Programmable thermostat for window banger A/C

BorkBorkBork

Member

• Feb 15, 2011

• #1

Has anyone used one of these before? I've been trying to find a way to get lower night temps in my setup (my temps are steeeeeeeeady, varying only a few degrees total). Came across these, and they seem ideal.

I'm thinking I may just pick up one of the cheapy amazon ones and give it a try.

I know my A/C (6k btu) manual said to run on a circuit by itself, but do you think it would be safe to run the A/C AND the 4in Vortex I'm using to exhaust it on this thing?

http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-tmpdne-adjustable-heatingcooling-thermostat-p-360.html

http://www.amazon.com/WIN100-Heatin...NYY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1297810891&sr=8-1

 

growshopfrank

Well-known member

Veteran

• Feb 16, 2011

• #2

The win100 is very nice easy to program and they have a "refrigeration" anti short cycle setting that you want for an ac as well as four time based temperature settings lot of bang for your buck IMHO
I'm currently using three WIN100's staging three 5K window shakers one set to 72 one set to 74 and the last at 78 cools 4k in open reflectors (ballast out of room) without cycling the third ac more than five min per hour all in all it does a excellent job of cooling and dehumidifying

 

BorkBorkBork

Member

• Feb 16, 2011

• #3

Excellent!

Does it have a remote thermostat, or is the thermostat built into the base itself? Remote would be ideal (to measure at canopy, rather than at my a/c's electrical outlet, which is near the ceiling).

 

P

potlatch

• Feb 16, 2011

• #4

The WIN100 has a stubby probe--see it at amazon.

Make sure your A/C is "black out compatible", meaning it will come back on when power is restored. Some come back on but with a default setting like 72F. Running off the WIN100, you'd likely have that set for a higher temp anyway.

 

Bunz

Active member

• Feb 16, 2011

• #5

Make sure your window a/c unit has auto restart.................if it doesn't, no controller made will work correctly, and it will reset to factory settings when the controller powers the a/c unit on. I made the mistake of buying one that didn't have auto restart.

 

P

potlatch

• Feb 16, 2011

• #6

Yeah, what he said.

 

BorkBorkBork

Member

• Feb 16, 2011

• #7

Yep, already tested the A/C to make sure it can handle a power event.

My plan is to set the controls to 69 at night at 75 at day, and set the AC itself to 69. Sound about right?

 

Bunz

Active member

• Feb 16, 2011

• #8

Set the a/c for about 67. I've noticed most devices aren't calibrated exactly the same and there will be a 2 or 3 degree variance in temperature. Your controller will probably be more accurate then your a/c unit.

Bunz

 

BorkBorkBork

Member

• Feb 19, 2011

• #9

Roger Dodger.

I went with the C.A.P device due to the remote sensor. Hope it works a charm.

Thanks folks!

 

caljim

I'm on the edge. Of what I'm not sure.

Veteran

• Feb 19, 2011

• #10

That CAP DNE is a good unit, but i've welded the contacts on the 1st one I used with just one 5500 btu a/c.

The units rated for 15 amps, my a/c draws 5 amps. welded the contacts closed in 2 months. It just cant handle all the switching.

The problem was solved by having the CAP DNE drive a 30 amp contactor that handles the load of the a/c. Actually I've been running two 5500btu a/c units off of this set up and it has worked perfectly for over 2 years now.

 

Cannabean

Active member

• Feb 19, 2011

• #11

I use the CAP tmp-dne on my 10k btu window banger ac for my tent. works like a charm. I love CAP products, very well made and last.

 

BorkBorkBork

Member

• Feb 22, 2011

• #12

caljim said:

That CAP DNE is a good unit, but i've welded the contacts on the 1st one I used with just one 5500 btu a/c.

The units rated for 15 amps, my a/c draws 5 amps. welded the contacts closed in 2 months. It just cant handle all the switching.

The problem was solved by having the CAP DNE drive a 30 amp contactor that handles the load of the a/c. Actually I've been running two 5500btu a/c units off of this set up and it has worked perfectly for over 2 years now.

Click to expand...

Hmm, interesting. I did a quick Google search for "30 amp contactor", I assume you made a housing or something for it? Or does it go into your breaker box?