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creating seeds. links to threads / help ?

Iamnumber

Active member
Hi,

I tried to search for info on creating seeds, cultivation for seeds. English is a second language and I am fumbling for the correct term to use.

So I would like to know info on how many days (roughly) seeds should be allowed to mature after pollinating. What signs show that 'now you could cut the seeds out' and 'now you should cut the seeds out'. -- is it ok to cut seeds out after 4, 6, 8 or 10 weeks even if the 'pod' is still green? Should green and/or brown pods / seeds be allowed to ripen under light ? What is the standard procedure?



I tried to pollinate one female and grow another one with only pollinating lower branches .. top is not flowering properly (no swelling). Is plant just using energy to grow seeds (minor pollen contamination in upper branches too) or is something else keeping the flower in main stem from building up.

What spectrum of light is usable when creating seeds? Should I keep flowering photoperiod 12/12 etc. or do I have option to go back to vegetative photoperiod 20/4 etc.

My plan was to create seeds on the lower branches and flower the upper praches /main stem. As flowers are not developing (standard or maybe I messed up ??) .. I am considering my options.
* can / should I move the plants to vegetative space? maybe push the plant to re-veg for second flowering/pollination??
* amount and spectrum are very important for flowering. How important are they for pollination/seed generation? What spectrum (veg/flower) is important for seed generation. is there as strong correlation with amount of light given and results as there is in standard flowering?

thank you in advance for your advice and for taking the time to read this!! :tiphat:
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
12/12 unless auto-flowers

Unripe seeds suck. Be sure to have developed shells with no green parts. If in doubt, plucks a seed/calyx and check the bean. Also depends on when pollen made contact. It's not like pollen releases and fertilizes in one day unless you pollinated by hand.

Keep seeds dry, no light needed. Good luck!
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Welcome to the wild, wild, world of cannabis cultivation! :D

After pollination, seeds generally take 4 weeks to mature. They should be non-green and hard shelled. The flowers with seeds can be hung to dry for a week to two weeks, in temperatures below 75F, with humidity around 55%. When the flowers are dry, the seeds will fall out easily.

Quick seed recovery? Gently crush the dried flowers, to release the seeds. Place the broken flowers on one end of a shallow tray. Lift the broken flowers end of the tray about 4-5" off the table. Scoop some of the broken flowers up and drop them back on the tray. Give the tray a small wiggle and you'll see the seeds roll to the lower end of the tray. Repeat until all the seeds are at the bottom and all the broken flowers are at the top.

Heat rice in an empty skillet for 15-20 minutes to drive the moisture out of it. Let the rice cool and then pack the rice and seeds in an airtight jar. The rice will absorb the remaining moisture from the seeds and allow you to store them for years. ;)

Keep the light at 12/12, you'll want strong light for strong seeds. I have no idea what spectrum changes will affect seed production. :)
 

aridbud

automeister
ICMag Donor
Veteran
What they said, but for us, it's more 5-6 weeks for full seed maturity, seeds splitting the bracs. Some are light colored, others dark, depending on genetics/strain.
Good luck!
 

Iamnumber

Active member
Thank you all for the advice!!

pollinating was done indoors and by hand.

For fist run - I am happy on how AF turned out.

I will read more on breeding forum in order to pinpoint why my regular plants bracs are still so green. Size is good. Number is not so good but that might be due to me and how I performed the pollinating.

:thank you:
 

troutman

Seed Whore
Forget the exact number weeks after pollination to determine the seed maturity.

Just keep going until the calyxes go from green to brownish in color, dry up and start splitting.

The females plants will be basically dying by then and you'll get the maximum amount of good seeds.

If you harvest too early when the plant is still green and healthy you won't get as many good seeds.

If you need more info just message me.

I'm a Seed Whore and make seeds all the time. :biggrin:

This is what you're after.

picture.php
.
 

neongreen

Active member
Veteran
^^ that's good advice. The longer you can let them go, the better.

I've also finished ripening my outdoor seeds by bringing the plants indoors and using my vegging cab when it's gotten too wet/dull/cold outdoors, so there's no reason you can't switch the timer to something like 16/8.

I suppose there is a danger that the change in lighting schedule could stress the plants a little and maybe cause some nanners, but so far I haven't experienced that, and increasing day length should (at least in theory) give the plant more energy to put into the seeds.

I'm doing this for the second time, right now, and the seeded clones couldn't be looking better after nearly 2 weeks in the cab.

However, if you are trying to grow some bud at the same time, the bud might not mature to it's full potential, so you are better off staying on 12/12.
 
M

metsäkana

if the resin is ready seed should be ready if it catched pollen on 1-3weeks start of developing buds
 

Betterhaff

Active member
Veteran
I also dry the seeded bud before I remove the seed. Not sure if they are still growing or maturing at that point but have always had success when doing this.
 

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