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Old 02-23-2021, 12:56 AM #11
RedBeardy5
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So I increased the temps to 85 and dimmed them to 20% and like clockwork they are starting to recover. I put the lights at 40% today and they drooped again. So my conclusion is the light is much more efficient that HIDs.
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Old 02-23-2021, 12:42 PM #12
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yes, you need all your ducks in a row to get your plants to handle modern LEDs, especially in veg.

Temps, soil temp, not rootbound, extra cal/mag, etc.
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Old 02-25-2021, 02:35 AM #13
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I think I'm kidding myself that I can put 600w inches above a meter. Any petiole the light touches is sprayed red, while the tops of buds can refuse to go any higher. I can combat the red with crazy amounts of Mg but then I get Mg patterns on the lower leaves that are hard grainy brown. I can't balance it.

In fairness I come from GreenPower son's at 1.7umol/j that would of put maybe 1.5umol/j down on a good day(shade and age losses). The 301H is talking 3umol/j so 400w is a third more. I'm trying for double. It was never a great idea. Though a 450w run did come in 25% under target so I'm reluctant to try that again. Though I recognise I'm doing this wrong.

450w has always seemed perky. An improvement over 400w that can be seen in a day. Beyond 450 I can't say I have seen any improvement at all. Keeping in mind it's not 18" up, it's more like 8 but spread


My lights are the R-spec blend and the sodiums were top notch in award winning shades (50p shades. Pro ultra something. 8 sides..)
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:11 AM #14
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Originally Posted by RedBeardy5 View Post
So I increased the temps to 85 and dimmed them to 20% and like clockwork they are starting to recover. I put the lights at 40% today and they drooped again. So my conclusion is the light is much more efficient that HIDs.
that is a good news
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