Insect Frass

Mr. Krinkle said:

yup - i tried some sample bags of it but it's too expensive otherwise - i don't think it's worth it

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chitosan i been doing alot of research on it for its SAR effect. i dont think its to expensive,especially if it saves my crops from botrytis cincerna. that shit took pounds off my last year. 60$ to save 21 plants is a very cheap investment imo. im a guerilla grower so i cant have the perfect enviroment. chitosan is the active ingrediant in bud factor x as well which is why it works so well,but i seen some reveiws last nite a guy did a side by side with frass and BFX and the frass won. the trichs are freakishly long when the frass is used. which makes sense bc it activates the plants own immune system and trichcomes are part of its defense. i will for sure keep chitosan in my stable and will never not grow without it again. chitosan also inhibits botrytis cinerna aka bud rot spore from being able to germinate by bursting the outer cell wall. i will be trying Chitosan oligosaccharide powder which is alot more potent then exoskeleton of crustaceans and insect form. i already bought the frass so i will mix in the soil. i will use the powder in folair sprays. its alot cheaper then frass and crustaceans as well.


How does the level of THC in marijuana increase?

As the level of THC production up to a marijuana plant is defined by their genetics, you can not increase your level beyond the breaking point, however, maximum production is rarely achieved; then it is possible to stimulate the plant to reach its optimal level of production. The goal is to increase resin production in the plant, which will increase the total amount of THC.

For that we can, for example, practice a slight water stress at the end of flowering. Dryness favours the formation of the ground resin.

Cannabinoid extraction
Cannabinoid extraction



As the resin is the primary means of defense of the marijuana plant, we can optimize production stimulating the systemic acquired resistance of the plant with the help of stimulating natural defenses (SDN). We can mention, for example, exogenous elicitors as laminarin, oligosaccharide famines seaweed extract (Laminaria digitata) or chitosan from crustacean shells.

There are also mimetic molecules and enhancers like phytohormones, such as Methyl jasmonate derivative Jasmine essential oil, or salicylic acid or abscisic acid. To finish we can use stimulators of vitality, such as vitamins B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), and C (ascorbic acid).
http://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/cannabinoids-and-their-medicinal-properties/
"Chitosan is a one of the most abundant natural amino polysaccharides extracted from the exoskeleton of crustaceans and insect, from fungal cell walls"
http://medcraveonline.com/APAR/APAR-01-00006.php

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2866471/

Conclusion
After various recent research findings, chitosan has applications in numerous fields, as described in many review articles. This naturally occurring molecule with interesting antimicrobial and eliciting properties has been getting more attention in recent years. This molecule can be used in a number of ways to reduce plant disease levels and prevent the development and spread of diseases, thus preserving crop yield and quality. The potent effect of chitosan on plant diseases control is from its antimicrobial properties and plant innate immunity elicited activity. The antimicrobial activity is influenced by several factors, such as MW, DDA, solubility, positive charge density, chemical modification, pH, concentration, chelating capacity and type of micro-organism. Chitosan has also become a postharvest promising treatment for fruits due to its natural character, antimicrobial activity and elicitation of defence responses. In spite of the chitosan advantages, the poor solubility of chitosan is the major limiting factors in its utilization. Therefore, several researchers have started to modify a chitosan molecule to produce high-antimicrobial active derivatives COS. Our review suggests that chitosan and COS can be used as potent antibacterial molecule in biological systems.

I know it's a dated thread but I'm going to pick up a bag next time I'm at the store. I like the idea of naturally occurring chitosan over acid treated crustacean shells. Anybody else have any new experience with using chitosan in the past couple of months?

Added 2 cups in a nylon bag and put it in my ebb and grow reservoir (filled to 40gal). After the first feeding, solution got very foamy. Hopefully let you guys know if trich or aroma explode off the charts here in a few weeks.

