THE DREADED RUSSET MITES???

could this be the dreaded russet - broad mites fucking this baby up?

it's in coco coir ph was always 5.8 the ec .1.0 ..nothing outta the ordinary then this starts ?? what am I looking at here? I see no bugs eggs or moving anything and I've looked hard..help if you can.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=73331

My plants have been looking like that for a while now so I just got a new 30x scope and pretty sure thats what I have. I had checked the broad mite thread for pictures of damage but it didnt look the same as my plants, but the few pics ive just seen of russet mite damage looks almost spot on, yours included.

I would get a scope asap and check the undersides of the leaves. Hopefully yours is just a nute problem but it looks very close to what Im dealing with.

With little plants like that do a 120f water dunk for 20 minutes followed up by a ipm with mycotrol, essential oils, gravedo,Indian neem, met52. Rotate with all of those then get some predatory mites.

You are better off trashing everything and clean clean clean. Pool shock treatment works wonders.

Even after that you have another problem to deal with. They can live with out food for over 6 months and will live on dried material. So your old flowers can have russets in them or your buddies flowers. So cleaning your room won't be enough, you have to clean everything. Heat treat whole rooms at 120f for twenty minutes, steam clean all fabrics like carpets and what not

Do you have the same oon the others ?

Looks like a spider (tarso) attack but it can be a genetic malformation or a stress too.
Check it well, if there is bugs, even if it's spider, you can see them.

Spraying everything with h2o2 kept them from coming back in my garden, steam cleaning didn't do the job and much more time consuming.

HQ are you talking about foliar with the pool shock?

king oscar said:

Spraying everything with h2o2 kept them from coming back in my garden, steam cleaning didn't do the job and much more time consuming.

HQ are you talking about foliar with the pool shock?

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Nope. The pool shock is for cleaning your room

SadgrowerinRio said:

could this be the dreaded russet - broad mites fucking this baby up?

it's in coco coir ph was always 5.8 the ec .1.0 ..nothing outta the ordinary then this starts ?? what am I looking at here? I see no bugs eggs or moving anything and I've looked hard..help if you can.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=73331

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It looks like broad mites to me. You need a very strong USB microscope to actually see them, and they like to hide from the light. This was confirmed broad mite damage, diagnosed after having to trash the entire grow.

HqFarms said:

Nope. The pool shock is for cleaning your room

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If you please, what rate of dilution did you use for cleanup I'm about to do this over the next few days after being plantless for 3 months. Thanks for the suggestion, as I use it in my cloner to prevent bacterial action, but never thought of using for cleanup, doh..

D3pthCharg3 said:

If you please, what rate of dilution did you use for cleanup I'm about to do this over the next few days after being plantless for 3 months. Thanks for the suggestion, as I use it in my cloner to prevent bacterial action, but never thought of using for cleanup, doh..

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Which percentage did you get

HqFarms said:

Which percentage did you get

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Calcium Hypochlorite 46.7%...thank you

Finally, people are getting aware of BM's and Russets. No one ever believed me, but all seemed to be having the same problem.

Ya gotta fight these things, they are resilient, and difficult,. Spider Mites cannot compare. Spider Mites are a walk in the park compared to BM's.

you cant win against them...they are insidious

will eggs and larvae stay alive & dormant in a room after 6 months? ...how about in a bag of weed?

Here's my story:

3 Light flower garden, 1 veg...

almost 4 months ago....Minimal infestation in veg and very minimal in flower room (I luckily spotted them early), there was not any visible damage to plants at this time in either room. The mites were even difficult to find on the clone they came in on due to lack of serious numbers.

Upon seeing the first wiggling 'bugle',(they look like bugles kinda, right), I completely shut down and threw out all plant material over 3 months ago. It bears to mention that even almost fully flowered plants were tossed. I did this as to not have to process/hang/store dirty material. All genetics were tossed (boo hoo), I'll get em back. This was 3 months ago. During the period of lights off I sprayed down the rooms 3 or 4x with Green Cleaner. My goal in this was to start-up with as little residual mite/egg remnants as possible.

Now I am ready to beboot. I am currently throwing away anything not needed or necessary to retain for start-up. The rooms will be swept, not vacuumed, to prevent blowing eggs around. Then I will be soaking to walls, floor etc with a 1-2 punch of 2.5ph Kangen water and then Pool Shock. Then maybe a run of the ozone generator to toxic levels. I've heard mixed reviews of the ozone gennies for pest eradication, but it cant hurt.

I'm hoping this will have done the trick. the next step in putting the plants back into the veg room, they have been biding their time in a quarantine tent thus far and are in major need of their rightful veg room. They will be sprayed upon re-entry. I have predatory blend of mites on the way to put in with the new plants after spraying. For some reason I feel this is a better option to prevent a potential re-flareup oven the next week than sprays designed to kill mites. Then back to my 2x a week IPM spraying of neem, essential oils, frass, etc.

