Suggestions for a big yeld set-up

AlaskanDream · Dec 4, 2015

Hi to you all,
after many reads i've decided to start an indoor project but i still have many doubts about the set-up for a great beginning.

Considering that i can't exceed the 3000 Watt power forniture, which configuration do you suggest me?

-Grow Box (brand and size) silverbox 3x3x2 meters is too big?

-Illumination, i was thinking to MARS II Leds 6x480W (but i have a little problem, because the place is in the mountains and the temperature can be a issue to face whit) So may i have to swap choice for AGRO lights? Can you point me at best lamps and brands included ballasts and necessary tools to make them work properly.

-Strain (i've looked at Skunk XL, feminized strain, is this good enough for indoor or you suggest something different for amazing yeld?)

-Number of plants (my idea was 30 plants tot, 4 plants/m2) is this wrong?

-Air configuration (air extraction, which type of? is air immission needed? if yes which kind? Elicoidal?)

-Air ventilator/s how many? Which power?

-Best growing technique, SCROG, SOG, LST? Give me your best opinion please

-Best feeding way, aeroponic, DWC,RDWC, EBB&FLOW ecc ecc, i was aiming at the RDWC home built whit a venturi pump in the main tank and one stone for each pot.

-Volume of the pots, are 20 liters pots enough? Are air pots better than others?

-Umidifier?

-Ozonizer?

-Elcronic controllers, is a must have the possibility to control the grow box in auto mode. I can't be present whit much frequence, so i need a good way to control and modify to needed settings the EC and PH of the water and the temperature levels (also the air change). Is co2 essential for a good yeld or i can avoid it?
Is also needed to water the leafs of the plants or RDWC is enough?

-Do i need an osmotic system? Many people says that isn't a must have

-Is important to keep the water cold? If yes which method is suggested?

-Last question, which kind of fertilizer is best for the set-up you suggest me?

A big thanks to everyone, i hope this can intrest many people and also help others beginners to clarify his ideas.

:tiphat:

Purple Jungle · Dec 4, 2015

First make sure to really go deep looking into strains, the more you read the more you'll be seeing people saying "genetics is everything". The breeder is key.

I would also start in soil. Hydro / aero could be screwed up quite easily by a novice. From one newbie to another

AlaskanDream · Dec 4, 2015

Purple Jungle said:
First make sure to really go deep looking into strains, the more you read the more you'll be seeing people saying "genetics is everything". The breeder is key.

I would also start in soil. Hydro / aero could be screwed up quite easily by a novice. From one newbie to another

Thanks for your reply man,

about genetics, it's prooved that some strains can yield more than others no? And feminized seeds are best for a newbie, less fears.

I've heard that RDWC if done properly is one of the best systems and pretty failproof. I can afford a gret system , whit ec and ph controllers all automatic, if i have to do something i want to do it in the right way.

Mikell · Dec 4, 2015

Spend as much time reading the stickied threads as you can. Most if not all of your questions have answers there.

You'll probably get more advice if you do your own legwork rather than waiting for someone to walk you through the entire process.

Ichabod Crane · Dec 4, 2015

Not only the stickies do this.

For the new people what I am talking about is the rating button at the top of the sub forums. Click on that and the highest rated threads come to the top. You can do the same with the replies and post. It is a good way to find the best threads as rated by the views like me and you.

If you find a thread that you like or learned a lot from you should rate it. That way others can be made aware of it as well. I often see people tell the new posters to read before asking questions but they have so much to read they get lost. This is how you help them find the correct stuff to read.

To rate a thread just open it up and at the top of the posts it says "rate thread". Just click what you feel it should be rated.*

While there at the top look to the left of the rate button is another important button. It is the "thread tools" button. Here is where you can subscribe to a thread. Click the thread tools button ans a drop down menu shows up. On this menu click on the "subscribe to this thread button". In a couple seconds a new page will show up. It will have another button that says "add subscription". Click that and you will now be subscribed.

To access your subscribed threads go to the top of the page. Off to the right you will see "my ic". Click that and your subscribed threads will show up. The threads with new posts will be black. You can click it to go to the thread directly.

LostTribe · Dec 6, 2015

there are some great videos on the youtubes too. check out remo the UG! Although the nutes he advertises are junk the rest of the show is good!

stoned-trout · Dec 6, 2015

theres more than one way to skin a cat....yeehaw

AlaskanDream · Dec 7, 2015

Yamabushi said:
For 3000 watts, this amount of space is alright. For 3000 watts you'll probably need 15' x 5' for flowering, 4'x'4 for a giant mother and 3'x3' maybe for cloning, and planned and executed right you can do your clone shelf above your mother/veg chamber.

