Hi everyone and thank you for taking time to look into my thread. I have a small personal grow to keep me smoking on the finest flowers that I can personally grow. I have tried many different methods and always fall back on my first love, coco coir. I know there are many coco threads and only a few great coco threads. My way is very similar to everyone else's. I just want to walk anyone who is interested through my methods, answer any questions you all have, give spot light to my favorite cultivars i hold, and something for me to look back on in the future. Please enjoy, and stay smoked out.
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Hq- methods: take a look, discuss, and burn a few
- Thread starter HqFarms
- Start date
MoosingAround
New member
Would you recommend mixing anything (EWC, Alfalfa, blood/bone meal) into your coco if you're feeding synthetic nutes??
Any thoughts on how to maximize Brix instead of Yield?
Any thoughts on how to maximize Brix instead of Yield?
First thing is you need to give your plants exactly what they need. Top much nitrates will lower brix levels. Now fulvic and humic acids will help, so will amino acids. I wouldn't add any kind of blood and bone meal because you need life to break down those things for food and synthetics kill life.
MoosingAround
New member
Have you found ANY amendments / dressings for coco to be useful? My goal is to simplify the nutrient solution; Ideally down to just Maxibloom (+ CaNO / MgSO on RO water).
The MB+Ca nutrient solution would be lacking in Humics, Silica, and Aminos. Soil grows have this solved with slow released amendments, what solutions have coco growers like yourself come to?
Would EWC + Mushroom/Kelp compost + DE (for silica) wash out of the Coco-mix before they do their duty?
"synthetics kill life" - If we can keep up the organic content so that the microbes don't starve themselves, do synthetics still kill life?
I am running coco w/Canna Nute program, but I flush regularly with vermicompost tea. I think it properties help to remove excess salts. No science just observation.
Just saying.
GR
MoosingAround
New member
Coco w/ simple nutes works great, but stopping at a simple 2 part nute leaves out Humates, Mycorrhiza, Silica, chitin, vitamins, growth enhancers like Triacontanol, etc. I'm expecting that coco can be taken further without adding additional liquids to be purchased and measured for each res fillup.
How many bottled products are you using in your regime?
Do you use Mycos / Bennies?
There's a 2015 study saying that while Mycos can survive 40 ppm P and 1.2 EC, they don't create arbuscules (the weblike network) in hydroponic solutions.
Effect of mycorrhiza and the phosphorus content in a nutrient solution on the yield and nutritional status of lettuce grown on various substrates
http://yadda.icm.edu.pl/yadda/element/bwmeta1.element.agro-96a35973-6ab8-4e44-ae14-94a0e3f45df7/c/div_styletext-align_justify___Effect_of_mycorrhiza_and_the_phosphorus_content_in_a_nutrient_solution_on_the_yield_and_nutritional_status_of_lettuce_grown_on_various_substrates_div__.pdf
The study doesn't expand on it, but I assume that the lack of arbuscules has to do with there being no clay for the clay-humus-complex to form, where the ends of the arbuscules opposite the root would attach. If that's the case, what can we mix with coco, and still treat the system as hydroponic?
Maybe adding Vermiculite? EWC?
For adding these, are you saying there's no point amending or dressing, and should only do Teas / store bought liquids?
Alfalfa - Triacontanol
Kelp/Seaweed - B vitamins
Crustaceans - Chitin
EWC/Mushroom - Humus
?? - Silica
Appreciate the discussion,
Moose
I don't think there is no point to adding anything like that. I have ran notill for years. My 50 gallon pots were on their 10th or so cycle. I just keep it plain and simple whether it be coco or soil. With coco I keep it super simple with just a two part base, heavy 16 to be exact and nothing else. For me adding any other kind of bottle doesn't improve anything except making my pocket lighter. I used to use osa28 for silica but found it was giving my flowers a different taste and a darker ash. I don't see the need to use bennies or anything like that because I veg for 10- 12 weeks. While the flower room is going the veg room is too. I get massive root systems and obviously plants in that time under 400w mh.
If you are looking for silica look into using aloe.
