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Powdery fucking mildew?

C

calverde

New member
I'm 3 1/2 weeks into flowering and just noticed the dreaded dust. Looked through a 30x scope and it appeared as white hairy stuff that resembled insulation, I guess its PFM. To the eye, it looks like white dust on the top of the leaves only. It's only on a very small portion of my crop. My RH is low...20-35% and temps at 78-83 F. I think I was crowded out and had low air flow when the light is off....only one fan on low.

What do I do to get rid of the shit when I'm this deep into flowering?

I've increased the air flow, rotated the crop, and spaced to help them breath better. Do you think the IPM will cure it?

Thanks for any ideas.
 
twiztidbudsmoke

twiztidbudsmoke

Active member
Yes wait and see if you dried it out and killed it, but if it spreads even a little I would hit it with neem oil asap, just avoid the buds when spraying. Figure out where its coming from, bleach and lysol can be your best friend in cleaning your room and ridding yourself of the spores
 
Mr. Greengenes

Mr. Greengenes

Re-incarnated Senior Member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Sounds like you did most of the right stuff to treat PM already. Also, pruning off the affected leaves will help prevent spreading.
 
redspaghetti

redspaghetti

love machine
ICMag Donor
Veteran
dutch master zone at 10 ml per gal mix with dutch master penetrator or saturator at 60 ml per gal/
dips and spray, add a few drop of soaps

too late to use mildewcure and other stuff since you 3 weeks in flower .. . . you can try to control them with milk or h202 but i dont think you can wipe them all out,,

Eagle 20 when you start your next run, spray em good and never worry bout mildew again

cheers,
red.
 
M

montanaorganics

Member
Forget about neem oil, zone, eagle whatever. These are temporary controls. Best thing I have found in these regards is earthjuice ph up, mix it till u have a ph of 8 to 9, add some saturator and spray everything twice.
Your humidity level is optimal for PM so you could raise humidity.

But nothing works like a sulfur burner. Get one now, run it 2 hours 3 times before week 6 EVERYWHERE you need to. This is the only viable solution I have found. I sprayed countless gallons to have it come back in week 6 or 7 on the buds and ruin a harvest. Go get a sulfur vaporizer.
 
T

Tr33

redspaghetti said:
dutch master zone at 10 ml per gal mix with dutch master penetrator or saturator at 60 ml per gal/
dips and spray, add a few drop of soaps

too late to use mildewcure and other stuff since you 3 weeks in flower .. . . you can try to control them with milk or h202 but i dont think you can wipe them all out,,

Eagle 20 when you start your next run, spray em good and never worry bout mildew again

cheers,
red.
Click to expand...


Just be careful with this stuff, it will fry your plants, and kill the PM forever.
 
C

calverde

New member
Thanks for the responses! It is really awesome that you guys help out. I hope I can repay the favor some time with my knowledge.

By the way, I did cut out most of it as well. I'll cut the rest out tonight. It amounts to about a 8-10 fan leaves on two plants in a crop of 11 plants that are about 4 feet tall. But I still fucking hate that shit!

I'll look into all your suggestions but for now, my grow store had Mildew Cure so I picked it up. Is there a reason I should be concerned because of flowering? It's just oil, right? It's Cottonseed oil 30%, Corn oil 30%, and Garlic oil 23%+ inert. Sounds like something I'd put on corn on the cob! I'll have plenty of time to flush that shit out anyway....is what I was thinking. I'm guessing I've got 3-4 weeks left in flowering. However, it is a fungicide so I'm going to have to do a little more research before I nuke em.

Has anyone tried it? Has it worked for you?
 
Kcar

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
I really like GreenCure during flowering. Just don't spray the buds as it will burn the pistils.
 
B

bigbuds420

New member
If you burn sulfur burner, only run when light are off. I usually do right before i flip to 12/12. If you burn sulfur while flowering, it will stay on flower= no good. Dont burn during bloom!
 
