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Old 11-26-2016, 10:54 PM #31
FRANKIE1579
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King cola you did not have fusarium. H202 or any disinfectant will only kill whats on the surface not a systemic disease. I was using Zero Tol 2.0 at a 1:100 dilution rate. That's 38 ml a gallon of 27% H2o2 plus 2% Peracetic Acid. Zero Tol retains its oxidation potential for 5 days in a reservoir as opposed to 12-24 hrs with Peroxide. This stuff is hydrogen peroxide on steroids. As a preventative, sure. I was not feeding with organic nutrients or molasses. I was using the ag world's best systemic products preventatively such as Heritage and Clearly 3336 in a well rounded IPM strategy. At least I thought it was.That's how I got this problem in the first place. My rooms were sterile. However once fusarium got a foothold, there was nothing to out compete it. I am not making that mistake twice.

KONY i somewhat agree, however the information is all freely available online in peer reviewed papers, not just on cannabis forums. Reason why I am here is I am interested in people's first hand experiences, and I would like to share the process of what hopefully works for me as it did for several others here.

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Old 11-26-2016, 11:00 PM #32
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And King Cola, thank you for your reply, but the absolute worst thing you can feed a plant with fusarium is Ammonical nitrogen, something contained in most synthetic nutrients.
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Old 11-26-2016, 11:55 PM #33
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chitosan oligosaccharide and MEJA

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Old 11-27-2016, 05:00 AM #34
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Hi Storm Shadow, thanks for that....I was looking into some other sources for the chitin but would love to get the concentrated version. I saw the link you posted on another topic...I think I'm going to order it, which one of these three products have you used and what PPM/amount per gallon are you using it at if you don't mind me asking? And I couldn't find any info on "Super Saiyan Blue"? Haven't heard of it

https://www.bestchitosan.com/e_produc...accharide.html

On an unrelated note, have been doing some thinking. We have always utilized negative air pressure for odor control. But the more I think about it, that's the most likely source for a reinfection. Yes I can put Hepa Filters on the intakes all I want. That will cover 95% of the airflow. But there is still a small percentage of air getting in from outside unfiltered sources. I see that as the most likely source of reinfection, as well as bugs. I was always taught negative air pressure, negative air pressure, but that was due to security concerns.

Reading several articles it seems positive air pressure is an effective means of pest/pathogen control. They can't get in unless brought through a mechanical source such as humans or equipment.
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Old 11-27-2016, 07:18 AM #35
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doneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nicedoneit is just really nice
Well...
When i say we tried everything i mean just that..
Complete sterilization of everything, every know fungicide from alliette to ridomil... ran sterile systems ( bleach ).. Beneficial bacteria's like CAPS biowar... god the list goes for ever...

I have read also about the chitosan and am intrigued... Personaly dont think its the fix but my guys would be willing to give it a shot..

So please Storm shadow... elaborate some more on these products and where to obtain them??

Thanks fellas... and good luck to us all!!!
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:38 AM #36
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Hey doneit thanks for the reply, I don't want to come across like I know everything, I most certainly don't, I mean s**t I have this problem right now lol.

Aliette has close to zero action against Fusarium crown and root rot. It is only effective against certain foliar version's. Ridomil Gold and most copper based fungicides are close to useless against Fusarium as well. So is subdue maxx which I've seen mentioned a few times on here for fusarium.

This is a useful chart which has come in handy for me several times.

https://www.greencastonline.com/pdf/o...haseposter.pdf

Their rating are based on multiple studies on multiple crops for every pathogen root and foliar you can think of.

The link for the products storm shadow mentioned is in my previous post. I just got to work out application rates.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:49 AM #37
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One other thing, look at this graphic. I do not believe running a sterile res can even prevent fusarium. This chart has the kill ratios across multiple PPM of chlorine. Notice that when the PPM goes below 3, and that's free chlorine, the population starts rising again? It's sitting in bleach, and still growing lol. That's how fucked this pathogen is. Anyway, if you were to try running at 4 PPM constantly you would never get it. But your plants would be dead within a week. Even at 3 PPM, then you would have bleached phytotoxic plants, and fusarium lol. Long story short sterile doesn't seem like it can work.

Solid circles = survivors
Open circles = free chlorine concentration

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Old 11-27-2016, 08:58 AM #38
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And just for the hell of it, compare that to Pythium. 14 times easier to kill. So we got pythium but 14 times stronger which also likes to shoot more of it all across your room rather than just being nice and spreading in the water. That's why this s**t is so hard to kill.

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Old 11-27-2016, 09:34 AM #39
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I had lab confirmed fusarium spp oxysporum. Fusarium oxysporum is systemic / clones from infected mom will always have it.

Crazy thing is, plants or mothers that are infected in veg don't look that bad, they will just never get that healthy dark green / shiny look to the leaves. Usually decline in plant health will start rapidly around week 3 in flower on infected plants.

I fixed my problem by spraying a pure bleach solution on the walls / mopping the floor with pure bleach. I heated room to 150f for about 45 mins after the cleaning. Painted all surface areas with zinsner.

Switched to organic growing principles and problem pretty much went away. I have noticed that having healthy plants at all stages is the most important, and it starts with your moms. Most growers don't put the effort in to keep moms in tip top shape.

Dip healthy cuttings in a strong mycostop solution before you even plug them into rapid rooters. Make sure your not just 'organic' but your soil is balanced as close to albrecht ratios as possible. Give your plants the trace minerals it needs in the soil or by foliar spraying..zinc, copper, manganese etc. Try not to let EC drop or fluctuate to much- keep things stable.

I used Em1 a lot at first but switched to weekly Tainio spectrum drenches since it's got all kinds of different beneficials instead of just lacto.
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:38 AM #40
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Chitosin alone won't cure a plant from fusarium, and chitosan wont prevent fusarium if your soil is all out of wack. But chitosan is awesome and everyone should use it, just don't plan on fixing your problem with chitosan alone....
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