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Small Little Black bugs?

budelight

Discovery Requires Experimentation
Veteran
Have you ever encountered anything like this?

What is it?
How do you treat it?
Will it hurt my plants?

Thanks....

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budelight

Discovery Requires Experimentation
Veteran
Could it be this?

Thrips

Thrips are really tiny, but can be seen by the naked eye. Some may have wings and some may not. Thrips reproduce rapidly, especially in tight places. That is what makes them hard to get rid of when using pesticides. The suck the sap right out of your plant with there piercing mouths, which makes the leaves look like they turned white. You can tell when you have thrips by taking a look at your leaves, the leaves will look as if there chlorophyll have been ripped right off the plant. Plants that are damaged can’t be healed thus making it harder for the plant to absorb light. SO if left untreated the thrips will kill the plants. Damage also can be seen by the greenish black specks of there poop they leave on leaves. Also the plants will show silver patchs from scar tissue. Depending on the severity at first, thrip damage might look like spider mite damage untill it increases in damage and then thrips case is for sure when you see the greenness replace with big parts of white.Thrips also can causes viruses to the plants and any larvae infected will breed more infected pests!. While they suck, the plants release honeydew which can contribute to mold on your plants. Adults have wings but do not fly well, but rather jump more. There are different kinds of Thrips, some more resistant to chemicals. Thrips can also carry plant pathogens in there mouths and carry it to other plants increasing the chance for your plants to get infected. . If your plants are affected during late flowering or close to harvest, please try to use the safest means of control to be safe to your health.
from - https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=163840&postcount=6
 
If you have thrips(WFT) I suggest you trash them, clean room and start over again.
Been battling them 2 months straight and have given up. Mine are immune to spinosad, azatrol, bombs, nukeum and will not go away no matter how much I treat. It will kill the adults but they breed after first pupate.
Have been using diatom earth on top of the soil last 10 days and they keep hatching out of the leaves.

Especially with damage like in your pictures you should start over. I'd bomb the room at least 7 days apart for 2 weeks before putting anything back in. And clean really well with bleach. Test with yellow sticky cards everywhere to make sure they are gone.

If you decide to clone any special ones you might want to reconsider because they can reinfect. Someone suggested dipping in hot water (115 to 125 degrees) for 1 minute to kill any in the leaves force out any hidden.

If you have a light colored floor they are easier to see. They jump like fleas when you try and crush them.

Here is a close up of the WFT. bugs from hell.
First 2 are the 2nd pupate hatch and when they jump like fleas on the ground and they can fly or glide at this stage. Third pic is the yellow card with black dots is the thrips after second pupate. They jump right on them. Have seen them try and hop off with success on older cards. Last pic is the flying adult stage. Think these are females.
 

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al70

Active member
Veteran
fu****g scary man what part o the world ya livin on, i'd hate ta come across these little b******s
 

vostok

Active member
Veteran
Use Neem Oil, 1 teaspoon to a pint hand sprayer, 2 times a day for 2 weeks, should kill these bugs and give some free mold protection too, don't use within 2 weeks of harvest as Neem is an acquired taste, later do it as a 1x time monthly chore to give great defense to bugs this time of year
 

Greenheart

Active member
Veteran
I vote neem oil as well. Just make sure you get 100% coverage. I'm not sure what the black spots are. A buddy of mine that ran a mite hotel had leaves like that. Thrips tend to leave small little trails. Mites leave tons of individual dots like a stippling effect.
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
just make sure you use PURE neem oil....not that hydrophobic crap...

good luck
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Read the thrip sticky in this Section. Soil drench will interupt life cycle. Dunk plants in bucket of Spinosad to get 100% coverage, then drench. Good luck. -granger
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Questions:
Can you tell how many legs?
Whats their movements like (fast, slow, do they like to hide or run away, etc)?
Anything else unique?
Can you get a close up pic?
What's the black dots, are they the bug or the crap from the bug?

Thrips leave behind poop and turn the leave into an ash/silver color until the leaf dies.

If you have thrips one of the best product is spinodad. It can be found in a product called dead bug brew. It's the byproduct of a bacteria that devastates thrips. But I would also suggest rotating other products into your IPM (integrated pest mgt).

I had thrips and did not trash the plants or even bomb the room. Spinosad did the job. And I used neem, sns217 and more but they'd come back. Thrips move quickly and will hide when spray. Spinosad gets ingested later when they come back out to feed and they die.
 

budelight

Discovery Requires Experimentation
Veteran
BUGS!

BUGS!

I found them finally. Sons of BITCHES!

Got my No Pest Strip on today.

Will No Pest Strips help or do i need to try Spinosad??

I'm going to hold off on buying neem oil right now as I want to do research on the pure vs hydrophobic
(hydrophobic means: Hydro=water & Phobic=fear; or "to repel or fail to mix with water")

Look what i spy...

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Greenheart

Active member
Veteran
Confirmed. Looks like both to me. (4th pic looks like a thrip the rest look like mites)

"pure vs hydrophobic neem oil". I've used the cheap Greenlight & GardenSafe neem solutions as well as the Dyna-gro pure neem. All have worked for me on both thrips and spidermites. It is all in the application. I can't say it enough. "Front and back of every leaf, stems, and soil every other day for a week. 100% coverage is the key." Make sure to clean the surrounding surfaces such as pots, walls, floors...

I do prefer the Dyna-gro it is a better product and does not include Pyrethrins or Piperonyl Butoxide (found in greenlight fruit tree spray which I have also used). For me it was a budget thing when I first started. NPstrips are your choice but after reading up on them I don't use them anymore.

I've never used spinosad but it seems like many folks speak well of it.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Yeah 100% spidermites and the pic mentioned by greenheart with the slender bug looks like thrips. I think you need a well rounded approach. Spinosad, neem, maybe other oils like rosamary and perhaps a systemic or powerful knock down too (are some safer than others so be safe when going into flower). Try to incorporate diff pesticides with diff modes of action. Put into rotation and be sure to not use more than label says per season, which is kinda like per cycle indoors.
 

Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
I am glad you are getting answers as I have only questions, sorry! I have big black bugs maybe 3/4 inch long crawling all over my cellar floor. I think when researching I discovered they are some black beetle from Europe and actually, shockingly in fact for an introduced species, actually beneficial. I hope so as I have many of them, along with centipedes and crickets with long back legs! :D anyway good luck man!
 

budelight

Discovery Requires Experimentation
Veteran
Hi again.

I haven't seen any bugs, but a few leaves did this... What do you think happened?

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Been picking a few leaves off this one plant every 4-5 days now, it just started 2 weeks ago. Which happened to be right before i flipped them to 12/12 (about 9 days ago)
 

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keep an eye out for root aphids. crawlers and flyers means aphids. Very small look like crabs. flyers look like fungus gnats. Look under 10X.
 

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