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The Definitive Active Closed Loop Extraction Guide

Dirt Bag

Member
Hidey-ho Hempsters. It's time to consolidate. My hope is pool all of the information currently scattered throughout this forum into one, definitive guide. So without further adieu, my current equipment and process explained with questions in red.
The Equipment:
Best Value Vacs Bidirectional Closed Loop Extractor
CPS TRS21 Recovery Pump
CPS MT-69SS Molecular Transformator (coil)
CPS 3-Valve Manifold
BHOgart 12" desiccant dryer
6 Litre LP Tank with Siphon and Vapor Valves
Tee with access valve (for vacuum pump)
Digital Refrigerant Scale
Infrared/Laser Thermometer
Zeny Single Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump
Glass Vac 2 Gallon Vacuum Chamber
Whatman Qualitative Filters (8 micron)
Bottled Nitrogen & regulator

NOTE: I disassemble, clean, and reassemble the extractor after each run including new filters and store it under vacuum.

DISTILL SOLVENT: (to remove undesirable ingredients)
Assemble the system as follows (stainless steel hoses indicated as >):
Solvent Source Tank > Collection Chamber >Desiccant Dryer > Access Tee > Recovery Pump > Coil > Manifold > Recovery Tank (vapor port)
LEAVE SOURCE TANK VALVE CLOSED AT THIS TIME
Open recovery tank valve, manifold valve, and collection chamber valves.
Connect Nitrogen to Access Tee.
Pressurize to 90psi.
Close Access Valve.
Wait 30 minutes. If pressure remains at 90psi proceed. If pressure drops, check/tighten all connections and repeat until pressure holds (I like to use a spray bottle of soapy water to spot leaks)
Remove Nitrogen.
Connect Vacuum Pump to the Access Tee and open that valve.
Pull full vacuum on entire system including the recovery tank.
Place Solvent Source Tank onto the Refrigerant Scale and zero(tare) the scale.
Place coil and recovery tank into ice water.
Start Recovery pump.
Open Solvent Source Tank Valve and close it once the desired amount of solvent has left the Source Tank (a negative number on the scale read out).
Allow recovery pump to run until the collection chamber gauge reads - 10Hg (or more).
Turn off the pump and remove the coil from the ice water. The cold recovery tank will pull in the solvent remaining in the coil indicated by a negative reading on the manifold gauge.
Close Recovery Tank.
Disassemble and clean the M.O. (Mystery Oils) from the collection chamber (the reason you just distilled)

EXTRACTION:
To begin, I remove the top lid and filter plate, and then the material column and the lower filter plate left connected to one another.
I use a small, generic food processor to break down buds into no more than 1/2" chunks and pack the column, place screen/gasket on top, and then the top filter plate. I cap both ends with plastic caps and freeze for 24hrs.
Assemble the system as before without the source tank, BUT ALSO connect a hose to the Siphon port on the Recovery tank and the other end to the input valve of the extractor.
Pull full vacuum with the recovery tank valves closed. NOTE: this configuration requires an additional connection from the manifold to the collection chamber to pull vacuum on the front side of the pump. This connection can be removed once vacuum is achieved and the corresponding valves are closed.
Open Siphon Valve of the Recovery Tank.
Open input valve and allow solvent to fill column from the bottom up unit it reaches the overflow, then close the overflow valve, the input valve, and the siphon valve on the recovery tank.
Soak for your desired length of time.
Open Dump Valve.
Once solvent stops (or slows dramatically) start the Recovery Pump and open the vapor valve on the Recovery tank.
Repeat.
Repeat again, but through the top fill.
I found that I was able to maintain a circulation with both recovery tank valves open and the manifold gauge holding steady @ around 50psi and the collection base holding steady @ negative pressure.
Once top fill rinsing is running clear, close input valve and the siphon valve on the recovery tank.
Run recovery until the collection chamber gauge reads -10Hg (or more) and no solvent is visible in the manifold window.
Turn ofc the pump and remove coil from the ice water and continue to recover (this will recover the solvent that was trapped in the coil by the cold. Once the manifold reads negative (or zero) close the vapor valve, disassemble the collection chamber and pour/scrape extract onto oil slick paper.
Place this into the vacuum chamber and allow it to warm until it reaches 115°F.
Vacuum chamber to -28.5Hg. Stopping along the way to let in some atmosphere to collapse the muffin that will form.
Once no reaction is detected, flip and repeat.
If you want a buddah-type consistency, stir it aggressively between flips.

Alright. This is the most I've EVER typed in one stretch. Please add in your comments, fixes, etc. Let's get this thing tight!
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The Generic Terpenators Operating Manual,

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=297578&highlight=Operators+Manual


Bhogart and some of the other steel vendors have info,

https://bhogart.com/instructions-and-documentation/

https://bhogart.com/wp-content/uplo...-All-CES-Models-Ver-2.0-1-2017.compressed.pdf


Why are you limiting the depth of the vacuum purge to -28.5" Hg? I do a simple quick purge in a thin film at 115F down to -29.5" Hg just until the bubbling slows to a crawl.

Here's a link to a thread where I presented page after page of argument that long drawn out purges are unnecessary as the butane is neither identifiable or even detectable by the senses, nor is it toxic.

At what ppm can you taste butane?

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=348869
 
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Dirt Bag

Member
Thanks for the replies ya'll. Awesome stuff.
SkyHighLer, my original intention was to purge TFT with a full vacuum (sea level) @ 115°, flip, repeat, and was resulting in a very nice peanut brittle (opaque, camel colored breakable but not shatter into crumby shards) Then I discovered that my actual sample temperature was only 95° (I added a Bluetooth BBQ thermometer beneath the vacuum chamber) and promptly raised it to what finally settled at 118° (skillet heat control is extremely inaccurate). This resulted in a much more transparent but darker root beer colored product, shatter if cooled, pull n snap otherwise. I raised the temperature to 140° in an attempt to obtain a buttah or crumble consistency but was concerned with how full vacuum would affect the sample and so I only pulled to 28.5Hg to be on the safe side. This is still sticky wax, same color.
I believe I remember reading a Gray Wolf comment about how he obtains crumble.
Why? Because handling and portioning super sticky is ultra icky.
 
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