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Old 02-09-2019, 09:28 PM #181
Bjorn to farm.
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I know what you mean by resting in the middle but the shade it throws is an irritant.
I’ve been racking my brain trying to find a simple solution to get it down the far side.
There is a company that makes roll-up tarps for grain trailers. They have some good ideas.
Yes, please PM me the wiring diagram. I love shit like that.
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Old 02-09-2019, 09:36 PM #182
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https://www.michels.ca/product/grain...product_2.html
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:36 PM #183
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I would think any garage door company would have something for you. I saw a roll up tarp being installed on a steel machine shed door last summer.
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:14 AM #184
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It doesn't really block any light iff installed well. Luckily, you are doing a very short greenhouse and it will be a breez to get dialed.* When it's all rolled up,* that strip down the middle will be about 6".* The clear plastic cover diffuses light and sends light in different directions.

To make a 10ft wide hoop, it takes a 20ft wide piece of clear plastic.* 6" of that will be blocked by the blackout bars when it's all rolled up and it's mounted at the highest point in the house. Doesnt matter what position the sun is, there shouldn't be a shadow casted on any part of your plant canopy at any time of day.

I have used a system just like the link you posted. A cable spool attached to the roller to pull the bar as it unrolls when you don't have gravity to pull it. I don't think it would work for up and over. It really just to move the bar horizontally. I used it to unroll an insulating blanket.
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Old 02-10-2019, 03:55 AM #185
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What do you consider short?
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Old 02-10-2019, 05:52 AM #186
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Maybe you didn't say what size you were doing and i confused it with another post.

The longer the greenhouse, the harder it is to connect the bar to all that plastic evenly. Anything under 40ft long is very easy. 60 ft is a little harder. Closer to 100ft takes a couple sets off hands and a bunch of rolling up and down to see if you got it right. The straighter it rolls, the closer you can get the bars rolled to the center.

The wider and taller the greenhouse is, the wider the strip can be down the middle blocking sun without it casting a shadow. It's all about that diffused light from the clear plastic that makes little things up high not cast shadows.
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:07 AM #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrushnYuba View Post
When you say big pipe, do you mean long pipe or big diameter?
It would only take 2 pieces of 10ft top rail to go down a 20 ft long hoop house. They also make 20ft long top rail, but top rail nests into the next piece so well, i don't see the point.
You could build your own "controller" with a few parts if you are comfortable with some very basic wiring. Doesn't require soldering. Just a screw driver and some wire to connect 3 components. I could pm you a wiring diagram and parts list.

Edit: it seems like you mean bigger diameter pipe. You will need 2 motors for black out regardless. The bars need to rest in the center of the greenhouse when open. Maybe i have to take some more pictures to share
I would love that wiring diagram and parts list, if not too much trouble!

Thanks man!
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:56 AM #188
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Originally Posted by shredGnar View Post
I would love that wiring diagram and parts list, if not too much trouble!

Thanks man!


I hope you understand this diagram. I'm not the best at these things. I tried to draw it as simple as possible. You could use terminal blocks to organize the wires better. I use wire duct to hide all the wiring. I don't like any visible wires. Din rails and/or backplate for your enclosure to mount on. I would also add a switch to manually stop each motor so u can manually open one set a time.

On the dpdt relay
Terminal 4 and 5 are jumpered together with a short piece of wire.
Terminal 8 and 1 are jumpered together.

This is how polarity is reversed. 1 and 4 normally have power. When the relay is triggered by the timer it switches to 5 and 8. When you reverse the - and + on a dc motor, it changes direction.

Terminal 12 and 9 are the power in on the relay and always have power.
Terminal 14 and 13 are the trigger. 13 always has - power. When the timer turns on, it sends + power to terminal 14 and it energizes the coil.

The diagram is for any standard 8 pin dpdt "icecube" relay rated for over 15 amps.
Any 24v timer
And a 24v power supply greater then 10 amps.
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:40 PM #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrushnYuba View Post
View Image

I hope you understand this diagram. I'm not the best at these things. I tried to draw it as simple as possible. You could use terminal blocks to organize the wires better. I use wire duct to hide all the wiring. I don't like any visible wires. Din rails and/or backplate for your enclosure to mount on. I would also add a switch to manually stop each motor so u can manually open one set a time.

On the dpdt relay
Terminal 4 and 5 are jumpered together with a short piece of wire.
Terminal 8 and 1 are jumpered together.

This is how polarity is reversed. 1 and 4 normally have power. When the relay is triggered by the timer it switches to 5 and 8. When you reverse the - and + on a dc motor, it changes direction.

Terminal 12 and 9 are the power in on the relay and always have power.
Terminal 14 and 13 are the trigger. 13 always has - power. When the timer turns on, it sends + power to terminal 14 and it energizes the coil.

The diagram is for any standard 8 pin dpdt "icecube" relay rated for over 15 amps.
Any 24v timer
And a 24v power supply greater then 10 amps.
Thank you for that!
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:14 PM #190
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Looking for a good supplier for 1 3/8" perlin connectors, clamps, wiggle channels, coverings, etc?

I saw this place but would prefer to go with a recommend. https://www.buildmyowngreenhouse.com...epolylock.aspx
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