Originally Posted by MedBelgUsr
As I have slightly modified the main lines of the cobbing process that you shared, I'm wondering :
The sweating is done for my 2 cobs ( 24h in the Yoghurt device ) , and I have just removed the moisture located outside the cob, without touching the ties or peeking inside : the smell was leaving no doubts that everything was going fine.
In many of the methods, I see that after sweating, most people ferment at 25-30 C for 1 week, and then dry the cobs to let it age for month(s).
Personnaly, from what I've read, I have the impression that once the cob is dryer, it's not evolving much.
So instead of keeping the ferment phase to 1 week at a "high" temperature right after the sweating day, I went for a looooong ferment/cure by keeping the inside of the cob untouched in its vacuum sealed bag ( the inside of the vacuum bag has been dried ) and I plan to leave it 3 months of room temperature curing ( and I guess the inside of the cob is still very moist with the plants enzyme working slowly at 22 C ) .
I will be checking monthly the smell in vacuum the bag without opening the cob to leave the moisture inside the wrap. After 3 months, I will dry the cobs fully by opening them and leave them at open air in the dark until their outside shell becomes hard.
My question is : leaving the cobs all the time slightly moist for so long in its vacuum bag, have you heard other people doing it ? should I expect a reduction in any effects or terpenes profiles or, on the contrary, 3 months of curing with no external bacteria/molds will be good ?
I understand that aging/storing can me done for years, but is it desirable to let the enzyme work for a long time ( even very slowly with far than optimal temperature ).
Yes I have done it myself earlier in the development of this technique.
Whether or not it will be detrimental to the end product depends to a large degree on the moisture content of the buds starting the cure.
If too much moisture is present after the initial sweating 12 to 24 hrs for example it doesn't seem to matter what temp the cobs are kept at they compost not cure.
The resulting matter is usually foul smelling like ammonia and most unattractive.
It will once dried get you high but has a bad smell and taste and should be avoided.
The best smelling and tasting cobs are usually made with drier rather than moister buds.
The best gauge is if the storks still bend but dont snap and it will burn in a joint but go out if not constantly toked on.
Drier buds as described above can tolerate this type of cure and can be very nicely cured this way.
Dont read too much into the term fermenting in regard to this cure.
You can get a good cure without the initial sweat if the starting moisture content is right.
There is a good reason I say open the bags weekly dry the cobs and sniff the bags because most people use buds that are too moist. By checking weekly you can get more chance of hitting the sweet spot in the fermentation.
Once you have found it it pays to dry the cobs leaving only a slightly moist core and vacuum seal them to age at around 30c.
If its too cold the cure stalls and the buds just stop changing for the better.
I have had cobs made in our winter where the temps can go as low as 6c overnight and they just stay looking like pressed green buds.
Its an art form and takes a bit of practice but it is very rewarding once you see good results you will pick it up quickly as your enthusiasm will keep you wanting to get better and better.
The master curers I was fortunate enough to taste and see the wares of in Africa are true artists not every grower can reach their level of artistic expression.
Good curers are highly sought after in the tobacco industry I see no reason why it will not be the same in the pot industry.
Small artisan type growers can easily find a niche market as theirs cobs will sell themselves.