irrigation line configuration fed by electric pump?

F2F · Jun 16, 2020

Hi Folks,

Curious to know your thoughts here. After hauling water last week I thought more seriously about a set it and forget it config. Have read BackCountry’s posts and others on this but no one has my answers.

- NorthStar 60 PSI/5.5gpm diaphragm pump
- 1/2” poly
- creek to plants: ~ 2’ lift, 15’ head (uphill), 60’ run
- Marine deep cycle (matched to Ah needs)
- 12v programmable timer
- 11 plants

Two questions:
- Any reason I can’t pump directly to the plants? Seems most people here commented to pump to rez’s buried uphill of plants.

- How should I configure the business end at the plants? Spaghetti lines, Drip emitters, halos, etc?

Thanks in advance!
F2F

art.spliff · Jun 16, 2020

Teddybrae · Jun 16, 2020

When you write "Marine Deep Cycle" I 'm assuming this is a battery ... and I wonder how you will charge it?

I think your ability to charge the battery is a very important parameter in yr plan. How will you ensure recharge?

You should have enough pressure/volume to do without a reservoir. I would use 20mm (3/4 inch) hose for yr 60 meter run to reduce friction in the line.

You may have to organise a way to bleed off excess pressure to yr sprinklers if yr pump output exceeds sprinkler output.

Good luck!

Cmoon · Jun 17, 2020

F2F said:
Hi Folks,

Curious to know your thoughts here. After hauling water last week I thought more seriously about a set it and forget it config. Have read BackCountry’s posts and others on this but no one has my answers.

- NorthStar 60 PSI/5.5gpm diaphragm pump
- 1/2” poly
- creek to plants: ~ 2’ lift, 15’ head (uphill), 60’ run
- Marine deep cycle (matched to Ah needs)
- 12v programmable timer
- 11 plants

Two questions:
- Any reason I can’t pump directly to the plants? Seems most people here commented to pump to rez’s buried uphill of plants.

- How should I configure the business end at the plants? Spaghetti lines, Drip emitters, halos, etc?

Thanks in advance!
F2F

https://www.icmag.com/modules/Find_Threads/index.php?stext=blumats

id consider these

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

art.spliff said:
View Image

Thanks for the feedback here guys.

ArtSpiff - I have those same exact emitters. Was thinking I’d need pressure compensated emitters to get equal delivery from beginning to end of run. Maybe if I crank progressively more and more open from start to end they could even out. Your second pic is probably the best way - a manifold at the head with equidistant feeds.

Cheers
F2F

Zeez · Jun 17, 2020

Depending on your water source emitters, halos can clog easily. Why not just put plugs in your line ends and drill holes where you want water. If they get clogged - bigger holes.

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

Teddybrae said:
When you write "Marine Deep Cycle" I 'm assuming this is a battery ... and I wonder how you will charge it?

I think your ability to charge the battery is a very important parameter in yr plan. How will you ensure recharge?

You should have enough pressure/volume to do without a reservoir. I would use 20mm (3/4 inch) hose for yr 60 meter run to reduce friction in the line.

You may have to organise a way to bleed off excess pressure to yr sprinklers if yr pump output exceeds sprinkler output.

Good luck!

Yep, deep cycle battery. I’ll only need enough charge to last a couple months. By my calculations I’ve got a battery with enough Ah (amp hours) to run every 3 days for 30-1hr, and make it through the dry season. Though, this is my weakest link. Calculations are not life. (Friction loss, slow drain, etxc)

Yep, friction needs to be planned for! Maybe ur right - 3/4”.

Regarding bleeding pressure - this pump is constant duty with bypass, which means the motor goes on standby when too much pressure is generated. But, pressure = slower irrigation which = longer run time = less battery life.

Thanks!
F2F

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

Zeez said:
Depending on your water source emitters, halos can clog easily. Why not just put plugs in your line ends and drill holes where you want water. If they get clogged - bigger holes.

Yeah, think this is correct as well. Wanting to go big to decrease run time but Stupid me hadn’t thought about clogs!

Cmoon- I have those and need to think on that more. Need to go Rez in this case.

