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Powdery fucking mildew?

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Eagle is the only shit that worked for me. No more PM. No more mites thanks to floramite. All done right before flipping so no residues.

And that's the way it's done. All before flipping.

I was trying to explain that, but I spilled my milk.
 

johnnyla

Active member
Veteran
And that's the way it's done. All before flipping.

I was trying to explain that, but I spilled my milk.


Sometimes easy is smart.

I saw pics in another thread of this dudes stunted plants. He has like 15 different soil additives, all natural, all organic. Super complicated. He literally is a soil chef and designs his own soil. It must be tons of work. Anyways, his plants suck! I don't feel like making my own batches of soil. I don't have time. I also don't have time to fuck around with milk, or Zone/Penetrator (works great for a few days) or Greencure. 2ml per gallon with 30 drops of floramite and i nuked the mites and the PM in one spray. Boo yeah. This is coming from someone who lost his last crop to PM. Good luck.
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Share the knowledge brotha! I had a problem with PM and used Greencure to get me through harvest, it worked like a charm.. But, what are these fungicides you speak of??

See my post on page 1 of this thread. Also, the Mod's post on page 2 he lists "Sovran" which is also a good fungicide.

Done properly in veg, just before you flip, you will have no more worries for the balance of the grow.

Fuming (or burning) sulfur can kill mildew, but will not prevent a reoccurrence. Also, breathing fuming sulfer is more dangerous then most pesticides, and especially so for asthmatics.

Fungicides today are high tech. Some have one mode of action, the newer ones have 2 modes of actions.

Rally, Elite, Bayleton, Eagle, Pristine, Flint, Sovran and others are all good. They all work for 21 to 28 days, even if there are spores floating around, they cannot attach to the leaf or plant as the systemic action prevent the attachment in different ways for different products. That's why I usually rotate my products each grow.
 
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Norkali

Active member
lol, the irony is you come into a thread sucking up to
one poster and insulting another, no helpful advice,
just bullshit, ...and you don't even realize how small
that makes you look. . .putz.

here, as you didn't seem to realize it was you i was
speaking to i'll reiterate.

the minute you begin to believe you know everything
you become a fool standing in your own way.

moron.jpg


Grapeman nailed it, why add anything else? As said - Milk? amateur hour buddy. Took a look at your gallery.....Hah!

Why don't you come back and talk shit when you can grow something like this?

picture.php


Pound sand kid.
 

Xtensity

Member
Don't use neem in flowering for PM..

You can spray the plants directly with %3 H202. Just go to the store and buy the brown bottle, pour some of it in a spray bottle and don't dilute it because it already is diluted.

DON'T SPRAY IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT.

You can also spray with a 50% dilution of milk(I use 2%), though less fat is better so you don't clog your sprayer.

There's also plenty of organic products you can buy from the store that you can spray up till harvest date. I have about 4 of them in my cabinet. They'll say on the bottles if they can be sprayed till harvest date.

You can also use a sulfur burner if it is extreme.


There's sooo many treatments for PM.

I like H202 the best since it is chemically the safest. Dissolves fast, doesn't hurt leaves or affect taste, and acts as an antibacterial.
 

cannaboy

Member
Just get a sulpher burner then you don't need to worry.

I just read the thread and It seem even rez had the answer..
 

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
Grapeman nailed it, why add anything else? As said - Milk? amateur hour buddy. Took a look at your gallery.....Hah!

Why don't you come back and talk shit when you can grow something like this?

picture.php


Pound sand kid.

lol, the great Douche Baggy Bag has spoken, lol.

have you looked in your gallery dude?

here, so you know what real nugs look like instead of your little miniatures, lol.
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so, for all the help you have contributed here i salute you, now go grow some more popcorn, lol.

picture.php


peace, SOG
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Sometimes easy is smart.

I saw pics in another thread of this dudes stunted plants. He has like 15 different soil additives, all natural, all organic. Super complicated. He literally is a soil chef and designs his own soil. It must be tons of work. Anyways, his plants suck! I don't feel like making my own batches of soil. I don't have time. I also don't have time to fuck around with milk, or Zone/Penetrator (works great for a few days) or Greencure. 2ml per gallon with 30 drops of floramite and i nuked the mites and the PM in one spray. Boo yeah. This is coming from someone who lost his last crop to PM. Good luck.

Only complicated to someone who did not make it past 3rd grade or so. I doubt you saw any pictures as there are none.

Keep using greencure. You deserve it.
 
So grapeman are you going to label Rez a dumbass too?
See I read your info when I had pm problems before.
And as the pm god I think you should maybe back up your position, and state that though water kills pm, it also gives it a place to establish.
Oh yeah and you should get your facts straight. The canna version of PM thrives in low humidity. Its downy mildew that thrives in humidity.
Bottom line, since I started using hi ph surface treatments pm has gone away. Wow it worked even though I`m a huge dumbass and didn`t hop on your synthetic systemic corporate elephant piss train. Weird, must just be some fluke of nature for this poor dumbass. Hey yall dont use any method i suggest you may be labeled a dumbass cuz you aren`t treating your crop the way a vineyard would.
 

