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27% Imidacloprid, Acephate 97, Avid, Eagle 20 rates?

calyxcreations

New member
I have used Bayer Advanced 1.47% Imid at 5ml per gallon, dunking for 15 min with good results. I recently purchased Quali-Pro 21.4% Imid. How much do you recommend per gallon? I realize this should be a simple math question.

Also, Id like to confirm that Acephate 97 should be used at 1 tsp/gal as a dunk for 15 min? Thank you yerboyblue for this recommendation.

After spending hours on this website I have deducted that treating clones with Imid and then an Acephate dunk 14 days into flower are good ideas. Avid should be sprayed when putting plants into the flower room to prevent spider mite. What rates are recommended?

Eagle 20 should be sprayed at least once in veg at 2ml/gallon with Dawn soap.Thanks Krunchbubble.

H2o2 1ml/gallon every other day and Hygrozyme 5 ml/gal in the rez at all times.

Does this program sound like a start to keeping my garden in great condition? Thanks for knowledgeable advice.
 

Norkali

Active member
Jesus Christ.....I hope I never encounter any of your finished product.

What you've just described is the equivalent of a small-nation state deciding that nuclear-weapons - hydrogen bombs, (Imid) A-bombs (Eagle 20) and Bio-aerosol germicidal warfare (Avid, Acephate, the rest...) are good first measures towards defense. That metaphor actually works too, because just like the weapons I used for comparison, all of the products you mentioned, (with the exception of maybe the Acephate,) have considerable effects long down the road after the initial application. Imidacloprid and Abamectin half-life's could be seen as the radioactivity seen after nuclear detonations.

Seems a little out of proportion if you ask me.

Start with the conventional weapons.....Special Forces (beneficial insects,) Drone-Hellfire strikes (Neem Oil/Serenade spray,) and when things start getting rocky, then maybe it's time for some heavier weapons like ICBM's or bunker busters (No Pest Strips/Pyrethrum fog-bomb)

Shit, even before that defense begins with surveillance, satellites (magnifying glasses,) police (sticky traps,) and plain old paying attention. Damn, I could have fun with this metaphor forever. :biggrin:

I hope you get the point.

Anyway, good luck.
 

Peacebud

New member
My buddy sprayed eagle20 last week of veg before his switch to 12/12, he has had no pm but are his flowers going to be okay?he Never sprayed the buds, just that one app. This is who I usually get my meds from, will they be safe? Is it all well in that hotel?
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Spraying Azasol in veg and in the 1st week of flower has kept me mite free for about 3 years. Don't poison yourself and others. Good luck. -granger
 

Dirt Bag

Member
The Real World

The Real World

I find it kind of disheartening that so many are so quick to judgment with no beneficial input whatsoever, or worse, derogatory remarks and ill-fated attempts at humor.
Well boys, here in the real world we have real problems that require real results. All of the products OP mentioned are excellent and the absolute best thing for their specific, designated uses. Now I know, all of you are bio-chemical engineers and know way more than those idiots over at Bayer and the likes, but instead of jabbing at the guy, why not give him good advice? Yeah. It's because you don't have any, isn't it? I thought so.
*end sarcastic rant
Now, on the topic that, IMHO, isn't dead until the last bug is;
Where I live, we have white flies. We just do. There is nothing short of decontamination chambers akin to those in Alien that will keep them out of your grow. We incorporate the perpetual SOG methodology and therefore never have an empty room with which to "start over". Our best defense up until now has been a combination of different techniques. So, what do we do? First, we spray imidacloprid on the mothers, cuttings, and veggers at the concentration recommended by Bayer (0.6 fl oz/gal@21.4%) and it works. The problem arises in the flowering room. We use sticky yellow traps, which really work well, but not completely. We have been spraying Azamax, which does help keep their numbers down, but the plants don't seem to like it much and with the size of reservoirs and number of changes along with the constant crop rotation, using Azamax in the reservoir is cost prohibitive.
Ideally we would like to find a cost effective systemic application that can be added to the reservoir.
So, real world question for any actual bio-chemical engineers or people who have experience in such: How close to harvest can imidacloprid be applied systemically and what concentration would administer the equivalent application to spraying?
Bayer has directions for root feeding of fruit trees and vegetable gardens, SO, it is safe to use in some manner somehow. The question is, how? because Bayer dodges, deflects, or outright plays dumb with the very mention of hydroponics and worse, cannabis.
How does outdoor drench application translate into hydroponic reservoir application?
 
Not safe

Not safe

All of the products OP mentioned are excellent and the absolute best thing for their specific, designated uses. Now I know, all of you are bio-chemical engineers and know way more than those idiots over at Bayer and the likes, but instead of jabbing at the guy, why not give him good advice? Yeah. It's because you don't have any, isn't it? I thought so.
*end sarcastic rant

So, real world question for any actual bio-chemical engineers or people who have experience in such: How close to harvest can imidacloprid be applied systemically and what concentration would administer the equivalent application to spraying?
Bayer has directions for root feeding of fruit trees and vegetable gardens, SO, it is safe to use in some manner somehow.

For anybody that doesn’t know, this is ignorant at best, reckless at worst. It is not safe to use these chemicals. They are clearly not labeled for combustion (smoking) and using them systemicly isn’t a good idea. Obviously, good growers don’t need to use illegal pesticides. If warehouses can pass pesticide tests, you can too. You just need to step up your game. There is no excuse for poisoning people for profit.