I just did a S#!T tonne of research into LEDs, and would reccomend for 3000 watts, inclusive: 3x BlackStar Chrome 720w or 3x Truth M-16, a veg light like 240HO V2.0 Blackstar LED Veg/Clone Light for some mothers, and another one or 2 for your cloning chamber. This plus some ventilation will get you pretty close to the 3000 watt mark.

Strain is something that you will want to choose carefully, and is very subjective when it comes to opinion. Depending on which method you choose to grow with, ie: SoG, SCRoG, etc, and your own personal preference for taste etc.. I recommend checking out Leafly for help with this.

You could do this, no problem. Nothing wrong, personal preference. I really like SoG personally.

The three major things you need to consider for air are:
a) Odor pollution
b) CO2 concentration
c) Air circulation

I have faith you can figure this one out on your own.

For me it's strain dependent which method I use. Choose a system and then a strain, or a strain and then a system.

See previous answer

Depends on your RH. I don't use one at all, but sometimes a dehumidifier.

I never saw a need. I use home made air scrubbers like the carbon filters you see, except in mine I use clinoptilolite.

I'm currently working on this challenge myself, but K.I.S.S instead of electronic and mechanical parts as much as possible.

I'm putting together a passive wick hydro system using 1 gallon fabric pots in a SoG above a 6 inch flood tray which will be used as a reservoir. To keep the res topped up, I plan to automate using a float valve, similar to whats in your toilet tank, connected to a much larger secondary reservoir with premixed and circulated nutrient solution.

After all the other things you want to include, and the investment you want to make, you want to skimp out on CO2!?

Some plants love foliar feeding, although the only time I do so is during cloning

K.I.S.S. if you can't be around a lot.

Water temp: 20-22 degrees celcius (68-71 for you yanks)

Full synthetic, because organics in my system would ruin everything.

You're welcome.

Remember, my recommendations are just based on my own research and experimentation and experience.

If you are thinking of 4 plants per meter you might think about Hempy buckets.

Great reply man! Really thanks!
Now i will try to explain more detailed my needs.

At the end, i'm kindly force to choose AGRO lights instead of LEDS for two main reasons:
-The place is really cold and AGRO may help whit temperatures (in particular if i run them at night)
-From my researches LEDs can be good, but if you want to make the investment worth you must pay a lot and get the top quality leds or they can't yeld like AGRO.

Keeping talking about temprature, i must buy a little electric fan, like the ones you can use to warm up the bathroom, the most of them already have a thermic sensor on.
They drain tons of light but based on maths, it's enough to allow them to work for really short period to bring again the °C onto needed values and than it will shut down automatically.
(sorry bad english)

For the air i will use two fans to keep the air mxed and one extractor compatible whit long tubes (insonorized).
I will also add another air source to force new air into the grow box.
If i add co2 also, how can i bring levels under control?
The real question is, if you put co2 in the grow room and the temprature still be ok, do you really need to change all the air inside of the growbox?

For the feeding system i'm pretty sure about RDWC, this choice mostly for the most friendly way to keep water controlled even if i'm away for days.
I was thinking about this system: http://www.hydroponics.eu/phecumidi...egulator-dispenser-conductivity-Ph-22034.html
pretty expensive but once setted up it will do his job! (i can have it for 1100€ circa)
Just for info, if you are intrested it's also available an advanced version whit a remote feature... so expensive! http://www.ebay.it/itm/HYDROPONIC-S...729100?hash=item2ca53bed8c:g:~fIAAOSw7FRWXgAA
But this last one is not the one for me! I can't efford it!

RDWC i planned to do is based on 30liters pots whit inside the pot whit the plant (size will be choosed based on the strain and growing method)
I'm considring the osmosis, if needed or not, and maybe an air cooler but i think i can avoid it. If i allocate my main tank out of the box i will surely have low temperature.
(Outside of the house -0° in the night are common)

So going back to the point, a 3x3 meters grow box maybe is too big because i don't have enough energy to illuminate properly and make all the electric devices to work.
I think i will go for a 2x2x2 meters and i must choose between:
4x400 Watts AGRO or 4x600 Watts Agro...maybe too much?

