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Yield increasing planting method

little j

Member
thanks for repeating yourself. ive read it all a thousand times but i also think a mature plant can be shit on without ill affects. a seedling though? tiny little stem, buried in dirt,,,rot??? maybe im thinking in the box to much. i have to try it i guess. i just hate losing any of my potentials to my own stupidity or guesswork. each sprout needs to go the full nine yards because i dont have indoor opportunities. wish me luck.
 
Mr Celsius said:
Advantageous roots & Dry farming will yield the most results in a google search.

Most plants in the nightshade family (eggplant, potato, tomato, ect) have fine hairs on the stems and when burned turn into roots. By stripping the skin of the stem and applying Butyric Acid (rooting hormone), we turn the stem into advantageous roots. I know I'm repeating myself a little, but people often don't read.
Thanks for repeating yourself also i understood that good,I guess I would try this on a couple to see how it goes for me,I would probley use a potoato piller like silverback said and spray it with anything with Butyric acid,Wouldn't SuperThrive work-I forgot Ill look it up?Question I was thinking of was would it be more easier for plant to get sick or pest or something?I don't think so but thats what poped in my head at first after reading just thought i would ask.
 

Endo

IcMag Resident Comic Relief
Veteran
anyone talk about doing this in like a trough of soil or an elongaded planter? maybe two, into like a U shape with side by side planters? i think if you got the right size planters you could have a decent yield indoors. you would probly have to vegg for a while, and they might get root bound b4 then is the problem i see with it.
 
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G

Guest

I don't think a seedling will work little j. Just my thinking but I think the stem/ branches have to be capable of rooting and i don't believe a seedling stem will. I could be wrong though.

Endo, if I keep a mother, which is seldom, I use a 3 gallon tuperware tub and use this method as it results in many more clone sites. A mother grown with this method will represent the cutting material of as many as 3 plants.\

sb
 

little j

Member
i dont think a seedling will work either. to fragile. i hoped someone had crossed this bridge already. who knows. maybe i will give it a go. check out my nutes thread. cast your vote.
 
Call me stupid,but when adding ferts,do you add or apply along the buried main stem as well as the original root ball of the plant?
 
Yes! You can do it with a seedling, it will form roots all the way up to the cotyledons... we do this with tomatoes too out on the farm.

Don't scrape it or anything though just bury it and wait.
 

ThaiMeUp

Member
This is a good thread and I want to try this method here. I wonder how it will work with plants that will go immediately in the flowering stage? Because of the latitude here, everything starts to flower once I put it out in the patch.
 
G

Guest

Hi ThaiMeUp,
I believe you might have to layer and root the plant indoors under enough light if strains begin to flower under your daylength. Just guessing, but I think once a plant starts to flower, thats where its efforts are focused and not on rooting. I think the rooting process would have to be complete before setting them out.

Crack some seed you have a bunch of and get back to us with the answer.

sb
 

ThaiMeUp

Member
Ok, I will give it a try. I have some clones that I can experiment with. Will see how it goes and keep you informed.
 
G

guest123

hey silverback , those cam cards are pretty small ,, why not get 2 , and the one with erb pix on it ,, just stash it somewhere ,, geez they are so small u could prolly fit one ,, mm in your ear or nose ?? hehehe ,, the other card has the pix u took in the woods ,, pretty boring for the old sheriff ... just a thought , be nice to see some pics ...
come on mate we know your pretty inventive ,, u can do it ...
 
I was planning on trying this with my mothers that i have going. I was wondering if you could just take the leaves off of an already established plant and skin it with the same effects. Also would this method work for growing in the swamp using 20 gallon rubbermaids.
 

Saibai

栽培して収穫しましょう!
Veteran
Excellent, excellent info. I`ll def. try it this season if poss.

I think a lot of people here don`t know about the cultivation of other plants/flowers, this cross-over knowledge is priceless. I have some veges going but no "tech" to speak of.

