Anyone ever try high PPM CO2 for killing spider mites?

I just put another 5000 predatory mites in the mix. This is close to 300 bucks in preds for this grow.

I put 1000 on the barely infested crop and 4000 on the heavily infested crop.

I set the mite container caps (which holds most of the mites) right on the colas. Hopefully, they will, at least, clean up the bids a little.

17 days left.




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Wowsers uncle gadget. Good luck ringo!

Now, this is some fucked up shit.

I went down to check on my predators and I looked at one bud and the top was covered with the predators.... all stuck in the web of the 2-spotted and mostly dead or dying while the 2-spotted are feasting on them

What the fuck!!!!! I thought the preds were supposed to eat the 2-spotters, not join them for fucking dinner.

This is fucking bullshit.




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I've read the proper way to deploy predators is to identify the specie of mites you have, then talk with the pred supplier about your environmental conditions.This way they not only give you preds which actually eat your specific mites, if they can they'll offer you preds which are adapted to those conditions. I take it your supplier doesn't have this option?



Did you drop temps and humidity?

I have used 4 different kinds of preds on this grow. All designed to eat the 2-spotted.

I did not change the temp or humidity. It is currently 85F and 50% which should be fine for the preds.


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What the fuck.... the world hates me. LMAO

I asked a few posts back if anyone thought the mites would migrate from my drying tent to my current crop about 5 feet away.... and, how long would it take for them to get there.

A concurrent question was if anyone knew how fast a mite could travel.

Well, isn't it just my luck. Turns out the mite just took first place away from the Australian Tiger Beetle as being THE FASTEST CREATURE ON EARTH. LMAO What the fuck???

A Southern California mite far outpaces the Australian tiger beetle, the current record-holder for running speed as measured in body lengths per second. By this measure, the mite runs 20 times faster than a cheetah and the equivalent of a person running 1300 miles per hour. The discovery is exciting not only because it sets a new world record, but also for what it reveals about the physiology of movement and the physical limitations of living structures, the researcher says.

https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/04/140427191124.htm

I am also going to put some green peas in the mix and see if I can draw them together. Mites are supposed to LOVE pea plants. I don't have time for a plant but I'll get some fresh peas in a pod from the farmer's market tomorrow.

Another angle..... I have read that the mites can't take a temperature under 60F. If that's true, it's an easy task to chill my room to 55F or so. I'm sure that won't kill the plants for 24 hours or so. Lights out. Air on.

Anyone hear of chilling the mites to death? It won't kill the eggs but if I could only thin them out for now I would be thrilled.


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Mites breed stupendously quickly at 80F and above. You're seeing first hand what accelerated breeding conditions can do. Sorry the pred's are not enough.

What about the cold temp thing I posted above? Do they really die below 60F? I just opened all the A/C vents all the way. This should take it down about 10 degrees.

Also, I plan to fog with tralomethrin after harvest. Anyone know if that's good for these fucking 2-spotters?


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Trap plants?


One of the most commonly used trap plants is for the early detection of two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). Since mites are not able to fly, they are often missed by scouts who are focused on using sticky cards for monitoring pest populations. Two-spotted spider mite is often not detected until there is a considerable amount of damage to a crop. Bean plants are most commonly used as trap plants for two-spotted spider mite. Bean plants are one of the mite’s favorite food sources. The bean plants in many cases are more attractive then the ornamental crop itself.
Regular bush bean plants do very well at attracting mites. Bean seed is cheap and most ornamental plant growers have containers and growing media available so it is easy to implement a detection system.
Bean plants usually show signs of two-spotted spider mite damage much sooner than most other crops. For example, three or four adult mites on a bean leaf show the characteristic yellow speckling feeding damage on top of the leaf.
The same three to four mites on a New Guinea impatiens plant don’t show any initial signs of damage. It is not until there are many more mites on the plant that damage symptoms appear on the leaves. By that time it is much harder to control the overall population. In some cases the damage is so severe that the plants can’t be salvaged. Bean plants can be used as indicator plants in traditional pest management programs that incorporate pesticide applications.
For growers who are using biological controls, bean plants can act as both trap and banker plants. Banker plants are plants that are different from the primary crop being grown. Banker plants can assist in establishing, supporting and maintaining a population of one or more biological control agents. Predatory mites such as Phytoseiulus persimilis and Amblyseius californicus, and the predatory midge Feltiella acarisuga can be released as soon as spider mites are detected on bean plants.
Another benefit of trap plants is that for many crops the spider mites don’t migrate to surrounding plants until the bean plants show signs of over population. By the time this occurs, the bean plants have started to deteriorate from the damage.

