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DIY - Led diode + Cob build question

Hey guys.
HPS was all good,
LED panel, 5 weeks into flower, looking good.


what to take it up a notch, for the next


looking at the cree cxb3590 x16
got the drivers all sorted out and passive cooling, so that's all sorted.


Read cob was all great, but it does miss out a few spectrums or whatever nm


so I saw people adding royal blue and reds to their frame etc.
then adding uvb, then some white light. (all over the web etc)


caught up in the gusto of making something awesome I looked around.


need a bit of help figuring out the fine tuning.


So 16cxb3590, servicing a 5x5 on a frame.
on this frame I was thinking scattered around evenly


50x royal blue 3w led
50x full spectrum 3w led
50x far red 3w led
50x uvb 3w led


royal blue and full spectrum on full time
far red going on for 20 mins at the end of the day
uv going on for a few hours every day


already have 2x g8 red/deep red ufo, will be on full time when its flower.


I managed to dwaddle my way through figuring out the drivers needed for the cobs.


but the smaller ones have thrown me for ? reason


so finally my question



**edit**


just had lunch and realized I wasn't making sense, so deleted it


3w led x50 (2.0-2.6v700mAIR) not 100% sure what this means tbh
but what size driver would I need to power it if running in series at 600ma
for some reason I was thinking a 50w driver would do it?, but maybe more realistically 70-100w driver?
I will have 4 groups of led
I don't even know if im saying anything right
but anyhelp would be greatly appreciated
 
Last edited:

Sinfor

New member
In series voltages are added.
To consider:
Red LEDs work with less power than blue and full spectrum.
Normally 1w 3w 5w LEDs works at 40-50% of its rated power.
 
update
gone and purchased 24 cobs.
20 citi 1216 90cri in 3 & 3.5 k for flower room (48w a cob)
4 3590 - 2 5000k 2 4000k for veg (57w a cob, from memory)
and all the heatsinks, drivers and adaptors needed.
kingbrite are pretty helpful,
just waiting on shipping.
will figure out the supplemental lighting later down on the road.


3590 will go into a 4x4 tent on a x frame, one at the end of each etc.


citi, was thinking of making 5 sets of 4 cobs
each frame being spaced 14 inches from each heatsink ending, then staggering them in offset positions like the crude pic below, the green things are the plants
then spacing each frame between 12-14 inches apart.
was able to find a dimmer that worked up to 5 MW drivers,


if I were to do separate frames whats the thickness of aluminium angle I need? I was thinking 2mm thick (I think that's 0.1 of an inch?)


if I were to connect it all up, then would I do 3 mm? which is 1/8,
would this be an effective light set up?
any pointers or tips from anyone who went through this would really be great.
Its great reading through other conversations, but I get a bit overloaded when its not yours etc...
 

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Hey guys/gals


need a bit of your help.
got all my goodies delivered, got my frame.
initial planning stage, but im a bit stumped.


I have 6 led drivers, brought 2 dimmers, which they said can connect up to 5 mw drivers. So 1 dimmer for one driver in veg, 1 dimmer for 5 drivers in flower.


drivers have 3 cords to be connected to a mains plug, 2 wires to led, and 2 wires to the dimmer. Watched a few clips on utube and thought I had it sorted.


But looking at the dimmer booklet I get confused.
from my understanding, its a bit different from what ive been watching

I connect/wire the mains power straight to the dimmer,
then off to the driver? which is different to the pentiometers I have been seeing on utube etc.
then I get more confused, the dimmer only has 2 connections /neutral and live,
what am I supposed to do with the ground wire on the driver?
on top of that I have to connect 5 all up to one dimmer


https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com...ng_funciton.html?spm=a2700.8304367.0.0.ZAuLrw
this is the dimmer
anyone had experience with what im going on about?
one dimmer to control them all would be easier then adjusting everything 5 times and guessing if they are even
 
B

bigganjabud

I'd go

50x 3w far red
50x 3w deep red
30x 3w light blue
30x 3w dark blue
10x green
10x warm white
10x cool white
10x uva
10x uvb

And about

6x cobb cree full spec chips with appropriate drivers for everything on 5w diodes

(Tbh not sure if that made a lot of sense but swap wrong words for what you knows correct and you'll get the maths of the equation)

Also cree with max diodes and different angles of lens produce different lights all together, so look on some of the "best" led lights and then write common factors down, with common tweaks between company's, and specs and angles of lensthen find someone who basically got that light and ask for your "special tweaks" on a light that...

A) your happy with

B) works well

And

C) gives the company a basis for helping us growers with there input to create the perfect led grow and flower lights
 
B

bigganjabud

For example one company "guaranteed 64000k flower light."

be advertisd as a "1200w equivalent" but only draw 360w actual power as its like Erm pies!

For example

Buy a pie for 20p and don't expect much of any filling possible just gravey

Spend £20 on a pie you expect a blow job whole it's on route to ya table

Also a £20 pricetag doesn't guarantee more than air as a filling!!

Same way you buy "bud" ya never know best pheno or worst or what part of the plant it comes from unless ya give a bit of input
Send em a message (the people making your light or the components either way Oversized drivers and diode and pronounced angle of lens should see ya good, don't blame em for generic output if you ain't specified what ya wanting)
 

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