so back to frankie1579 was saying towards the last post, almost indicating he would give his method/findings/actions with payment maybe. one can only speculate his motive... maybe trying to market his own product eventually. not sure.... either way if it helps someone out down the road its a positive thing.
First. Calling frankie1579 a selfish piece of trash in the end. Why? its quite simple..... He starts a thread here seeking information an requests help from others. For a bunch of posts he does provide usefull information,as do others, but then in the end he suggests he is withholding information. Chooses to be selfish an announces he is witholding new information that could be helpfull. SHAME on you frankie1579, this is why we still should have negative rep!!!! Post 77, paragraph/ line 4
bottom line, we need to learn, an lately i find myself reading from the greenhouse big agg industry and university papers
something noted in my readings of ag papers, noted that certain fungi/spores/pathogens if u will, thrive in higher nitrogen environments. now there are 3 different types of nitrogen. one of the possible accelerators of the spores could be linked to the type of nitrogen. there is nitrate, ammoniacal an urea.
so if your veg nutrient is high in these ammoniacal or urea nirtogen, u may be feeding the problem so to say...
again i am not a horticulture botanist or scholar by any means. im wondering if ammoniacal an urea type nitrogens speed up/ feed / help reproduce the spores we are seeking to destroy. this nitrogen i believe will supply the plant with the fastest nitrogen. an because of that, it is most likely the easiest source of food for the fusarium spores.
also....... if you use "nitrogen fixing bacteria" this may aid in the development of fusarium spores..
i myself recently started using poolshock (Calcium Hypochlorite) in every watering. plants that have been in a veg stasis the past months have started growing again.
current pool shock treatment is
45 grams of 68% poolshock/calcium hypocchlorite to one gallon of ro.
then that stock solution i use 3 mill per gallon in my hand watering feeds. let the plants dry down. an always under size the pot so things dont stay to wet for days.
so far i have seen positive results. any standing reservoir gets 4 mills per gallon every 3-4 days.
clean every container, scissors, plant stakes ph meters with the stock solution. sterile sterile sterile..
Now the pool shock will not kill the main fusarium cells if they are thick walled, but it will kill the spores an prevent spreading. something im still learning on is the life cycle if these diseases.
only thing at this point of my reading i have found says heat or chemical can kill the thick walled cells. oxidizer sterilization will only go so far.
If a fungi has setup in the stem of the plant, it can and will be passed with new cuts.
i am currently trying banrot in veg stages only. 1.5-2mills per gallon.
** banrot is systemic, an it may not be the best choice for cannabis. but at this point i am trying as i have lost so much already. it has been a steady decline the past 2 years and last 6months have been bad. i have had a seriously huge reduction across the board of both quality an yield. Plants have wilted an died 20 days before harvest.
**I would even go as far as to say, Fusarium or pythium could be the main reason this term " Dudding " has been thrown around. As well as with stem nematodes, Fusarium can setup in the stems, reproduce an cause blockages of vital plant water an nutrients.
******Looks like some have been using a safe product called Zerotol 2.0. Zerotol maybe the choice right now!! But it looks like a preventive an rootzone cure. it does not appear to be systemic, so if something was already in the stem ,it would not cure. It is also good to point out that if zerotol is used, it will most likely kill off any of your other beneficial bacterias. so using og biowar or myco or trichoderma would be useless an counterproductive.So i would think that at this point of using zerotol, u are going to a sterile reservoir.
It is hyrdogen peroxode and Peroxyacetic Acid. Now at current $170 a gallon price seems expensive for 27% hydrogen peroxide an 2% Peroxyacetic Acid. quick calculations, one like me may benefit from mixing my own when you maintain 6/700+ gallons on a weekly basis. https://www.biosafesystems.com/zerotol-2-0/
a suggestion that biochar could suppress.
as well as zinc an copper.
***last edit 12/4/18, 12/7/18,12/10/18 any " * " indicates something that was updated. i will edit this post as i go and change or add information as it becomes relevant.***