Lighting schedules.

Mix and match is the order of the day. Using deep reds at dawn and dusk. What about a blast of blue midday? Putting that now defunct MH to work for half an hour or an hour.
Getting closer and closer to the natural light cycle, perhaps a flash of red in the afternoon to emulate cloud cover.
Maybe a bit carried away. Perhaps pure nonsense. I see hints of it in the forums anyway, especially when it comes to deep red.
Pure noob here, blatantly looking to benefit from the work of others. Hit me please.

Can’t wait to see your results! I run 13 light /11 dark as I feel I get better results, but got no actual data to back it up.

I'm definitely interested in your results. Tagged.

I'm lacking as far as ability to document. I would need a control along with more idea conditions and flat out more experience using lights.
I'm also currently finishing up a prior grow.
A PAR meter would probably be helpful. More lights are on my wish list as well.

In trying to fill a 5x5' tent, where on Timber Lights website, they recommend 900w (LED).
I have 400w COBs @3500k, 200w @ 3,000k, and 200w @ 1750k.
Currently I"m supplementing with a dimmable 1,000w HPS and 6500k CFL's. (250w +2x 125w)

The plan is, as other's have posted, to run the deep reds for 15 minutes before lights on and 15 after lights off. I think BurnOne was going just over 13 hours this way.

At lights on, I would add in the 200w 3,000k and 400w 3500k along with the 2100k HPS. The HPS would stay on for an hour followed by the 6500k cfl's that would stay on until late afternoon when the pattern would repeat in reverse order with the HPS coming back on.
Trying to work with what I got and not wanting to add cooling for the HPS. The cfl's defiantly need to be phased out.
I'd add in 200w of 4000k LED's for midday and at least 200w of 3000k LED's for full day.

Basically changing the ratio of red and blue through out the day to match the filtration done by the atmosphere with a burst in intensity at noon.

Not knowing what those ratios are or how to achieve them, other than trial and error resulting in spending lots of money I don't have. I was looking to copy more or less what's already been done.

give a look here: http://plantphys.info/

My browser said that link could be malicious, jikko.

Do you have another?

OP,
Why the Deep Reds in the morning?
They’re unnecessary at that time as Deep Red affects the phytochrome ratio which is responsible for triggering flower.

Why the decrease in total lumens/PAR through the day compared to morning & evening times?
Seems backward to me.

Without a control, what’s your baseline to judge the effectiveness of this schedule against?

Hope you have a bunch of timers all synchronized.

MJPassion said:

My browser said that link could be malicious, jikko.

Do you have another?<snip>

Click to expand...

Just delete the "https://" from the link and press the Enter key.

MJPassion said:

OP,
Why the Deep Reds in the morning?
They’re unnecessary at that time as Deep Red affects the phytochrome ratio which is responsible for triggering flower.

Why the decrease in total lumens/PAR through the day compared to morning & evening times?
Seems backward to me.

Without a control, what’s your baseline to judge the effectiveness of this schedule against?

Hope you have a bunch of timers all synchronized.

Click to expand...

Following the first link from Phaeton's post below, it explains the benefits of using a deep red in the morning. Basically, as I understand it, it is thought to signal the beginning and end of night making any light leaks in between insignificant.

From "[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Far red leds (730 nm)? "[/FONT]

Phaeton said:

https://plantphys.info/plant_physiology/photoperiodism.shtml

I put this link into threads every now and then. It covers the basics of how Far Red affects the flowering cycle.

https://plantphys.info/plant_physiology/light.shtml

This link is on light itself. Towards the end is an account of the Emerson Enhancement Effect which I think is what some folks associate with Far Red.
It is not really too complicated but the link has pictures and graphs which help to clarify.

Click to expand...

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=328607&page=5

Any loss of PAR during the day would be corrected by using different lights. Replacing the cfl's.

Other than the "z" diagram in the above link, I hadn't found out much about blue light.
https://gpnmag.com/article/effects-of-blue-light-on-plants/
By intensifying the blue, I could end up delaying flowering. Not my goal. If anything, I think a couple more 3,000k would be best.

It would only take a couple of timers , easily synchronized within a minute. I could use them to do a soft start as well as pushing a little more intensity with the semi retired HPS midday.

mind that used some early than eod could improve emerson effect, mind the timing

jikko77 said:

mind that used some early than eod could improve emerson effect, mind the timing

Click to expand...

That's generally what sparked my interest. It made me wonder how far other's have taken this concept.

I think the HPS with the COB's is a bust. Too much heat on my heatsinks.

My approach of adding blue during the day is skewed. Instead of red, red, blue, then more blue, the stress should be on red, red, red, blue, then less red.

so far i've just used some uvb lamp, but i've a bunch of xp-e far red waiting me to have free time and a bouble room for cloning. so not me yet. about far red, mind they are present in a 3k 90ish spectrum