lack of engineering sense, however the air input is configured this way simply for the convenience of having everything, including the drain valve on one side, saving on parts and cleaning.