Best
F2F

Zeez · Jun 17, 2020

There are 12v and 24v pumps made for marine applications that are called 'on demand'. They only turn on when the pressure drops. Maybe this is an option with an irrigation valve. I use this setup to add nutes from a res.

art.spliff · Jun 17, 2020

with one poly ring per plant and smaller extensions the emitters can start out with a close diameter and more added later. shut off valves or timing each elevation as a separate zone can help pressure compensation or even distribution. if you use a water filter then pc emitters are ok if they clog easily skip emitters. there are advantages to having a separate reservoir have your pump feed a water tower so to speak. a tee valve inline with outlet riser or in other words a tee with the horizontal part having a shutoff valve on it, first before the outlet pipe goes uphill to the plants, this works as a pressure regulator.

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

Anyone have real life experience with this? I’m really curious about battery life calculations on paper versus in the bush.

If I have a 50 amp hour battery, and I pump for an hour every third day, in theory I could pump for 5mo (minus draw for the timer). But, I’m sure there is battery drain over time, and other inefficiencies, plus I don’t know how well the pump will run when battery gets on the low side.

art.spliff · Jun 17, 2020

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

art.spliff said:
View Image

Yeah man, so tempting, but I’m a little too “on the grid” to comfortably go that route. Though, I could probably pull it off. My plot is buried inside a bush honeysuckle forest, under power lines, which are under a flight path for the airport lol. Not much chance of choppers but I don’t really want to tempt fate.

I’ve been running some calculations on the battery and amp hours required...

Teddybrae · Jun 17, 2020

Maybe look into Battery Capacity a bit more. I have pumps like the one you mention and I am on Stand Alone Solar. A battery should not be discharged beyond 75% capacity.

So this means the formula: Battery Capacity divided by Pump Amps equals ? number waterings is not useful.

Perhaps tho' there is enough profit in yr venture to allow you to replace the battery if necessary.

Cheers!

F2F said:
Yep, deep cycle battery. I’ll only need enough charge to last a couple months. By my calculations I’ve got a battery with enough Ah (amp hours) to run every 3 days for 30-1hr, and make it through the dry season. Though, this is my weakest link. Calculations are not life. (Friction loss, slow drain, etxc)

Yep, friction needs to be planned for! Maybe ur right - 3/4”.

Regarding bleeding pressure - this pump is constant duty with bypass, which means the motor goes on standby when too much pressure is generated. But, pressure = slower irrigation which = longer run time = less battery life.

Thanks!
F2F

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

Teddybrae said:
Maybe look into Battery Capacity a bit more...

...A battery should not be discharged beyond 75% capacity.

THIS! Thanks TB - not worried about ruining the battery honestly (tisk, tisk). How much can I run a deep cycle down and still have viable power? For convenience let’s say a 100Ah battery...

Thanks sir!
F2F

F2F · Jun 17, 2020

TB, here’s what I was trying to get at:

I underestimated gpm (gallon per minute) and overestimated amp draw - pump is actually rated at 5.5gpm, and Max draw 17A, but during a cycle it should draw less than that on avg (??).

Cheers guys!
F2F

Teddybrae · Jun 18, 2020

The rule is that a battery begins to undergo irreversible chemical change if it is discharged below 75%. In the case of a 12 V battery that is 11.8 volts.

You'll have to install a panel I think.

art.spliff · Jun 23, 2020

Any trickle charger should be ok the battery is where the current comes from the charger can work while the pump is off. I would not spend extra money on a battery use what is available good quality. Three batteries in parallel will probably work better than one more expensive one. Isolate the battery up off of the ground with wood make a box for it or insulation foam something. The solar charger above is small and not so expensive. It is not a good idea to run the battery down and then charge it when you have electrical power available. The battery and trickle charger work very similar if not the same as a power supply or voltage transformer.

art.spliff · Jul 4, 2020

Fixer · Jul 4, 2020

I'm not sure how pumping up hill will effect your volume at different locations but make sure all of you irrigation lines are the same length or you valve the lines to each plant so you can control the volume.

irrigation line configuration fed by electric pump?

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