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Old 01-15-2019, 05:46 PM #31
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Is there a greater light to heat output when the chips are dimmed, or is it linear?

What is the input temp of the water you're using in your math? At this point I have no idea how much cooling can be easily/efficiently provided. lol If I had something which used water all day anyway, I could use it to keep a coil cold. The tap water seems to be cold all year round here.
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Old 01-15-2019, 08:01 PM #32
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What about using long extruded aluminum heat sinks, then attaching an aluminum U-channel over top of it? Sealed together, they make a long, water-cooled heat sink when water is pumped through it. I'm thinking deep fins like this one here.

I'm mulling over ways to end-cap it efficiently, so water flows through all fins properly. Air bubbles are a known issue with water cooling. Cutting the heat sink at an angle would probably work. This would allow a small water gap in front of the fins, and a sloped surface to reduce turbulence.

Have to keep in mind, all additional resistance means needing additional pump pressure. Even messing around, I like to keep things efficient. lol
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Old 01-16-2019, 04:24 AM #33
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Ive always wanted to make a small scale aluminum foundry.. people give away aluminum car rims/scrap all the time around here.. pop and beer cans would take longer to aquire but could be used as fins if you used enough of them attached to blocks. I was wanting to make aluminum siding and roof shingles and a few other things. Just an idea if going into production.

Could make a mold for water channeling bars that slides right into one of those 2x1 tubes, with minimal machining. Also one for the caps set up for the fittings to be glued on the ends.. Seems like a good way to go if producing a quantity of linear 2x1 aluminum water blocks in your back yard.



On another topic, ive been saving tall arizona ice tea cans and used pvc sewer pipes to make heat recovery ventilators for my grow trailer. Multiple pvc/can cores with a manifold instead of 1 long tube. The units can be scaled up while only taking 4 inches of wall space, or even integrated into the wall itself!. Saving 1000's of dollars compared to a commercial HRV unit with a smaller cross flow cores using plates, etc.

I would love to integrate a water loop/radiator into my design somehow, and gives me even more incentive to play with a water cooling/heating system.

As of now I only plan to use a single res to cool 2 RDWC and an aero/nft/swc system all with one modded AC unit to chiller. Possibly hooking up icebox exchangers in the flower room to the same res too, or even geothermally into the creek. We got an excavator and i could dig a ditch for a loop as well. So many ideas, so little time these days :(
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:28 AM #34
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Awesome!

I hope it works out for you. Start a thread when you hook up the icebox exchangers for sure
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:15 AM #35
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I was back reading through the screw-in LED thread, and seen a post where I asked about using just the PCBs that SIL's use and a seperate ballast, and clicked on the link from jonhova which led to your own post about remote ballasting.

And there it was: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgRmZkZWHmM

A link from HuffnPufferfish with a guy that already water-cooled COBs with the 2x1 aluminum.

Did you miss that too? lol




I
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:23 AM #36
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Dude is cooling 3.2kw with 4 bars , I'm sure you can get away with .3kw on 3 bars that are a few inches shorter.

Said he paid 120 bucks for that thing?. Also says its not the right kind of lights for growing on a comment, which leads me to believe he doesn't know what he's even talking about, but pretty sure he could grow some fine plants if he hung it up like 12 feet over a large area!
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:46 AM #37
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You notice he doesn't use a driver. He rectifies the 120ac to give himself 170v, then puts a number of the 100w (actually 50w) chips in series. I need 10 citizen 1212's for my 379v rectified supply. It's been on my mind a while. Use a 'clean mains' type extension lead to avoid spikes, and it should work. You couldn't plumb 10 in series though, as uneven temps lead to uneven voltage. I thought up a few rough ways of current monitoring that could add a further led to reduce the power. Nothing great though.


I have found some little led 'barn' type lights.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-220V-LE...YRUE:rk:8:pf:0

Available at 30w 50w 80w and 100w, they consist of a linear array, smart chipped cob, placed in a typical barn shaped reflector.

Now I look at these completed units and think a few rivets and some thin alloy sheet... These must suck. But then, these are waterproof units, that won't cook if simply used as they are. But they are crying out for better cooling. If fixed along a cool tube of water, a lot of the heat energy would head that way. The top could be made flat, buy taking the rivets out, and moving the power flex. And assembling with thermal epoxy or plaster instead. You could even fix the lights to a square tube with U bolts. So they can be moved about.

While not entirely water cooled, a lot of the heat would head to the water. But you wouldn't fear turning the water off or down, when you did actually need some heat.

Using 100w variants, you may need just 4 per meter. So that's just two runs of pipe.

Refining the plumbing further, I would use 20mm2 but use two not just one. Put them together like a 20x40 tube with a center wall. To keep plumbing at one end, and the temperature similar at every fitting. As the water goes up one, and down the other.



I'm still looking at the copper pipe and T piece method. Using lots of 10w (or even 3w) cobs, straight off the mains electricity. The 380v I have is a lot of 9-10v leds, so is no small project. But site transformers give 55-0-55 and pc power supplies are a very well regulated 12v and 500w units cost $10. Maybe I should get this hefty 12v and use a number of voltage regulators, for batches of 10v leds. A pack of 10 3w cobs is just £1 and a 3w cob could be just glued to a round copper tube (if I'm feeling lucky)
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:46 AM #38
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I think the copper and Tee's, with a cheaper thin copper sole (like my drawings) then just bonded to a thicker aluminum plate could work good.

All the plumbing on one end with doubled up tubing would be nice!..

And for the 3w cobs, maybe you could slightly file a flatter surface onto a coupler , instead of the actual pipe itself for a more secure fit.





Off topic again but I been thinking lately about using free and flea market stainless steel pots ( with another plastic tub inside like a displacer so the water stays to the bottom and sides of the pot) in another bucket with bulkheads, instead of forking out $60-150 bucks on a 25-50ft 3/8 SS tube coil from a beer brewing supplier for external chiller coils. Either that or just use standard SS tube (non coiled up) and use hose fittings on the ends to make the bends fit in my reserviors.

I got 4-5 different hydro systems, and possibly my flower room with DIY icebox radiators to chill in the summer, and only want to use one single chiller unit ( a modified 10k btu window AC with the condensor dunked) with a single res. I don't wanna fork out for that many wort chiller coils, any ideas in that department?
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:35 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drop That Sound View Post
I was back reading through the screw-in LED thread, and seen a post where I asked about using just the PCBs that SIL's use and a seperate ballast, and clicked on the link from jonhova which led to your own post about remote ballasting.

And there it was: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgRmZkZWHmM

A link from HuffnPufferfish with a guy that already water-cooled COBs with the 2x1 aluminum.

Did you miss that too? lol
Yes, I completely missed this one. LOL
I was thinking this would be a solid project, doable with short rail runs. I look at the tiny blocks used in cooling 100w CPUs and knew it was doable. Water IS about 4 times more conductive to heat than air.

He only talks for a bit about how hot the water gets in the bucket, lol I can't imagine running it for long without a radiator. Looking at the ends of the aluminum channel makes me wonder about better ways of capping them.

Thank you for posting this.

Great information everyone, I really appreciate the details.
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Old 01-30-2019, 07:50 PM #40
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^^ the ugliest led build ive seen yet
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