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Old 03-07-2007, 01:00 AM #141
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That is a bad ass looking leaf Motaco. I have never seen one like that. Cool find
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:24 AM #142
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Make sure your tube lights(fluro's) hang as close to the seedlings as possible (a couple of centimeters)! A 400 watt lamp can be hung as low as 45 cm and a 600 watt lamp as low as 55 cm.


Don't be afraid, the seedlings can very well handle this, even though a good movement of air underneath the lamp is very important (ventilator!).

Make sure you spray in time, until the hull, that may come up when the seed germinates, has dropped off, as well as the protective film which envelopes the seed. This is necessary to prevent the hull and protective film to dry out, which sometimes result in sticking to the germinating seedling, which as a consequence, is hampered in it's development. Stop spraying water when all seedlings are overground, too allow for your seedlings to work at maximum efficiency underground. Offering too much humidity to the leaf often results in a less developed rootsystem. Contrary to clones, seedlings have a reasonable resistance to dry air. When using germinating trays, things often go wrong because of excessive heat and humidity.

Because we germinate and grow our seeds indoors on a warm medium, the plants tend to shoot up rather thinly, which causes weak and excessively high plants. This can only be prevented by hanging the lights as low as possible.

Lowering soil temperature could be an option, if it weren't for the growing speed we don't want to lose.

The biggest mistake being made is: not bringing the light close enough to the developing seedling!

Remember that the first two to three hours partly determine the rest of the plant's life!
This is very important information for those who want to start seeds on 12/12 right away

Last edited by atmosphere; 03-07-2007 at 02:28 AM..
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Old 03-07-2007, 04:40 AM #143
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Thanks everyone for the added help since I last visited, this info is helping at this very moment.

Please allow me to hypothesize for a moment and tell me what you think, I am just a grasshopper, as far as experience goes.

Is anyone else thinking that NPK ratios could have alot to do with when maturity starts? I mean, obviously with maturity showing later and a larger plant entering flowering....you get the idea. I really don't know if it is known how much effect N has on start of maturity, but it does delay flowering right? Someone in coco or hydro could easily have precise control over NPK ratio....am I way off?
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:46 AM #144
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Thats a good thought there Elephant Man......

And I've always wondered myself how one would go about feeding a plant started off on 12/12....

Hey Atmosphere or anybody with this knowledge, please enlighten me!

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Old 03-07-2007, 01:31 PM #145
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Coco is a perfect medium for maximum yield in 12/12 from seed. My advice is to feed the plant regarding the plants maturation stages very carefully.
The first three weeks, before sexed, i would be very careful with nutes.
In coco using onepart solution, I recommend half the dosage.
I would crank up the nutes to normal "flowering"-levels (doing it partially...) when plant is sexed and starts to stretch. That would be around week four. I would add pk 13/14 at minimum doses when budsites have started to form for real. Maybe around week 6-7, but its totally strain- and phenodependeble. Look at the plant. Feed as needed.
Most growers overfeed and beeing contraproductive.

Or grow it in large soilcontainers or soilbeds and don´t fertilize at all.
Because it´s all about ROOTS and watts, right?
Throw in a few extra beans to make up for that little loss in yield compared to the coco coir.
That´s a breeze. And cheap.
Gardening should be fun and easy maintained.

Check out "Mandala-Mikes" fertilizing guide.
It makes perfect sense and so does his genetics, support and pricing.
I believe "Growdoc" made some very interesting posts on 12/12 with no-vegging in soilbeds using Plagron-nutes. Haven´t tried his beans though (yet), but they seem very nice.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:39 PM #146
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You said that flowering time is unaffected. So your saying an eight week strain will go from seed to maturity in 8 weeks? I've popped beans in the corner of a bloom room before and after a couple weeks they still hadn't shown flowering characteristics. I would just think that the plant would have to develope a bit to increase its levels of flowering hormones(which would be slim to none in a seed) before it completely turned over. Just a thought. Cool idea though. I guess i'd have to seed out a mom or something first to get enough seed to try this. Worth an experiment though.

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Old 03-07-2007, 01:51 PM #147
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Originally Posted by bio-forte
You said that flowering time is unaffected. So your saying an eight week strain will go from seed to maturity in 8 weeks? I've popped beans in the corner of a bloom room before and after a couple weeks they still hadn't shown flowering characteristics. I would just think that the plant would have to develope a bit to increase its levels of flowering hormones(which would be slim to none in a seed) before it completely turned over. Just a thought. Cool idea though. I guess i'd have to seed out a mom or something first to get enough seed to try this. Worth an experiment though.
The plant needs to reach vegetative maturity before it can flower. So an 8 week strain would take 8 weeks from that point the plant is mature enough to flower.
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Old 03-07-2007, 04:56 PM #148
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bio-forte the quickest of the quick will finish about 11 weeks from germination. most finish about 12-13 in my experience.
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:51 PM #149
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Originally Posted by Berry_Coughin'
Ya, I just posted on this earlier in this thread.... I do it to get some seeds really quick then kill the males, and revert the girls right after they show they've been pollinated..... peace....
Why do you wait for the girls to get pollenated?
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Old 03-07-2007, 06:40 PM #150
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Lemme first say that I could care less about yield from this plant, have a crappy cam, am new to growing MJ, but I like to try and contribute.

This little girl was technically vegged for 2 weeks under flouros, to about 5 nodes high I guess (5 inches or so) basically until I discovered this method. I will do better with time frames in the future, I believe these pics are 10-14 days later, and even though she was also topped, she just now preflowered at 14" above soil level. She caught me off gaurd just abit in her needs at first, but I don't think she was stunted too bad. She also was transplanted from 4" pot to one gallon, certainly all valid points in the outcome. I have more seed and will make more so I will do better next time.

Basically though, preliminary observations tell me that she is probably well suited for this method...feel free to await for final results, or even my next grow...but you get my point I hope...nothing more than hoping to add this 'Swazi Safari' to the 'does well' list.

Enjoy






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