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Old 09-29-2018, 05:04 PM #11
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Pythium grows best at pH of 6 to 7, but also survives at pH of 5 and 8. So it's a red herring to focus on pH. Pythium is a parasite that generally is introduced by vectors, most commonly fungus gnats, which suggests that humidity, moisture, drainage, and air flow are really where one wants to look to prevent pythium from occurring.
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:04 PM #12
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Pythium grows best at pH of 6 to 7, but also survives at pH of 5 and 8. So it's a red herring to focus on pH. Pythium is a parasite that generally is introduced by vectors, most commonly fungus gnats, which suggests that humidity, moisture, drainage, and air flow are really where one wants to look to prevent pythium from occurring.

Indeed. I attribute my success to exactly what you describe. I use filtered air (high micron filtration), high rates of air flow, low humidity and low temps. I stop almost everything from coming in, then keep the environment unsuitable for easy germination.


Preserves terps too.
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:15 PM #13
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Great info in here.
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:43 PM #14
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:52 PM #15
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Douglas,

Thanks for the initial post. Do you use reservoir drop as a proxy measure for transpiration? Do you factor in dehumidifier output?

As a grow progresses and transpiration drops - Have you decreased/manipulated to maintain high transpiration?

Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:53 PM #16
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Above should read: decreased/manipulated RH...
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:01 PM #17
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I figured this out by accident, mostly due to laziness. Got to the point I never needed PH up or down. Even quit using the PH meter altogether. Nutes brought my tap water down to 5.4 - 5.5. By the time the rez got low (DWC) it was up to 6.1 - 6.2. All I did was mix a new batch and fill buckets.

Added bonus: As the nute level drops, the roots get exposed to the moist air in the bucket. I quit using air stones, just weighed down the hoses with steel nuts. I gave up an hydrotron too. Got sick of washing it, slipping on it and finding it everywhere. Went with a slice of pool noodle and wedged the plant in with a few slivers of noodle. Plant sits on the bottom branches. The only downside is you have to tie the plant off so it doesn't tip over. 3 drywall screws in the lid fixes that.

I couldn't believe I spent so much time fretting over PH levels, not to mention the extra cost of PH adjusters.
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:11 AM #18
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@GingerBeard Yes, I use the drop in nutrient level as the main indicator of transpiration rate. I don't use dehuey's (yet), so I don't have data on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WelderDan View Post
I figured this out by accident, mostly due to laziness. Got to the point I never needed PH up or down. Even quit using the PH meter altogether. Nutes brought my tap water down to 5.4 - 5.5.
It sounds like your tap water has enough of something to act just like the amount of pH up I use. I can see how that would be very convenient.

This might work with your neighbor, but possibly not for anyone 5 to 10 miles away from you. Tap water is highly variable and what works for you won't work for most. Depending on what's in your water, you may find a higher quality end product by switching to r/o. If it's 'just' the pH adjustment elements, there may be no change.



Glad it works for you. Seriously. Around here there's a huge pH/tds change in the tap-water around mid-fall. About a month before harvest season. If you want your plants to stay healthy using tap, you really have to pay attention and compensate for it.
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:34 AM #19
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For what ever reason my tap ph drops in @February for about a month or 2 and then goes back to normal. When it drops I don't need to PH anything without the drop I need to PH down about .5
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Old 09-30-2018, 02:50 AM #20
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I do small grows, micro style, and have seen the light.

My yields are somewhat consistant for my style,
but attention to pH variation and EC have elevated quality
of any given yield.

Very good thread.
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