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
So grapeman are you going to label Rez a dumbass too?
See I read your info when I had pm problems before.
And as the pm god I think you should maybe back up your position, and state that though water kills pm, it also gives it a place to establish.
Oh yeah and you should get your facts straight. The canna version of PM thrives in low humidity. Its downy mildew that thrives in humidity.
Bottom line, since I started using hi ph surface treatments pm has gone away. Wow it worked even though I`m a huge dumbass and didn`t hop on your synthetic systemic corporate elephant piss train. Weird, must just be some fluke of nature for this poor dumbass. Hey yall dont use any method i suggest you may be labeled a dumbass cuz you aren`t treating your crop the way a vineyard would.
rotflmao, and milk works too if you use it right!

peace, SOG
 
And may I also propose that preventing a problem is just silly when you can throw chemicals at it until it develops a resistance and a brand new unkillable strain pops up, much as the pyrethin resistant mites have.
I mean chemicals straight on the plant are such a good way of killing off all the spores you cant see coating your walls, floor, lights, clothes, fans and everything else. Damn you would be a dumbass to think otherwise.
Gall its weird like half the people on ICMAG that have cured PM used burners; especially since its such a 1900`s cure; and we would all be much better off putting in the time to learn all about some fancy new age chemicals we cant do without.
 
lol someotherguy...
I have used milk, it didnt work well for me. Both neem and zone worked better. Earthjuice PH up is a more powerful form of milk. It kills on contact much better and is just overall stronger. Shit its probably cheaper ultimately too; but same problem with spraying is pm likes moisture and you just cant possibly spray everything. I know my burner is doing the same thing but is hitting EVERYTHING!
 

dmt

Active member
Veteran
honestly, dip lil clones in meltitox before transplanting.

the mildew is a symptom of a disease that robs vital immune energy from them. m goes into the plant and kills it. it is strong so gloves and mask are needed. but use correctly and eliminating pm for good with having to use it alot will do, peace, d
 

Norkali

Active member
lol, the great Douche Baggy Bag has spoken, lol.

have you looked in your gallery dude?

here, so you know what real nugs look like instead of your little miniatures, lol.


so, for all the help you have contributed here i salute you, now go grow some more popcorn, lol.

peace, SOG

Hook, line, and sinker. Where are all the trichomes!? :laughing:

Here you go buddy:

picture.php


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Now...................are you ready for it?


picture.php


OH SHIT! A whole closet full o' those beauties! :thank you:
Now that we've whipped our e-peens out, and decided to post up our 'work'...people can decide for themselves who to believe based upon these shots. LOL
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
So grapeman are you going to label Rez a dumbass too?
See I read your info when I had pm problems before.
And as the pm god I think you should maybe back up your position, and state that though water kills pm, it also gives it a place to establish.
Oh yeah and you should get your facts straight. The canna version of PM thrives in low humidity. Its downy mildew that thrives in humidity.
Bottom line, since I started using hi ph surface treatments pm has gone away. Wow it worked even though I`m a huge dumbass and didn`t hop on your synthetic systemic corporate elephant piss train. Weird, must just be some fluke of nature for this poor dumbass. Hey yall dont use any method i suggest you may be labeled a dumbass cuz you aren`t treating your crop the way a vineyard would.

You see, that just shows a lack of intelligence on your part. How would I know if Rez is an organic guy or not? Organic guys use half measures. Just fuming sulfer in a room will kill (some), but never prevent. I think I said that already.

However, I would not hesitate to do so if he or anyone else challenged my knowledge of the disease or how best to cure it.

BTW - I use sulfer for prevention. Dusting sulfer or sometime micronized wettable sulfer in between fungicide sprays as a preventative. It only works if the day time temps get over 93+ degrees. Then it fumes a bit and will kill some spores. But even it that form, there is a re-entry period of 48 hours if the temps are over 95 degrees, due to the unhealthy side effect of breathing the fumes. And that's outside in the open air.

So why would anyone fuck around with half measures (including Rez or anyone else) unless they are growing organic, getting bad advice or too poor to buy a proper treatment. Like I said, it's cheaper then milk, safer then sulfer and it shits all over both combined in effectiveness.

That clear enough for you?
 
Part of having a garden is having preventatives AND cures for things like mites, thrips and pm that YOU are comfortable with ON HAND AT ALL TIMES. We literally have everything we need to take care of any problem the second we see it. Not being prepared means that a problem could spread quickly and kill your harvest while you're running around town trying to find something or waiting for it to be delivered to your house.

And yes, we have a sulphur burner and lots of sulphur as well as all kinds of other things.

Be prepared for anything. It's well worth the money.

The only weird thing we've ever had was what I had last winter. I'll share that here. You get a stem that starts getting soft and looks like pm but only on part of the stem. This happens on hydro systems with drip rings. The solution is to wrap that part of the stem with a bandage and then cover with tin foil to let it dry out. The prevention is to get a clean, water proof container and put a hole in the bottom of it. Put is around the stem of the plant with the bottom facing upward while the plant is still small. This will make sure that your stem isn't constantly getting soaked by the drip ring.

Mr. Mountain says that floramite sc is the best thing for mites. I don't know how it works or whether it works for pm.
 
S

Surfr

Thinkin about burning some sulfur.. How late in flower can you burn till??
 
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