I’ve been saying for a while that reckless use of eagle 20 and bug poison is the cannabis industry’s biggest secret that nobody wants to talk about. It’s cheating. Have pride in your work.
 
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Dirt Bag

Member
Me thinks that your reading comprehension needs improvement. I said "for their specific designated uses". Poisoning is not one of those uses.
Those who actually understand how plants and pesticides like imidacloprid work, it's not scary nor dangerous. misuse is another thing entirely.
Imidacloprid, used correctly, is absolutely safe for cannabis, unless you're a bee.
Again, unless you are a bio-chemical engineer and have worked specifically on this product, your opinion is, well just that. An opinion. My statements are based on information directly from the chemical engineer at Bayer, who has assured me that before flowering (as flowers are the part that's consumed) it is 100% safe to use. That no testing has been done on cannabis by the manufacturer, however, it has been tested extensively on fruit trees and vegetables. You know, those things everyone eats?
So hey, thanks for your input, but frankly it's all bullshit without substance.
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
I’ve used all those chemicals. They are not the best options, especially for a preventative. They should be used as a last resort. Used all the time without prejudice is the reason we have pm that can’t be killed with eagle 20 and spider mites immune to avid. Again there are much better options as preventatives/treatments
Hope the op has found his way by now!
 

buzzmobile

Well-known member
Veteran
I find it kind of disheartening that so many are so quick to judgment with no beneficial input whatsoever, or worse, derogatory remarks and ill-fated attempts at humor.
...
Where I live, we have white flies. We just do. There is nothing short of decontamination chambers akin to those in Alien that will keep them out of your grow. We incorporate the perpetual SOG methodology and therefore never have an empty room with which to "start over".

Where I live, we have white flies. We just do. I can say that too. I'm not here to judge, to proffer derogatory remarks, or to attempt a humorous response. I can offer some beneficial input regarding whitefly control. A combination of Botanigard/SuffoilX has been the solution to the clouds of whiteflies that once inhabited my rooms.

There are alternatives to systemic insecticides to consider.
:tiphat:
 

Dirt Bag

Member
Where I live, we have white flies. We just do. I can say that too. I'm not here to judge, to proffer derogatory remarks, or to attempt a humorous response. I can offer some beneficial input regarding whitefly control. A combination of Botanigard/SuffoilX has been the solution to the clouds of whiteflies that once inhabited my rooms.

There are alternatives to systemic insecticides to consider.
:tiphat:
Thanks. I am trying considering all avenues. Of course I don't want to use insecticides, but as I've stated, we live in reality, and in reality we have bugs.
Can you tell me more? Do you spray your flowering plants? How late into flowering? How do they take it? I find spraying withers pistils and can't see how that's helpful.
 

heatherlonglee

Active member
Neem meal seed tea: I believe you can brew the meal into a tea. Chitosan or that Crab Shrimp shell meal stuff maybe? Should be able to source the raws pretty cheap.
 

buzzmobile

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks. I am trying considering all avenues. Of course I don't want to use insecticides, but as I've stated, we live in reality, and in reality we have bugs.
Can you tell me more? Do you spray your flowering plants? How late into flowering? How do they take it? I find spraying withers pistils and can't see how that's helpful.

I have sprayed my flowering plants into the 9th week of flower. I spray with lights on with no ill effect. The pistils will turn orangeish but they do not wither.

Botanigard alone was not effective. I learned that the addition of the SuffoilX makes all the difference in the efficacy of the spray. The biggest problem is the mixture is a contact killer. You have to hit them with it to work properly. Maintaining a high humidity during treatment is another variable to consider. It will take three applications to break up their life cycle.

EDIT: A shop vac makes a wonderful weapon in a whitefly war. I use a bamboo stake to run through the branches and leaves to disturb the fliers. When they are in the air the shop vac makes quick work of them. A spritz of flying insect killer into the hose when you are finished will kill any survivors in the tank.
 
Lol

Lol

Imidacloprid, used correctly, is absolutely safe for cannabis, unless you're a bee.

My statements are based on information directly from the chemical engineer at Bayer, who has assured me that before flowering (as flowers are the part that's consumed) it is 100% safe to use.

Now come on, there is no way you got anybody from Bayer to “assure” you it is ok to use on cannabis. It’s not legal to use off label and they are worth billions but I guess they think you are “cool bro”. Why are you pushing this so hard? Are you a Bayer sales rep?

Anyway, I think it is ok for you to smoke contaminated weed but I wouldn’t want other people to smoke it.
 

Dirt Bag

Member
Now come on, there is no way you got anybody from Bayer to “assure” you it is ok to use on cannabis. It’s not legal to use off label and they are worth billions but I guess they think you are “cool bro”. Why are you pushing this so hard? Are you a Bayer sales rep?

Anyway, I think it is ok for you to smoke contaminated weed but I wouldn’t want other people to smoke it.

I'm not "pushing" anything, Chief. I am defending my statement. Believe what you want. Perhaps you should try contacting Bayer yourself before making hollow statements. I am simply relating information I have obtained. Imidacloprid is safe to use before flowering. Period.
I suppose the millions and millions of people using it on their gardens, fruit, and nut trees are eating "contaminated" foods.
What evidence do you have to support your claims of contamination? Yep. That's right. None.
Why are you pushing not using it so hard? Is OP your dealer or something?
 
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