Autoflowering in Supersoil advice and help please!

Hello to everyone

I need advice from more experienced growers, please!
I am preparing my own mix of super soil from my own compost that I made from last year to this year, and Pindstrup from Holland. It is kind of root compost...

It will contain:

Fish meal
Bone meal
Blood meal
Epsom salt
Humic and fulvic acid
Azomite
Alfalfa
Bat guano
Worm casting
Lime
Mycorrhizae
Perlite

this is some of the recipes that I found http://www.growweedeasy.com/organic-super-soil

https://www.monstergardens.com/SuperSoil
Recipe:

8 - 1.5 cubic ft bags of high quality base soil
1 33lb. bag of Worm Castings
2.5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal
5 lbs. High Phosphorus Bat Guano
5 lbs. Blood Meal
2.5 lbs. Bone Meal
3 cups. Oyster Shell
3 cups. Kelp Meal
3 cups Alfalfa Meal
3/4 cup Epsom Salt
1 cup Dolomite Lime
2 cups Azomite
2 TBS powdered Humic Acid

I don't have and I can not find an Oyster shell and kelp meal, but it's not sou much of importance I hope...

I wonder whether if this kind of mixture will be too strong for autos
The strains are:
Dark Devil and Devil XL from "Sweet Seeds" Valencia, Spain.

If it were me, I'd cut the "meals" portions by 1/3...you can always top dress. You don't want soil so hot, it burns autos. They can be stunted or stressed if too "hot"/rich of additives.

Thank's man! I thought something like that would be better... This is my first attempt to make super soil, so It's not the best idea to be too much confident you know...

Cheers!

And what about acids and bat guano? is it too much of it in the recipe I post?

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=228020
or this one:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53792

Wow man! thank's for the shortcuts. Now I have something to read before bed
It helps a lot!

I would make a "Plug" of light soil to plant the auto in. When I use autos in super soil I will fill the bottom of the pot with super soil, then place a one or 1/2 gallon pot in the soil and fill around it. I then pull the pot out and put some regular out of the bag potting soil in the hole. Plant into that and it will give the young auto time to stretch it's legs before hitting the super soil.

The recipe you posted would benefit from putting in ten times as much dolomite.

I put dolomite in my breakfast cereal.

Dolomite lime fertilizer is certainly used in organic gardening. It is not inherently bad, but how it is used in the garden is often detrimental.

About pH.....the belief is that minerals in your soil are continuously being leached by rain or watering (when in containers) and consequently your soil is always moving towards more acidic.

Dolomite limestone is used to counteract this, to “sweeten” the soil. It can do that, but that doesn’t mean it’s good.

Minerals may or may not be leaching from your soil. If your soil is low in organic matter, which is often the case, it probably can’t hold onto minerals very well

Chemical fertilizers can cause a lot of acidity, so if you use them, that is part of the problem, too.

Whatever the cause, dolomite lime fertilizer is not the answer. Let’s look at why garden lime is probably not what you want.


The main point I want to make is that even if minerals are leaching from your soil, it doesn’t make sense to blindly go back adding just two of them (the calcium and magnesium in dolomitic lime) without knowing you need them.

Many biological and organic soil consultants would say your soil needs a calcium to magnesium ratio of somewhere between 7:1 (sandier soils) and 10:1 (clayier soils). Outside of this range, your soil will often have drainage problems, your plants will often have health problems and insect and disease problems, and you will have weed problems.

One of your most important goals in the garden is to add specific mineral fertilizers to move the calcium to magnesium ratio towards this range.


The problem with dolomite lime? It has a calcium to magnesium ratio of 2:1. That’s way too much magnesium for most soils. Magnesium is certainly an essential mineral. Too much of it, however, causes many problems, compacting soil, pest and weed problems.

You should only use garden lime when you have a soil test showing a huge deficiency of magnesium in your soil.

Even then, calcium carbonate (calcitic lime) is generally the way to go because it has a small amount of magnesium and often a calcium to magnesium ratio of about 6:1, with a calcium content of 30% to 40% or more.