Ive no experience with predator bugs but I heard they don’t like the short day used for flowering.

Bjorn to farm. said:

Ive no experience with predator bugs but I heard they don’t like the short day used for flowering.

Click to expand...

I recall reading that as well.

Preds are not the most effective treatment for sure. Maybe for prevention.

They are expensive as well.

I don't think these plants are going to make 2 more weeks. I may have to harvest early.




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I’ve used 3 types of Predatory mites in the same grow ,close to $400 worth and wasnt impressed one bit.I released em a week before flip.

If i go the same path again i would order bigger bugs, something like this:
https://www.arbico-organics.com/pro...-punctillum-adults-larvae/spider-mite-control

Or this
https://www.arbico-organics.com/pro...perla-rufilabris-predator/spider-mite-control

Released in veg.

I should have tried something else like that, before. Or, maybe ladybugs. I believe it's too late now. If I don't harvest these soon, I believe they will start dying. The leaves are so eaten, it's sad.

The lacewing is best for aphids, from what I have read.

I wonder if I'll regret trying ladybugs. I have read some ugly stories.


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I just ordered 3000 lady bugs. What the fuck. If I am going to smoke mites, I might as well smoke lady bug shit as well.


This blows donkey wang.

It's like a train wreck. I don't want to watch, but here I am rubbernecking. Best of luck ringodoggie.

Prepare to have ladybugs stuck in your buds and webs lol.I would stay away from them too.I’ve tried em numerous times,they’re just not active enough for me.

If you want to get rid of the mites, get a product called "wipe out for mites" and spray your plants in veg or in the first week of bloom. You will no longer have any mites.

Odd, there is a real noticeable lack of activity this morning. Not sure if it's the lowering of the temp 10 degrees or if the preds actually did some good.

The crop that was not real badly infested seems pretty darn clean. No mites on the top buds at all. I found a few on the leaves.

As for the infested crop.... I saw a bunch of eggs hatching but no crawlers on the buds. Plenty on the leaves, still. And, one bud had them partying on the top. I have been vacuuming the tippy tops of the buds to keep webs off and to suck up the few mites that seem to gather at the very tops to party. Let them party in the choking dust of my shop vac. Fuckers.

Maybe it was just too early. I'll check back later today.

13 days left.

I have a question for AFTER the harvest. I am going to nuke the fuck out of my grow area. Agent Orange, DDT, maybe some kryptonite.

If I use a strong killer like the hot shots or a fogger, will the carbon filters adequately filter the poison.

Reason.... I have no vents going to the outside. All my ducting is vented into my home HVAC return ducts. All my grow room air vents into my furnace filter and then into my house.

Will a carbon filter work on pyrethrins?

Neat and epic thread.
Looking forward to filtration detours and the next round up.

Still a noticeable reduction in activity. Perhaps the 10 degree temp difference did it. Or, the preds actually thinned them down. I have ladybugs coming Thursday. Harvest next week.

What do you guys think of this....... I dry my harvest in a 3x5 tent where I can keep the temp and humidity perfect for drying. Done it this way for years.

When I dry this crop, the mites are going to move to the fresh crop growing in the tent 5 feet away in search of fresh food. I will be harvesting the other crop a week later so I just need to keep the mites contained for a week or so.

I was thinking about laying a layer of fresh leaves on the floor of my drying tent. This way, any mites that fall to the floor will stay in the fresh leaves rather than migrating to the tent next door.

I can keep replenishing fresh green leaves on the floor of the drying tent for a week (from the other crop that is still growing strong). As for mites that climb to the top of the drying buds.... I can vacuum those.

Anyone else think that's a decent idea?