Han Grolo

Han Grolo

Member
montanaorganics said:
Best thing I have found in these regards is earthjuice ph up, mix it till u have a ph of 8 to 9, add some saturator and spray everything twice.
Click to expand...

Ive noticed spraying earth juice PH'ed up water to work as good as zone/penetrator. Never thought of mixing the saturator with the water. That's a good tip.
 
M

montanaorganics

Member
It is basically potassium bicarbonate; the same working ingredient in milk just way more powerful. Kills PM on contact and the hi ph keeps fungis from growing again. My best use was sprayed once every 2 weeks.
Problem with PM is if u see it it is everywhere in spore form that you cant see. Problem with spraying is PM loves to grow in wet spots. Establishes at night and grows in our near perfect cycle at scary rates.
 
M

montanaorganics

Member
I totally nuked PM after 2 burns. Now that I have control I never run it on bud plants over 5 weeks but having a perpetual something is always in bud. I have detected zero residue. Neither has anybody receiving my product.
Bottom line is my product goes to sick patients. A miniscule film of elemental sulfur is nothing compared to unseeable fungi spores capable of causing extreme infections in immunocompromised peoples.

By the way a couple of hours of 100 degree heat work well too, though that is hard to incorporate.
 
someotherguy

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
all you need is milk man, if you have it so bad you
need harsh chemicals then you let it go too far.

here is some info i found when looking for a PM
solution in my own grow.

btw, since then i've never needed anything but
milk to control PM, actually, i've not seen any
in close to a year now.

peace, SOG

Milk is a useful fungicide in the garden, and is more effective than standard chemical brands.


Researchers believe the potassium phosphate in milk boosts a plant's immune system to fight the fungi.

Where most organic gardeners use a baking soda, soap and oil solution, milk may be substituted to combat the unwanted fungus.

Preparing a Milk Solution and Spraying Schedule

The correct dilution and spraying schedule for garden plants depends on the situation and takes some trial and error.

A milk fungicide solution can range from 1 part milk to 9 parts water, to a strong, milk-only solution. A 1:1 dilution may work for a week, but a 1:8 solution requires spraying every 3 or 4 days.

Skim milk may work better than whole milk, as the higher fat milk may clog a sprayer; even reconstituted powdered milk works.

Uses for Milk Fungicide

Milk was originally used in the garden to treat powdery mildew on squash plants. It is now also commonly used on flowers such as rudebekia (Black-eyed Susans) and Begonias to cure powdery mildew.

Milk has also been used to cure Botrytis on a Cyclamen houseplant. This was applied full strength every morning (leftover breakfast milk). Rotten leaves were picked away and the plant pulled through with no more Botrytis.

Black spots and rust on roses can be controlled but not cured with milk. Fortunately, milk can prevent the spread of these fungi to other plants and new leaves. This can be very useful when bringing home a plant from the nursery and finding a black spot.


The copyright of the article Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in Organic Gardening is owned by Deborah Turton. Permission to republish Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


by Arzeena Hamir
Powdery Mildew

Less than 3 years ago, researchers in South America discovered a new alternative to controlling powdery mildew. Wagner Bettiol, a scientist from Brazil, found that weekly sprays of milk controlled powdery mildew in zucchini just as effectively as synthetic fungicides such as fenarimol or benomyl. Not only was milk found to be effective at controlling the disease, it also acted as a foliar fertilizer, boosting the plant's immune system.

Powdery mildew in the cucurbit family is caused by the organism Sphaerotheca Fuliginea. It is a serious disease that occurs worldwide. For decades, organic gardeners had to rely on making a spray from baking soda to control the disease. Now, instead of measuring out the baking soda and combining it with a surfactant (a "sticking" substance) of either oil or soap, gardeners need only head for their refrigerators.

