spiter mite problem. need some help.

#1cheesebuds

Well-known member

Veteran

• Jul 13, 2010

• #1

I did read through some of this.http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=171657

can I use organocide on me plants?
http://www.arborgrow.com/organocide.htm


I don't see any webs yet and I see 2-3 of em only on a few leafs.

so will this stuff work to help get rid of em.
I could get some ladiebugs but I read that they will eat each other and thered be a bunch of dead ladie bugs all over d place.

thax fo d advice.

 

mk6

Active member

• Jul 13, 2010

• #2

I have used organicide before and it only controlls-m, not a total killer, they came back.
I like the product for things like whitefly, or pm, and the fact its all organic...

if you want to kill-m for good, and not ever see-m again I would use folormite. not organic but it will work 100% - not knowing what stage your in, so added; I would not use it after 3 to 5 weeks into flower dependent upon the strain your running...

theres tuns of info on the borg as Im sure your reading now - hope you get a handle on it soon b/c these basterds multiply fast.

 

Justin_Credible

Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary....

Veteran

• Jul 13, 2010

• #3

For some reason I do not see too many peeps mention neem oil. I use once a week it all the way up until 5-7 days in flower.Takes me all the way to the end; usually. I have also read about floromite which people seem to be able to use successfully while in flower. Directions for using both can be found on IC and even the bottle if u purchase it. Hope this helps and good luck with it...they are named the "borg" around here for good reason....

 

A

airphat36

Member

• Jul 13, 2010

• #4

I'm trying to use Floromite in combination with pyrethrum to get rid of mites without having to bring my perpetual harvest to a halt. You cannot use Floromite during flower so I’m just using pyrethrum in my flowering room until I can harvest. I’m using Floromite on the moms and in the veg room.

I read to apply the Floromite in three applications three days apart. It is also recommended to use a wetting agent as I am using SM-90 with the Floromite. I also picked up a good pressure sprayer to apply to cover top and bottom of leaves. These mites laugh at Neem oil.

Floromite is $180 for 1 qt which is enough to mix hundreds of gallons. Expensive stuff but it must be done.

 

dustin27

Active member

Veteran

• Jul 13, 2010

• #5

Justin_Credible said:

For some reason I do not see too many peeps mention neem oil. I use once a week it all the way up until 5-7 days in flower.Takes me all the way to the end; usually. I have also read about floromite which people seem to be able to use successfully while in flower. Directions for using both can be found on IC and even the bottle if u purchase it. Hope this helps and good luck with it...they are named the "borg" around here for good reason....

Click to expand...

Hey bro, I just stared with the neem oil. How do you apply it?? Do you use a little dish soap and water in a spraybottle?

 

Justin_Credible

Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary....

Veteran

• Jul 13, 2010

• #6

dustin27 said:

Hey bro, I just stared with the neem oil. How do you apply it?? Do you use a little dish soap and water in a spraybottle?

Click to expand...

not sure but I think neem is neem...I follow the directions on back of bottle when I do it...I take the neem bottle and put it in a pot of hot, not boiling water. This makes it so it is easier to shake and mix neem together in bottle. 3 tablespoons (per gal of water) of warm neem and 3 tablespoons of eco friendly dish-soap. Ph'd at 5.8. Spray away man.

 

HASH GORDON

Member

• Jul 13, 2010

• #7

One word, one solution: AVID. Had problems......2 applications....no more problems.

 

Mr. Greengenes

Re-incarnated Senior Member

ICMag Donor

Veteran

• Jul 13, 2010

• #8

I'm with Justin on the neem. I've tried the cold pressed, but I went back to the commercial GreenLight product because I couldn't tell any difference. Both need to be shaken constantly to keep the oil mixed in the water. It's all in the mechanical aspects of application, I think. If you can really soak the undersides of leaves, you'll give them serious hell. Some people swear by hand rubbing, but I'm a tad skeptical about my fingers' ability to get between the veins on the under side of the leaf. I picture the little borgs laying flat in the trench and laughing at my sausage finger going by. Dipping is great too. You can hold a bowl under the leaf and dip each individually, holding the leaf under solution and swishing. Lets see them try to hide from that!