One thing I've noticed on this and nearly every other grow forum is the fact that pH and mixing nutes is rarely discussed in detail, even though it's the cause of most problems in the infirmary.
I will provide some tips. Feel free to jump in with your tips and suggestions.
1) pH should be between 5.0 - 6.0 with a maximum of 6.5. This is very important, as prolonged periods of a pH of 6.5+ will cause some nutrients to form permanent precipitates (meaning nutrients combine and form insoluble compounds that will clog your systems, and more importantly, become inaccessible to roots)
2) Raw water pH is inaccurate. Let water aerate and sit for 24-72 hours. As carbon dioxide leaves water, its pH increases, so measuring water right out of the tap is inaccurate, as the pH will swing up as the CO2 evaporates.
3) If you notice your pH is constantly rising, top it off at 5.0. This is a better safety margin than 5.8 - 6.0 - you don't want your pH jumping past 6.5, but you don't want to be monitoring it every 2 hours either.
4) Mix nutrients in a lot of water, stirring very well and waiting between each application. If mixing nutrients A, B and C in water, add A - stir well for a minute, then add B while stirring, keep stirring for a minute and then while stirring add C. Never mix nutes together without water as this can result in precipitates making nutes inaccessible to plants (nute lockout). A LITTLE water isn't OK either. Use a gallon at least.
5) pH strips are pretty accurate. Unless you can afford a good pH meter and are willing to maintain it properly, stick to strips or drops.
6) Adjust the pH of your water before adding nutes, and then re-adjust afterward. Don't add nutes into pH 6.6+ water (my tap water has a pH of 7 out of the tap, and then a pH of 7.8 after a few hours. I bring it down to 6.0 and then add nutes).
7) Don't mix nutes and pH adjusters directly in a reservoir. Spikes can have detrimental or even severe effects on roots. Do it in a separate container.
8) Use math and small containers to test out nute mixtures, so you don't end up wasting a lot trying to mix for the first time in a 50 gallon res. See the Jar Test.
9) Wasting and contaminating chemicals: If working with small amounts most of the time, consider diluting your pH up/down in a separate container to make things easier.
Store nutrients and other chemicals out of light and completely sealed. Instead of opening them every time you need them, if only using a small amount at a time, consider putting small amounts in smaller containers and keeping them readily available, and storing the rest somewhere dark/cool.
Never pour unused nutes/chemicals back into their container. This will contaminate the entire product. For example, if calibrating a pH meter using 4.01 solution, toss the solution out when you're done instead of putting it back into the bottle, no matter how clean you thing it is.
(note: these are general tips that may or may not apply exactly to your nutrient product. Be sure to read the labels on your products in regard to usage, safety, and storage.)
I will provide some tips. Feel free to jump in with your tips and suggestions.
1) pH should be between 5.0 - 6.0 with a maximum of 6.5. This is very important, as prolonged periods of a pH of 6.5+ will cause some nutrients to form permanent precipitates (meaning nutrients combine and form insoluble compounds that will clog your systems, and more importantly, become inaccessible to roots)
2) Raw water pH is inaccurate. Let water aerate and sit for 24-72 hours. As carbon dioxide leaves water, its pH increases, so measuring water right out of the tap is inaccurate, as the pH will swing up as the CO2 evaporates.
3) If you notice your pH is constantly rising, top it off at 5.0. This is a better safety margin than 5.8 - 6.0 - you don't want your pH jumping past 6.5, but you don't want to be monitoring it every 2 hours either.
4) Mix nutrients in a lot of water, stirring very well and waiting between each application. If mixing nutrients A, B and C in water, add A - stir well for a minute, then add B while stirring, keep stirring for a minute and then while stirring add C. Never mix nutes together without water as this can result in precipitates making nutes inaccessible to plants (nute lockout). A LITTLE water isn't OK either. Use a gallon at least.
5) pH strips are pretty accurate. Unless you can afford a good pH meter and are willing to maintain it properly, stick to strips or drops.
6) Adjust the pH of your water before adding nutes, and then re-adjust afterward. Don't add nutes into pH 6.6+ water (my tap water has a pH of 7 out of the tap, and then a pH of 7.8 after a few hours. I bring it down to 6.0 and then add nutes).
7) Don't mix nutes and pH adjusters directly in a reservoir. Spikes can have detrimental or even severe effects on roots. Do it in a separate container.
8) Use math and small containers to test out nute mixtures, so you don't end up wasting a lot trying to mix for the first time in a 50 gallon res. See the Jar Test.
9) Wasting and contaminating chemicals: If working with small amounts most of the time, consider diluting your pH up/down in a separate container to make things easier.
Store nutrients and other chemicals out of light and completely sealed. Instead of opening them every time you need them, if only using a small amount at a time, consider putting small amounts in smaller containers and keeping them readily available, and storing the rest somewhere dark/cool.
Never pour unused nutes/chemicals back into their container. This will contaminate the entire product. For example, if calibrating a pH meter using 4.01 solution, toss the solution out when you're done instead of putting it back into the bottle, no matter how clean you thing it is.
(note: these are general tips that may or may not apply exactly to your nutrient product. Be sure to read the labels on your products in regard to usage, safety, and storage.)