:)
 

tokinjoe

Active member
Little J, I often start my seedlings in a windowsill before ultimately putting them in my mini-greenhouse. SB and I were talking about it on another post but it seems just as soon as they sprout we get a week-long period of rain and thus, cloud cover. This tends to make my seedlings stretch a LOT as the sun is hidden yet it's bright enough to make the seedlings stretch towards the light. If the stretching is bad enough I have no choice than to bury the seedlings deeper upon transplanting to a bigger cup/pot. Initially I start them in a small sized foam drinking cup with holes poked in the bottom and as soon as they start rooting well I transfer them into the bigger cup and then again into my pots and into the greenhouse they go. I've yet to lose one to stem rot but I've seen it posted here at times that it can happen. I guess I'm lucky that it hasn't happened to me. Good luck bro, I hope that answers your question.
 
G

Guest

After thinking about it, tokinjoe is right. I bury stems all the time in the vertical position, what would be the difference in burying it horizontally. gently, tediously. The question I have is what would the plant look like burying it without any real branches to grow? Wheres the yield comming from? Maybe little j will let us know.

Stem rot is caused by the same thing as seed rot and damping off. Drowning the plant.

Wallyduck, your'e right and I have one just recently purchased. This ice looks thin but Im going to inch out on it and see. Pictures do make a huge difference.
While i got you, let me thank you for the seedling starter tip. I looked up at the top of the page one day and saw"hey dummy, you can put those seedlings in a cage and the deer won't keep eating them!" Good tip and good thread and I don't know why it didn't occur to me sooner. I currently have 30 seedlings veggin in the great outdoors allowing another wave to come in. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
G

guest123

ohhh great to hear it was a help mate , ive certainly taken note of several of your threads and suggestions , is what we are all here for ,, learning and teaching , and visa versa ...
 

tokinjoe

Active member
30 seedlings SB? Man you guys all have balls the size of Texas. Dude 30 plants for me is a BIG grow. Afraid of the choppers, man. Not to mention it's a friends property I use and I'd hate like hell for LEO to roll up in there. Gotta admit I'm envious....
 
G

Guest

Hey joe, not a big grow. The 30 will be reduced to 24 or so within the first 30 days and 4 more due to unknown factors at this point. Of the remaining 20, 7-9 will be males. Of the 10 or 11 that are female will be left to grow but something will happen to 2 of those, leaving 8 plants. Each plant will be planted in an individual planting site, with no more than 2 plants anywhere.

On top of that, these plants are replacement plants for the primary grow that will go through the same process of elimination I dictated above.

Just sounds big tokinjoe. Being able to grow the seedlings away from the house is helpful. Within 48 hours of popping through the soil, they go to the cage. I currently have a total of 72 plants/ seedlings, but only 4 plants are at my house.

My goal is the same this year as it has been for the past number of years. Harvest 40 plants and average 6+ oz's per plant. The 40 plants are grown at 28 different sites spread across 3 counties. I keep a map.

The numbers of plants I have started seem great, but I believe them to be just the right amount to meet my goal. Its been my finding that a grower with experience and skill will harvest just over 50% of their initial effort.
 
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tokinjoe

Active member
I agree with the numbers solely due to the male/female ratio SB. That's why I used all femmed seed now. I can't clone due to security reasons so I go out 100% female. It limits what strains I can grow but it doubled my harvest by not pulling males. No wasted work for me. I carry a shitload of water, build cages and such and it's a big letdown to pull males. Males eliminated allows me to still harvest around 90% or better. The other 10% I'm working on eliminating.
 

zonkerpup

Member
I'm thinking about trying this layering method with some bagseed that I'm putting under 1000 watts. Usually I use #10 size pots. But I thought that I might try putting the plants in the soil diagonally across a Rubbermaid rectangular storage container (12"x24"). I've started training the branches all to one side. My question is how deep do you all think that the container would have to be? If I'm forcing multiple rooting locations across the top of the rectangular grow space, will the individual root systems need to be as deep as if I was growing with one central root mass? I want to save soil but certainally don't want the ladies to be root bound anywhere or anytime. Thanks for any and all suggestions. My outdoor girls are getting too late of a start for experimenting.
Peace, Kathy
 

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