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Switch from EBB to Aero. Does it worth it ?

N

NmLs37

New member
So I've been growing for years now with a Flo-Gro 500, EBB&Flow style, which I like pretty much. I tried NFT but didn't liked it that much, and also tried DWC but got root rot as I couldn't maintain cool water temperature. (And yes I used Hydroguard, but still).

Problem is that I live in a pretty warm area, at least during summer, so it's a bit hard for me to maintain cool water. That's what I'm fearing with Aero.

I don't really have this problem with EBB&Flow, as clay pebbles let the roots have enough oxygen anyway and are not fully sitting in water.

But I would really like to try LP Aero, do you think it would worth it making the change ? I'm I gonna have trouble with my water temps ? (Usually it's between 20°C and 25°C more or less). Or should I stick with my old good Flogro 500 ?
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
NmLs37 said:
So I've been growing for years now with a Flo-Gro 500, EBB&Flow style, which I like pretty much. I tried NFT but didn't liked it that much, and also tried DWC but got root rot as I couldn't maintain cool water temperature. (And yes I used Hydroguard, but still).

Problem is that I live in a pretty warm area, at least during summer, so it's a bit hard for me to maintain cool water. That's what I'm fearing with Aero.

I don't really have this problem with EBB&Flow, as clay pebbles let the roots have enough oxygen anyway and are not fully sitting in water.

But I would really like to try LP Aero, do you think it would worth it making the change ? I'm I gonna have trouble with my water temps ? (Usually it's between 20°C and 25°C more or less). Or should I stick with my old good Flogro 500 ?
Click to expand...

I too live in an area where it's hot ~ 8 months of the year.

I first experimented with LPA. It is the worst of the worst. E &F and HPA (and every non-hydro method) provides for a rest period between feedings. Seems to be very important
 
A

Anothermeduser

Member
Depends on what kind of configuration your thinking, aero can work very well if set up and run proper. What kind of set up are you thinking about??
 
Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Aero will have *nearly* the same temp requirements as DWC, same with any other "Roots-In" type hydro where roots are in constant contact with the solution.

When heat is an issue, stick with setups using a media which dries out between waterings. (Roots-Out) The evaporation sets up a swamp cooler effect in the root zone, providing a much higher temp buffer.
 
A

Anothermeduser

Member
i have seen mediumless be less supsepticle to problems than having medium, if you havent gone mediumless then you really dont understand. Depends on the set up as i said
 
A

Anothermeduser

Member
A lot of aero set ups have small rooting areas. I read up on the pod racer and the northern farmer and built a combination of the 2, a 2' wide box in a 5' wide room, box 10" deep with styrofoam for the lid like the pod racer did, res right under the table, table sloped to res. Ran in heat that would kill most. I found sm90 and hydrogenperoxide and others to be detrimental, liquid karma in every res is my go to.. aero is the way, nothing new... a hydro store was preaching and explaining the simplisity of mediumless over 20 yrs ago now to me..
 
A

Anothermeduser

Member
2' wide box outproduced 4' wide tables, i believe for the root compartment, pod racer was not succesfull but he had the right ideas for success, his threads here somewhere.. i think he was trying high pressure. Low pressure is the only way, high pressure is for hobbiests and closet nerds, low pressure is for production.
 
ChaosCatalunya

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
Over about 23C in hydro and Dissolved Oxygen gets critically low, whatever active system you use will be at risk of heat related problems, so minimize all possible risks. You can lag all lit surfaces, top plates, pipes and think about plumbing in a chiller circuit.

Aero is generally held to be the trickiest system of all to get right, but it can be done. IMO a critical part would be a bit of extraction, plus supply of nice cool oxygenated air, to the spray box to help not hinder keeping temps and associated problems down.

Oxygenation by movement, spray, bubblers etc. is always good and hard to overdo, so you need to be doing all you can there to be at the maximum DO levels.
 
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