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Old 04-26-2018, 12:39 AM #91
jidoka
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I will take that bet on leaf mold being balanced. How hard do you reckon it is to get Ca to tree leaf?

Anyways I know someone that deals with a gh that uses Lithawaniun peat that comes in with a ph of 4.5. 4.5 lbs of hical buffers it to a ph of 6. So at least an approximate idea to test around

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Old 04-26-2018, 12:51 AM #92
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I will take that bet on leaf mold being balanced. How hard do you reckon it is to get Ca to tree leaf?

Anyways I know someone that deals with a gh that uses Lithawaniun peat that comes in with a ph of 4.5. 4.5 lbs of hical buffers it to a ph of 6. So at least an approximate idea to test around

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especially by the point when the leaf has fallen from the tree, think about what that process entails... with that said, I gather all my leaves and even some of my neighbors and stick them as part of my huge compost pile which everything goes into and gets mixed together, it's a small piece to my puzzle so it doesn't need to be perfect going in, mho.....
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Old 04-26-2018, 01:24 AM #93
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bog

This stuff composts a little longer than your avg leaf mold pile without magically becoming balanced
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Old 04-26-2018, 02:06 AM #94
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So you say peat-perlite only?
I can do a small side by side.

Which lab/test would you recommend for my peat sample?
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Old 04-26-2018, 02:17 AM #95
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No I am just messing around.

Try the 5-1-1 with leaf mold plus some maerl. Test that with an m3.

Post those results and we can go from there. Indoors you are gonna need fairly quick release ferts
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:14 AM #96
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A bog...I know a guy with one of those things...

Not looking for balance, but a good base. 80% of mixes sold have worse balance than straight leaf mold.

Isn't it the French that are huge leaf mould nuts for horticultural use?
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:31 AM #97
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Yes, I will go that route. I like the buffer capacity that compost brings.

I do not have a soil pH meter. How do I measure the pH for this kind of soil?
With volume? 1 part soil + 1 part distilled water?
Or by weight? 100g soil + 100g water?

I imagine these will give a different reading.

Why do you dry your mix before measuring if I may ask? (edit: probably because you weigh )

This is an indoor mix. Outdoors I never grow in pots.
I go by volume. If the soil is damp, you don't have a full cup of medium, you have a cup of medium and water. Some dry, some don't...I feel more accurate by drying.

Also, I use litmus paper and/or a pH pen to get my results.
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Old 04-26-2018, 11:03 AM #98
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All right, got the medium mixed up. After cooking I'll test the pH, measure bulk density and sent it to spectrum.

Which medium pH do I shoot for? Around 6.8?

And what is the difference between a K1 and K3 test from Spectrum? Never really understood that, just followed directions.

Is the K3 a test where they use the actual weight of the sample and thus give ppm's in grams of element/weight of medium?

And with K1 they use a scoop that acts as a weight estimate thus giving skewed weight ppm's for soils/mediums that do not follow the 1cc=1g estimate.
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Old 04-26-2018, 02:09 PM #99
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k1 assumes the weight of a scoop. K3 weighs out the soil to go into solution.

6.5-6.6 it will most likely rise slightly over the next months as the maerl is broken down.

On the ph test, I mix my lime with water and then water the soil I am using for testing. This gets the lime reaction to happen quicker.

It is also handy to do all testing on dry medium since that is what you need to find bulk density.

I will try to get to your other message today Arnold.

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Old 04-26-2018, 03:23 PM #100
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So lets have a quick talk about TH mix...

50 lbs of bone, lets assume 4-12-0, the original mix is roughly 36 cubic feet of base + 50 lbs bone, 100 lbs 3-2-2 chicken compost.

Now lets first assume this is field soil density...what kind of PPM is that?

Bone meal:
N - 1200 PPM
P2O5 - 3600 PPM ( P ~1600)

SupRgreen:
N - 1800 PPM
P2O5 - 1200 PPM ( P 530)
K2O - 1200 PPM (K 1000)

So, 3000 PPM N, 2100 P and 1000 K in field soil. In a mix weighing 1/4 of that in bulk density, all those numbers are quadrupled... Speaking of balance?

It works because a lot of the N is slow release from the bone, some is used to fuel decomposition and the rest is leached to the sub-soil. Some K gets pushed out from the 20 lbs of gypsum that is recommended in the original mix also...

Tom Hill mix needs large containers and spring rains to make them perform as best they can.

How much Fe and Na do you think the Bone and SupR bring to the mix?

Why post this? End results are what matters. Science isn't perfect, experimenting is always your best learning tool.
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