In his experiments with zucchini plants, Bettiol found that a weekly spray of milk at a concentration of at least 10% (1 part milk to 9 parts water) significantly reduced the severity of powdery mildew infection on the plants by 90%. While some gardeners may be tempted to increase the concentration of milk for more control, Bettiol found that once concentrations rose above 30%, an innoccuous fungus began to grow on the plants. How does milk control powdery mildew?

Scientist aren't 100% sure how milk works to control this disease. It seems that milk is a natural germicide. In addition, it contains several naturally occurring salts and amino acids that are taken up by the plant. From previous experiments using sodium bicarbonate, potassium phosphate, and other salts, researchers have found that the disease is sensitive to these salts. It is possible then, that milk boosts the plant's immune system to prevent the disease.

Milk used around the world
The benefits of using milk to control powdery mildew haven't been isolated to Brazil. Melon growers in New Zealand are saving thousands of dollars every year by spraying their crops with milk instead of synthetic fungicides. The melon growers in New Zealand have been so successful that the wine industry is taking notice and beginning experiments using milk to control powdery mildew in grapes.

What kind of milk should be used?
In Bettiol's original experiment, fresh milk was used, straight from the cow. However, this is obviously not feasible to most home gardeners. The research work in New Zealand actually found that using skim milk was just as effective. Not only was it cheaper, but the fact that the milk had no fat content meant that there was less chance of any odours.

Wagner Bettiol's original article was published in the journal Crop Science (Vol. 18, 1999, pp. 489-92).
 
T

tokinafaty420

Be very very careful about increasing air flow now. PM is a fungus and reproduces through spores. You could start spreading those spores around your whole garden if not careful. Remove all infected plant parts and start treatment ASAP.

BTW PM loves conditions that are humid, warm (under 90F, 90-100F will actually kill off PM, but it will also kill your plants), acidic conditions. Alkaline conditions will kill PM.
 
grapeman

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
montanaorganics said:
Forget about neem oil, zone, eagle whatever. These are temporary controls. Best thing I have found in these regards is earthjuice ph up, mix it till u have a ph of 8 to 9, add some saturator and spray everything twice.
Your humidity level is optimal for PM so you could raise humidity.

But nothing works like a sulfur burner. Get one now, run it 2 hours 3 times before week 6 EVERYWHERE you need to. This is the only viable solution I have found. I sprayed countless gallons to have it come back in week 6 or 7 on the buds and ruin a harvest. Go get a sulfur vaporizer.
Click to expand...

This is the dumbest advice I have ever seen.
1) it is NOT too late to use a fungicide and I would get one ASAP.
2) Eagle, Elite, Bayleton, Pristine and others are specific fungicides for the killing and prevention of PM. You can buy the ones some have suggested here, but these are weak and over the counter products that I would never trust my crop to.
3) Raising humidity, will only make conditions MORE favorable to PM.
4) Sulfur, while a good preventative in AG, is less so in this crop. Why? Because we apply sulfur dust and wettable sulfer directly on the leaf as a preventative every week or 2 during the growing season and NEVER as a cure, because it isn't a cure. Just fuming sulfur may kill some, but it is not a preventative.
5) All the crap you listed is just that. Crap.
6) If it was my crop, and I did not have a proper fungicide as listed above, I would order some NOW. Once mildew is established, it cannot be eradicated with play toys. I would now boost my air flow and spray water with a good surfactant on all leaves (top and bottom) and stems. Water KILLS mildew. Wetter water works best (that's why we use surfactants). When my fungicide arrives, I would apply on all plants and the products I listed above, will carry you through to harvest with one application.

From now on, apply a proper fungicide in Veg, just before you goes to flower and you won't see pm again, unless your pressure is high. If your pressure is high, clean your room, walls and floor. Mildew is spore borne and travels with the air.
 