Coco is much simpler for me because all I use is a base, where with no till I incorporated knf (Korean natural farming) which really complicated my process. Taking care of my plants was the same but the difference was taking the time to make all my ferments and labs
If you are looking for silica look into using aloe.
Coco is much simpler for me because all I use is a base, where with no till I incorporated knf (Korean natural farming) which really complicated my process. Taking care of my plants was the same but the difference was taking the time to make all my ferments and labs
I decided to pop all my princess haze by brothers grimm tonight. It is one of their new creations that I've held in my stash. I haven't seen anyone pop anything new but for their re- release of C99 and apollo 11. I'm excited for these babies and have been wanting to get them in some coco for a while now. I'll keep everyone updated. Cheers!
So out of eleven beans ten germinated. Out of those ten I am down to eight beside I tossed two because they were runts and not really growing. I'm not afraid to cull any plant. if they don't make my expectations, I trash them quickly.
The germinated seeds were placed in solo cups of tupur. Twice a day before the third set of true leaves, I sprayed the the coco with 6.0ph water. At the same time as the third set of leaves grew, roots started popping out the bottom of the cups sms that's when I start top feeding. I start with 2ml a gallon of heavy 16 grow A&B. After about two feedings I upped the amount to 4ml a gallon. Right now they are happy with just that.
The germinated seeds were placed in solo cups of tupur. Twice a day before the third set of true leaves, I sprayed the the coco with 6.0ph water. At the same time as the third set of leaves grew, roots started popping out the bottom of the cups sms that's when I start top feeding. I start with 2ml a gallon of heavy 16 grow A&B. After about two feedings I upped the amount to 4ml a gallon. Right now they are happy with just that.
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Princess Haze, sounds very nice. I like your decisive approach re: runts.
Moose,
I have read similar studies using different mediums. It was my understanding any medium with >40-60 ppm of P will inhibit association of mycorrhizal fungi. The symbiosis evolved to exchange carbon from photosynthesis for water/P/etc when these resources are scarce or inaccessible.
Trichoderma species have high salt tolerance (1.6-1.8EC medium if I recall correctly) and respond well to abundant free nitrogen. I am led to believe from my own reading that it is diversity that suffers when nutrients are provided in readily uptaken forms, rather than a wholesale sanitation of the medium through salinity. It does stand to thinking that each type of microbe will respond differently to varying salt levels.
Bit off topic. Mostly just jacking off mentally.
Moose,
I have read similar studies using different mediums. It was my understanding any medium with >40-60 ppm of P will inhibit association of mycorrhizal fungi. The symbiosis evolved to exchange carbon from photosynthesis for water/P/etc when these resources are scarce or inaccessible.
Trichoderma species have high salt tolerance (1.6-1.8EC medium if I recall correctly) and respond well to abundant free nitrogen. I am led to believe from my own reading that it is diversity that suffers when nutrients are provided in readily uptaken forms, rather than a wholesale sanitation of the medium through salinity. It does stand to thinking that each type of microbe will respond differently to varying salt levels.
Bit off topic. Mostly just jacking off mentally.
Princess haze has been sexed. I ended up with 5 ladies out of 11 popped. I have been on a search to find some pictures of princess in veg, which has turned out to be a difficult task. Ph5 took about ten more days than the rest to show her sex. So right now I am working with princess haze(PH) 1,4,5,9, and 10. There is still much more vegging time to be had and I need to make some back up clones just incase there is a keeper or two in that bunch. All these princess haze ladies are a little more on the cal hungry side of things compared to rest of my stable. Until next time take care and keep elevated
Always in order PH1,4,5,9, and 10
Always in order PH1,4,5,9, and 10
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Well thank you brotha. Most of my pictures are under dirt_tales on ig. I abandoned that account because the wife didn't like all the tits and ass i had in my search. I will throw up some pictures from future runs. Right now I can show you some death valley cheese.
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I'm about to take some cuts and I was thinking this was a great time to explain my cloning technique. Personally i think my results come from my cleaning process not my actual clone taking process.
