Excellent!
Much respect for such honest and unbiased thread.
Much respect for such honest and unbiased thread.
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germinating seed position misconception solved (with pics)
- Thread starter kov
- Start date
CannabisPatient
Member
I totally agree with that ^.
Harpo
Active member
gravity is my friend
gravity is my friend
Practical application of gravity on root growth.
The root grows long and straight.
I always sprout seedlings so that gravity effects root growth.
Normally when you sprout in paper, the roots can be all curled up.
This makes it difficult to plant the seedling.
The long straight root facilitates planting.
I like to do it this way, because I know exactly how many seedlings have sprouted.
Here are some Mr Nice SSH seedlings going into the ground this evening.
umgawa
gravity is my friend
Practical application of gravity on root growth.
The root grows long and straight.
I always sprout seedlings so that gravity effects root growth.
Normally when you sprout in paper, the roots can be all curled up.
This makes it difficult to plant the seedling.
The long straight root facilitates planting.
I like to do it this way, because I know exactly how many seedlings have sprouted.
Here are some Mr Nice SSH seedlings going into the ground this evening.
umgawa
Attachments
canamasala
Member
I believe that most questions come from a situation where people are desperately trying to save a situation where their precious seed sprouts not properly.
Everything written here is true about the natural process, So the question is whether I can save seed that has a natural defect. (Or what really happened to him?)
According to my experience (is not particularly large) healthy seed will sprout in all methods.
Everything written here is true about the natural process, So the question is whether I can save seed that has a natural defect. (Or what really happened to him?)
According to my experience (is not particularly large) healthy seed will sprout in all methods.
canamasala
Member
And
And
For many years I dream of my own crop, What brought me to sprout many seeds.
fresh seeds Always sprouted ! Without soaking in water, with no special conditions. I threw them straight to the soil, they always sprouted.
And
For many years I dream of my own crop, What brought me to sprout many seeds.
fresh seeds Always sprouted ! Without soaking in water, with no special conditions. I threw them straight to the soil, they always sprouted.
If you provide all the right conditions...then it's all up to the seed...there's nothing more you can do.
I see more "shitty conditions" and trying to save a seedling...than perfect conditions and trying to save a seedling.
Geotropism heliotropism oh my! 
I did think it was pointy side up and was wondering why Mandala seeds (a reputable seed company) was saying pointy side down when planting (1/4"-1/2" or about 1 cm deep). I do think though pointy side or tap root tip up helps it shed the seed hull easier as it's pried free emerging from soil or grow medium especially when planted shallow.
But if planted almost an inch or 2 cm deep pointy side/tap root down the seed hull is left in soil as shown in 1st post. Also the stem seems to have more support from the soil when planted a little deeper and has less of a chance of being lanky and falling over. Of course adequate light will help prevent stretch. What's that saying, "Patience is a virtue."?!
So you can also just "roll the dice" and let 'em fall as long as they're deep enough.
I did think it was pointy side up and was wondering why Mandala seeds (a reputable seed company) was saying pointy side down when planting (1/4"-1/2" or about 1 cm deep). I do think though pointy side or tap root tip up helps it shed the seed hull easier as it's pried free emerging from soil or grow medium especially when planted shallow.
But if planted almost an inch or 2 cm deep pointy side/tap root down the seed hull is left in soil as shown in 1st post. Also the stem seems to have more support from the soil when planted a little deeper and has less of a chance of being lanky and falling over. Of course adequate light will help prevent stretch. What's that saying, "Patience is a virtue."?!
So you can also just "roll the dice" and let 'em fall as long as they're deep enough.
S
sweetestsin420
1
PeopleWish
Active member
A+, such a simple experiment to preform that resulted in clear objective data, wonder why no one has recorded it in this way before.
I think this bit of information should be stickied.
I think this bit of information should be stickied.
Thanks for the compliments, but of course you have to give credit to kov the OP.
There's other methods used for helping seed germination like scuffing or scarifying seeds w/sandpaper, soaking in water for 2-24 hours or putting seeds in moist paper towels - but that seems mostly beneficial w/older seeds. It can be done with newer seeds but involves extra steps and handling seeds which also can increase chances of something going wrong.
I just use tweezers and plop them in moistened Rapid Rooters 1/4-1/2” deep (top loosely plugged w/spare piece) and spritz each several times w/RO water maybe 8 hours apart. I still check 'em to make sure they're not too wet or dry. Also use a vented humidity dome w/heat mat and digital thermostat (probe inside a dummy Rapid Rooter) near a fan on low and monitor both air temp and humidity inside dome.
Also important is to keep humidity below 50% and temps 75-80F which can help prevent fungus like mycelia, fusarium and pythium which can cause troubles early on. Some even go 80-90F temp wise. T5 fluoros can also help drop humidity and add heat.
There's other methods used for helping seed germination like scuffing or scarifying seeds w/sandpaper, soaking in water for 2-24 hours or putting seeds in moist paper towels - but that seems mostly beneficial w/older seeds. It can be done with newer seeds but involves extra steps and handling seeds which also can increase chances of something going wrong.
I just use tweezers and plop them in moistened Rapid Rooters 1/4-1/2” deep (top loosely plugged w/spare piece) and spritz each several times w/RO water maybe 8 hours apart. I still check 'em to make sure they're not too wet or dry. Also use a vented humidity dome w/heat mat and digital thermostat (probe inside a dummy Rapid Rooter) near a fan on low and monitor both air temp and humidity inside dome.
Also important is to keep humidity below 50% and temps 75-80F which can help prevent fungus like mycelia, fusarium and pythium which can cause troubles early on. Some even go 80-90F temp wise. T5 fluoros can also help drop humidity and add heat.
KING_JOHN_C
Member
good thread
W
willyweed
i love finding old but excellent thread's ,just at the same time i am having problems with seedlings .thank you all for the sound advice, with experiments also included with conclusive evidence .i will sleep better tonight not keep looking for hooks to grow of of my seeds before i transplant.they were in the rockwool before i had even finished reading till the end.lol
cool simple but interesting experiment
afroman25
Member
I agree
StickyHands
Member
Excellent post. Learned lots from this post,many thanks.
Im going to use these techniques on some old seeds i have.
Thanks again!
Peace
Im going to use these techniques on some old seeds i have.
Thanks again!
Peace
Great thread! It has changed the way ill start seeds.