I mix crab meal in with my coco. Not sure how much it helps, but plants seem happier. Used to use insect frass but crab meal way cheaper, n has uh lil mo nitrogenwqirh a 4-3-0 ratio which i think bennefits my particular nute regimen. Insect frass has a 2-2-2 for anyone wondering.

a little secret with crab meal or insect frass is make sure you use a good amount of worm casting in it, as it natural chitinase which is the enzyme that begin to break the chitin down. Then it will begin to bread microbeasts that feed on the chitin. soft body insects are made of chitin, so you will go a long way in pest prevention and control by composting these combinations in your soil ahead of time. Second option is sprinkle a little crab-shell at the bottom of your buckets with your rocks, add a little High Nitro or balanced NPK dry nute in with it. Top dress with worm casting and insect frass at the end of week 3 or beginning of week 4. Composting the crabshell with good amounts of worm-castings aslo promote the release of the nutrients that are in the crab-shell as you'll see crab-shell will take a long time to break down without ample worm castings present. Chitin and Chitinase in my opinion are the two biggest things overlooked in organic farming. It does a lot for the plant and soil in so many different ways. I will never grow without it always at the front of my mind of making sure i keep those inputs consistent. I haven't seen an aphid in two years after starting using composted soil with crab shell, i went from being over run to seeing none in six months of switching over to the composted soil. i see fungas nats everywhere but happy plants and a diverse living soil that seems to take care of itself. All i have to do is keep the mites off them at this point living in a dry dusty area. But because i really am only having to actively treat for one above ground pest while my soil takes care of itself. I only use organocide, espoms salt, neem, kelp, and water to spray my plants. I use a lot of cold water in veg to just keep the plant clean. hope this helps someone.

truck said:

a little secret with crab meal or insect frass is make sure you use a good amount of worm casting in it, as it natural chitinase which is the enzyme that begin to break the chitin down. Then it will begin to bread microbeasts that feed on the chitin. soft body insects are made of chitin, so you will go a long way in pest prevention and control by composting these combinations in your soil ahead of time. Second option is sprinkle a little crab-shell at the bottom of your buckets with your rocks, add a little High Nitro or balanced NPK dry nute in with it. Top dress with worm casting and insect frass at the end of week 3 or beginning of week 4. Composting the crabshell with good amounts of worm-castings aslo promote the release of the nutrients that are in the crab-shell as you'll see crab-shell will take a long time to break down without ample worm castings present. Chitin and Chitinase in my opinion are the two biggest things overlooked in organic farming. It does a lot for the plant and soil in so many different ways. I will never grow without it always at the front of my mind of making sure i keep those inputs consistent. I haven't seen an aphid in two years after starting using composted soil with crab shell, i went from being over run to seeing none in six months of switching over to the composted soil. i see fungas nats everywhere but happy plants and a diverse living soil that seems to take care of itself. All i have to do is keep the mites off them at this point living in a dry dusty area. But because i really am only having to actively treat for one above ground pest while my soil takes care of itself. I only use organocide, espoms salt, neem, kelp, and water to spray my plants. I use a lot of cold water in veg to just keep the plant clean. hope this helps someone.

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Thanks for the info truck

What's the application rate if i want to add it to my reservoir? I run coco dtw and don't want to top dress it. I have some bubbling over night right now but I am not sure if I added too much or if I am bubbling it too long. I added 3 cups to 12 gallons of water that will be bubbling for 24 hours, oh and I also added some molasses.

I did not see anyone mentioning how much should be mixed with cubic foot of soil. I am thinking about using 1/2 cups per cubic foot of soil. Is this ok ammount? I also use neem meal and kelp 1/2 cups per cubic foot of soil and alfafa 1/4 cups per cubic foot of soil.

who dat is said:

I know it's a dated thread but I'm going to pick up a bag next time I'm at the store. I like the idea of naturally occurring chitosan over acid treated crustacean shells. Anybody else have any new experience with using chitosan in the past couple of months?

Click to expand...

I'm using shrimp and crab meal as well as insect frass, bokashi, and biochar.

very stoked with how my flowrs are looking, smelling and smoking this crop.
never had a harvest without PM pressure on these clones before.

Sour Dubb


SFV


Kak's Jack