Last edited:
someotherguy

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
grapeman said:
This is the dumbest advice I have ever seen.
1) it is NOT too late to use a fungicide and I would get on ASAP.
2) Eagle, Elite, Bayleton, Pristine and others are specific fungicides for the killing and prevention of PM. You can buy the ones some have suggested here, but these are weak and over the counter products that I would never trust my crop to.
3) Raising humidity, will only make conditions MORE favorable to PM.
4) Sulfur, while a good preventative in AG, is less so in this crop. Why? Because we apply sulfur dust and wettable sulfer as a preventative every week or 2 during the growing season and NEVER as a cure, because it isn't a cure. Just fuming sulfur may kill some, but it is not a preventative.
5) All the crap you listed is just that. Crap.
6) If it was my crop, and I did not have a proper fungicide as listed above, I would order some NOW. Once mildew is established, it cannot be eradicated with play toys. I would boost my air flow and spray water with a good surfactant on all leaves (top and bottom) and stems. Water KILS mildew. Wetter water works best (that's why we use surfactants). When my fungicide arrives, I would apply on all plants and the products I listed above, will carry you through to harvest with one application.

From now on, apply a proper fungicide in Veg, just before you goes to flower and you won't see pm again, unless your pressure is high. If your pressure is high, clean your room, walls and floor. Mildew is spore borne and travels with the air.
Click to expand...
did you read my post man? ...milk is all that is needed,
it's totally organic so can be used throughout the life
cycle and it not only kills the PM, it boosts the plants
immune system.

admittedly it won't eradicate the PM in one application
but so what, it's cheap, easy to find and easy to apply
and it won't taint your crop, even if you use it the day
before chop, ask MyNameStitch, or better yet, by her book.

...or read that info i posted above.

peace, SOG

btw, just 'cause i'm new here doesn't mean i'm a
noob, note i didn't just say 'use milk', i also posted
supporting evidence, i'm not talking out my ass.
 
Norkali

Norkali

Active member
someotherguy said:
did you read my post man? ...milk is all that is needed,
it's totally organic so can be used throughout the life
cycle and it not only kills the PM, it boosts the plants
immune system.

admittedly it won't eradicate the PM in one application
but so what, it's cheap, easy to find and easy to apply
and it won't taint your crop, even if you use it the day
before chop, ask MyNameStitch, or better yet, by her book.

...or read that info i posted above.

peace, SOG

btw, just 'cause i'm new here doesn't mean i'm a
noob, note i didn't just say 'use milk', i also posted
supporting evidence, i'm not talking out my ass.
Click to expand...

While you may not be 'talking out of your ass,' you sure still have some more learning to do. The guy knows what he's talking about for sure - trust me.

+1 Grape; I'm glad you still hang around here, you've been an awesome source of knowledge and gardening 'tactics', Thank-you.
 
someotherguy

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
Norkali said:
While you may not be 'talking out of your ass,' you sure still have some more learning to do. The guy knows what he's talking about for sure - trust me.

+1 Grape; I'm glad you still hang around here, you've been an awesome source of knowledge and gardening 'tactics', Thank-you.
Click to expand...

while that may be so, in fact, i agree it is so, ...that doesn't
mean i'm wrong...i meant no disrespect to grapeman.

none of us knows everything man, that's why i also
posted the evidence, so people could read and decide
for themselves what to do.

like i said above, i learned to use milk as a fungicide
from Stitch who is recognized throughout the canna
community as an authority on cannabis health and
treatment.

plus, i've used it myself so i KNOW it works, through
firsthand experience.

peace, SOG
 
S

Surfr

Greencure.. The stuff is amazing and can be applied till the day of harvest.. I used it once when I found PM on in my garden at week 8 and after the one application, I never saw it again. Since then I have bleached and painted my whole room..
 
HIGHINSP

HIGHINSP

Member
about to try milk

about to try milk

ive been reading this thread and another where someone posted about milk...i have three plants in flower right now...im about to spray them down for the first time...can i spray the buds???or just the infected leaves???should i use RO water of faucet wather since it has a higher ph???should i spray at night or in the morning???i need advice you can see my babies in my album...the maui super dawg. sour grapes, and uk chees all have issues...i can post up some more recent pics in the morning...1 high
 
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