While they are finishing in the veg area for the next couple of weeks I will be doing the same protocol in the flower room to prepare it.

Does anyone from the IC Mag fam have any input to offer? I greatly appreciate any suggestions. I will also keep you all posted in my progression and how my protocol worked.

Thank you all and best of luck to those in miteville...

even just a 30X jewelers loupe...I have 45x and 60X and they have lil LEDs on them...you gotta see exactly what you are dealing with...good luck..i second predators if possible...i went through years of spraying all kinds of poisons on them..go natural and let predator mites make a buffet out of the bad guys..DJXX

i second dj on that, theres a few different predator mites that chew on russet & broads..
theres no need to go so extreme and throw everything out etc...
the chances that you miss something and they return are higher than using a ton of predators.. i would spray each plant and cut with avid, 2 days later follow with potassium soap, essential oils & neem, repeat that 2-3 days later and if you want another time with Pyrethrin, by that time you will have killed at least 95%...
then put out 3 different kinds of predators
swirski
hypoaspis
Amblyseius californicus

hypoaspis will be digging in the soil looking for eggs, or dormant females, they are thorough! swirski will munch on the ones still alive.. same for californicus...

this approach is going to be much more cost effective in the long run and of course time saving.. not forgetting not loosing all your genetics...
hypoaspis will populate your grow and can live of other pests and can go without food for a few weeks...
they will even leave the soil and go munch on spider mites!!
to think that you will kill all pests and keep the garden pest free is naive, unless you run a sealed room with a air lock or something... not realistic
it just makes more sense to always have a constant supply of predators on patrol in the grow, that way pests cant get a foothold

~star~crash~ said:

you cant win against them...they are insidious

will eggs and larvae stay alive & dormant in a room after 6 months? ...how about in a bag of weed?

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you can my friend... it aint that hard really ... most likely yes, up to 6 months or maybe even longer... check my previous post

TnTLabs said:

you can my friend... it aint that hard really ... most likely yes, up to 6 months or maybe even longer... check my previous post

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i am...trying to learn...i had to shut my room down completely after my last grow due to broads/ or russett's...i want to fire it up again in the future...can't help wonder just how long the larve and eggs can stay hidden and viable in a room??...more the 6 months? these f*ckers can not live in suspended animation forever??? no one seems to now yet...this is what to look for > old pics

yep.... thats one of those 2.. maybe even both...
the problem is cause they are so small one detects the symptoms first and till one find out exactly what is going on, its too late too fix the problem...

i have had them for a while now, thinking i had won and nuked them away,
but they are everywhere and of course in nature.. now i am possitive its them, i am confident in winning and am already seeing good results...

you threw away all your plants?

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a little more info on the Hypoaspis.. now called Stratiolaelaps scimitus

‘Hypoaspis’ is a native species of soildwelling
mite, which feeds on small
insects and mites (e.g., springtails, root
mealybug crawlers, spider mites).
Adults are tan in color, less than 1 mm long (1/20th inch). They move rapidly over the soil
surface.
Use as a Biological Control
• Hypoaspis are used primarily to control young larvae of fungus gnats in the soil or
planting media (for information on fungus gnats, see Sheet 330). They also helps
control soil stages of thrips and may account for up to 30% of thrips control (see
Sheet 320). Hypoaspis do not control shore flies or moth flies, but will feed on other
soil organisms, such as springtails and root mealybugs.
• They have been used successfully in bedding and potted plant production, seedling
and cutting propagation, and poinsettia stock.
• They adapt well to the various growth media and capillary mats used in plant
production, but do not survive freezing or flooding conditions.
Monitoring Tips
Use a headband magnifier or 10-15 X hand lens to look for the mites in the top 1-2
centimeters (1 inch) of soil or growth media and at the base of plants.
Life Cycle
The complete life cycle takes about 18 days at 20o
C (68o
F).
• The sex ratio is equal, 1:1 females to males.
• Eggs hatch in 2-3 days into young nymphs
• Each Hypoaspis consumes 1-5 prey per day. It can also survive as a scavenger,
feeding on algae and plant debris.
Populations will naturally fluctuate throughout the growing season.
if you run a perpetual room they will establish themselves quickly!

i went through what everyone else went through...& it was too late by the time i understood what was happening...i did absolutely NOTHING (one mother plant i did toss),,

,believe it,or not they mostly stayed beneath canopy level on the flowering plants so i was able to finish...the sucked a lot of vigour & yield was not what it should have been,but still worth hanging in for ...after that i shut down the room...this was several months ago


room's still there i guess so are the f*ckers????

they are so different from spider mites...you CAN NOT see them