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Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work! Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-03-2016, 01:26 AM #421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robrites View Post
Anyone ever tried this stuff?

Met52® EC
Target pests: Root aphids, thrips, whiteflies, vine weevils, aphids, russet mites, two-spotted spider mites, broad mites, blemisia!
Met52® EC is a fungal spore that effectively control pests with a contact infection. This beneficial microorganism is easy to use and works fast - controlling insects in 3 to 7 days. Met52® EC offers outstanding plant protection for many crops, including greenhouse ornamentals, protected vegetables, and outdoor fruits and vegetables.

Key benefits of Met52®

No known insect resistance
Duration of action: one full growing season
Won't harm your beneficial bugs
No toxicological classification
No chemical residue or harvest restrictions

https://www.evergreengrowers.com/met5.../met52-ec.html
met52, or Metarhizium anisopilae is a soil born fungus like pfr 97. It would be good to hear from those that have tried both for a comparison. Seems logical that it would show up in testing for contaminants though if testing will be done on the end product.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:33 AM #422
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Yeah I've heard about places in Berkeley/Oakland refusing to accept any herb with basillus thuringiensis on it! How crazy is that? Keeping out the outdoor vendors or what?

No one acrually thinks organic controls are hindering "the product" do they?
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:30 PM #423
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Sulfur is an industry go to (talking real horticulturalists here)...It works almost as good as Abamectin. Problem is too much Sulfur makes the plant harsh smoke. 1 treatment is like enough S for the entire crop and you need to do something like 5-10. High levels of S will increase acidity and leaching which is "bad" for the environment in some peoples eyes.

Careful with all this. I swear what I thought was broad mite wasn't mite at all as I am now getting better treatment not even spraying or doing anything that would directly effect a mite of any kind. If it is a mite, its an eriophyd that is dependent on some kind of microbe/virus infection and my treatments are combating the infection and not the mite.

Predatory mites only work in closed canopy. They don't perform well on full buds with 12hrs of light. You need continuous release. Looks like its swirskii for that atm. I've released multiple very high numbers (1000 per 100sqft) with out proper control.

The fungi will taint your crop with oil. You must spray continuously every 3 days to keep up with mite. It has about the kill rate of insecticidal soap. Maybe spray fungi then soap then fungi then soap then fungi then soap then water. The fungi reduce predator efficacy by direct contact and ingestion of infected prey.

If you want to feed facultivative mite predators, corn pollen.

EO sprays tend to create spray toxicity issues. They are about as good as straight soap sprays.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Avinash.miles View Post
timm, have you tried essential oils for killing broads/russets.?? have you tried wettably sulfur sprays (i used garden fungicide from safer brand) i haven't used oils myself against bms'/hrms (but have been killing all other pests with essenstial oils), but i know people who have and they report that oil mixes can wipe out broads...
just saying, don't go all "nothing organic will work" unless you have tried all the organic options.... not just heat and spinosad available in the organic arsenal. also, i DID use wettable sulfur spray to kill HRM's when i had them, and that IS organic...

edit: also pfr & met are biological/organic right?
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:15 AM #424
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Sulfur then rotating pfr and essential oils then releasing swirskiis killed these fuckers off for good here
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:11 AM #425
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:45 AM #426
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I thought I had broads but it looks like tomato russets or hemp russets. Either way, these guys were resistant to everything.... avid, akari, pylon, forbid didn't do it. I'm sure I got it when I put a plant outside last year and brought it back in. My tomatoes looked like shit.

I got both Met52 and Botanigard. My entire yard was screwed. Lemon and Orange Trees, vegetable garden with peppers and veggies, magnolia tree.

I started applying Met52.... within 10 days everything turned around. I still find eggs, but new growth looks fantastic. Indoors, everything looks great. Scorched shit with Essentria IC3 which I threw in the trash.

I am now only using Met52, Botanigard and Master Nursery Pest fighter oil. So far, it's looking really good. All surfaces were cleaned with 10 % bleach and repainted when possible. New liners on floors etc. Also burned sulfur before painting.

Met52 got it faster. Started every other day, then every 3 days etc. Outdoor in SF Bay Area seems to be faster because of morning fog and high humidity.
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Old 08-26-2017, 03:26 AM #427
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Also. It's very important to thorough mix. I add a teaspoon of safers soap per gallon. It's been great. If you don't stir thoroughly it won't disperse and be as effective.
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:27 AM #428
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why isn't this thread a sticky? I got some weird ass stuff on the underside and overside of a few leaves, thought broad mites but can't see any, maybe egg cases of hatched mites?



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Old 07-05-2018, 01:22 AM #429
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Looks like broad mite eggs.
They have that crazy thing in the middle.

If essential oils are diluted properly
And not sprayed in direct light,
They will not harm the plant.
(From what I have seen anyway)

Heard insect frass mixed with compost tea to be used as dilute foliar spray to kill mite eggs.

Anyone know which frass to use or not use?
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:45 AM #430
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