Cleaning my cloner takes about three days. Day one I run a strong bleach solution through my cloner. I run that solution with my pump constantly running for 24 hours. After the bleach run,I rinse the cloner out and fill with four gallons of water and two pints of hydrogen peroxide for two. I run that solution for 48 hours and do a quick rinse. That's all the cleaning I do! It's that simple.
My cloner is a diy cloner made out of a roughneck tote and holds 23 cuttings. I fill it up with 4 gallons of water and add 50ml of clonex solution and set ph to 5.8.
I cut long clones and place them in a cup of tap water for 24 hours. After that it's cloning time. I cut clones down to size with a razor, lightly drag the razor up and down the stem, cut big fan leaf tips and dip into clonex gel for 15 seconds.
My cloner sits off to the side of a 8 bulb 4 foot t5. The pump is plugged into a apollo fixed short timer that runs on for one minute and off for four minutes. That timer is what keeps res temps down. I change res every 5 days.
I don't really care about cloning times or anything. I get clones ready to go in about 3 weeks. I could transplant at 2 weeks usually but I like giving them extra time so I can pick and choose which ones i want.
Cleaning my cloner takes about three days. Day one I run a strong bleach solution through my cloner. I run that solution with my pump constantly running for 24 hours. After the bleach run,I rinse the cloner out and fill with four gallons of water and two pints of hydrogen peroxide for two. I run that solution for 48 hours and do a quick rinse. That's all the cleaning I do! It's that simple.
My cloner is a diy cloner made out of a roughneck tote and holds 23 cuttings. I fill it up with 4 gallons of water and add 50ml of clonex solution and set ph to 5.8.
I cut long clones and place them in a cup of tap water for 24 hours. After that it's cloning time. I cut clones down to size with a razor, lightly drag the razor up and down the stem, cut big fan leaf tips and dip into clonex gel for 15 seconds.
My cloner sits off to the side of a 8 bulb 4 foot t5. The pump is plugged into a apollo fixed short timer that runs on for one minute and off for four minutes. That timer is what keeps res temps down. I change res every 5 days.
I don't really care about cloning times or anything. I get clones ready to go in about 3 weeks. I could transplant at 2 weeks usually but I like giving them extra time so I can pick and choose which ones i want.
Let's talk about princess haze. There are a few different phenos going on. 5 and 9 aren't as vigorous and are a little smaller. The internodes on the main stem on 4, 5, and 9 are the closest but all the internodes on all the branches are quite far apart. That might be due to the fact they are under a t5 that is a little too far away but ohhh well. The smells on all of them are similar and quite loud but very hard for me to describe. Check out the leaf variations from plant to plant. In order 1, 4, 5, 9, and 10
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This is my girl FloValleyOG. The dirtiest og tasting Flo. It is a cross of a special Flo og (rare dankness) x sin valley og (sin city seeds) male. I personally think this is what Flo og should of been. She is just an average producer but with flowers like this it's worth it. I know the trim job isn't that tight, but it is for me and I don't mind
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With this round i decided to change things some. I I went with 2 gallon smart pots instead of 3's. Right now I'm at either the third or fourth week of veg. They still have about 3 more weeks left before I flip them. I wanted to try 2's because I wanted to multi feed quicker. Usually by week 4 I'm just starting to feed twice a day. Up until that point they only get feed once a day. Right now I'm hand feeding twice a day and that started about five days ago. Now it's time to get the rez cleaned and drip lines in place.
When the drip lines are working I like to keep the coco moist. I achieve the proper moisture level by using a moisture meter. I will feed as many times a day I need to maintain a reading of 4-5.5 on my meter with minimal runoff.
I wish I could give you all a EC of my feed solution but that's not something I go by. I fill my rez everyday and make a new solution everyday to tailor to the specific needs of those girls that day.
Here is my girl FloValleyOG and my trusty moisture meter.
When the drip lines are working I like to keep the coco moist. I achieve the proper moisture level by using a moisture meter. I will feed as many times a day I need to maintain a reading of 4-5.5 on my meter with minimal runoff.
I wish I could give you all a EC of my feed solution but that's not something I go by. I fill my rez everyday and make a new solution everyday to tailor to the specific needs of those girls that day.
Here is my girl FloValleyOG and my trusty moisture meter.
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