Instead of dolomitic lime, I use calcium carbonate regularly added, but even then, only when I need it. Adding fertilizers based on the results of soil pH kits just doesn’t make any sense.

Opt for less additives and watch how your plant(s) respond. You can correct/add as needed. Too much, your plants can burn and many of the materials you listed cannot be purged quickly.

That's why I asked to clarify specifically for autos because all the recipes including sub cull's super soil are for photoperiodic plants.
Must agree with Aridbud about lime, but I very much like the idea for potting in your first post-Mr Jay.
P.S. Last time I eat lime was when I was about 2-3 years old! Don't put it in your breakfast man!

aridbud said:

If it were me, I'd cut the "meals" portions by 1/3...you can always top dress. You don't want soil so hot, it burns autos. They can be stunted or stressed if too "hot"/rich of additives.

Click to expand...

Cut meals by a 1/3 or into a third? (Use 1 cup or 2)?

aridbud said:

If it were me, I'd cut the "meals" portions by 1/3...you can always top dress. You don't want soil so hot, it burns autos. They can be stunted or stressed if too "hot"/rich of additives.

Click to expand...

Brother arid

Allways a pleasure to read your highly respected input maaaaaaaaaaaan

Fwiw +1,000,000 for what he said

Cut meals for one-third, like if its written three cups, you need to put two cups.

If it were me, I'd use 1 cup per instead of 3 in your "recipe". Unless you are making it for a very large garden.....often times, less is more >>>You don't want soil so hot, it burns autos. They can be stunted or stressed if too "hot"/rich of additives.

Thanks, bigganjabud, for your thumbs up. Some may agree, others not. After farming for 45 yrs, I've learned, you can nute burn them with too many ingredients.
Once you see how they respond, then add more.

This is what we have in our auto grow guide for those wishing to make their own soil....you notice, "easy".

Easy Organic Soil Recipe:
To make 1 cubic foot (7.5 gallons) of base soil:

1/2 part peat moss
1/2 part humus (compost and/or ewc (earthworm castings)- can do all compost or all ewc or some mixture of the two) Mushroom compost easy to obtain: HD/Lowes
1/2 + part aeration amendment (perlite or vermiculite)
1/4 part clean sand
3/4 cup lime (per cubic foot) (~6 cups for 7.5 gallons)

Nutritional amendments: you want to add about 2-3 cups total of all your nutritional amendments per cubic foot (7.5 gallons) of soil. Note that this means 2-3 cups total, a combination of all your nutritional amendments, not 2-3 cups of each amendment.
1 cup kelp meal
1.5 cups dry organic fertilizer

F...k!!! I was lost in translation Got it now! Thanks for clarifying that

Thank you sir

Aridbud, another question for you please...
I took your advice and made a mix with one-third of ingredients, but how long should I leave it rest (cooked)? Seance it's made with one-third of meals, does it need to be left for a month to 45 days also or it needs less time?

Yes, soils need the same cook time regardless of the volume of ferts. The microbes still take the same amount of time to break everything down.

When I plant autos in TLO soil I like to take a solo cup or 32 oz yogurt container and press it into the top of the pot/fill in around it to make a pocket. Then I pull the cup out and fill that hole with seedling soil. I'll plant directly into that pocket of soil. That gives the seedling time to mature a little before digging into the nute filled soil.

I try to avoid a transplant and plant directly in the finishing pot if I can, but transplanting works for some people. I still do it every now and then. We used to do tiered transplanting over at AFN where we would cut the bottom out of one solo cup and place it into another. Come planting time you just lift the inner cup out and plant it into the final pot without removing/stressing the plant. Works okay.

Of course, i assumed that but this is my first attempt so I mus ask to be sure. Thanks
I will make the pocket hole for seedling soil, it's the best way for autos definitely! I did try transplanting young plants before but direct planting works much better for me... It's just that I'm not used to use seedling soil. I used to plant the seeds directly in large hole or pot and compost, but this is all new game in comparison to what I was doing before...

I wanted to say that I just started to make compost teas and super spoil...