The strain still be a mystery for me, what is important is the yeld.
I don't smoke and all i grow will be all i sell

Thanks again, i keep you updated, hope my researches can be helpful for everyone.

AlaskanDream · Dec 7, 2015

AlaskanDream said:
Great reply man! Really thanks!
Now i will try to explain more detailed my needs.

At the end, i'm kindly force to choose AGRO lights instead of LEDS for two main reasons:
-The place is really cold and AGRO may help whit temperatures (in particular if i run them at night)
-From my researches LEDs can be good, but if you want to make the investment worth you must pay a lot and get the top quality leds or they can't yeld like AGRO.

Keeping talking about temprature, i must buy a little electric fan, like the ones you can use to warm up the bathroom, the most of them already have a thermic sensor on.
They drain tons of light but based on maths, it's enough to allow them to work for really short period to bring again the °C onto needed values and than it will shut down automatically.
(sorry bad english)

For the air i will use two fans to keep the air mxed and one extractor compatible whit long tubes (insonorized).
I will also add another air source to force new air into the grow box.
If i add co2 also, how can i bring levels under control?
The real question is, if you put co2 in the grow room and the temprature still be ok, do you really need to change all the air inside of the growbox?

For the feeding system i'm pretty sure about RDWC, this choice mostly for the most friendly way to keep water controlled even if i'm away for days.
I was thinking about this system: http://www.hydroponics.eu/phecumidi...egulator-dispenser-conductivity-Ph-22034.html
pretty expensive but once setted up it will do his job! (i can have it for 1100€ circa)
Just for info, if you are intrested it's also available an advanced version whit a remote feature... so expensive! http://www.ebay.it/itm/HYDROPONIC-S...729100?hash=item2ca53bed8c:g:~fIAAOSw7FRWXgAA
But this last one is not the one for me! I can't efford it!

RDWC i planned to do is based on 30liters pots whit inside the pot whit the plant (size will be choosed based on the strain and growing method)
I'm considring the osmosis, if needed or not, and maybe a *WATER cooler but i think i can avoid it. If i allocate my main tank out of the box i will surely have low *WATER temperature.
(Outside of the house -0° in the night are common)

So going back to the point, a 3x3 meters grow box maybe is too big because i don't have enough energy to illuminate properly and make all the electric devices to work.
I think i will go for a 2x2x2 meters and i must choose between:
4x400 Watts AGRO or 4x600 Watts Agro...maybe too much?

The strain still be a mystery for me, what is important is the yeld.
I don't smoke and all i grow will be all i sell

Thanks again, i keep you updated, hope my researches can be helpful for everyone.
View Image

*(Just to be clear, the precisation is because i was talking about water, and not about air.)

DONAJTHEIII · Dec 7, 2015

Experience and developing skills over the course of time will give you everything your looking for. there is no magic set up just keep working and learning about this plant we all love and itll treat you right. Your a newcomer i recc. you get a couple runs in a 4X4 tent first....your going way above your head with multiple lights. we all started somewhere at least the vets here

Baby steps

AlaskanDream · Dec 27, 2015

Hi again guys,

i'm back to update you all whit my Alien plans.
Many circumstances helped this project in the best way (now i have the possibility to move the grow site closer to my house; at the start the available place was too far, like 3 hours of travel)

Now we have a lot of space so we go for a 3x3x2 meters grow box. (not used all the space to grow)
As suggested by many users (and for electric treshold) we choosed led panels option; in particular 4 x mars hydro pro cree 256.
Link to look features: https://www.mars-hydro.com/Cree-Lighting-256-LED-Hydroponic-Grow-Lights.aspx

Now i still have few questions, as i need a good automation for the grow box i'm looking for an all-in-one controller that can be used also in EU.
I was aiming at the iponic, seems good but i can't understand if i can use it in 220v whitout problems (whit an inverter).
If you have better suggestions i'm listening whit full attention!

To optimize all the parameters i need:

-underpressure for vents whit hysteresis and possibility to set max and min velocity to avoid noise when vents must start to decrease temperature

-heting connection whit hysteresis to avoid power waste when the stove starts to bring temperature up

-co2 controller + release valve

-timer for light is not a priority since mars pro panels already have it on

-Igrosthat to manage humidity (i'm asking myself if it's better to use an humdifier/dehumidifier instead of handling high humidity whit vents; i try to get the point: if humidity is too much i think is better to correct it whit a dehumidifier because if i blow all the grow air out i mess up all the others parameters (like co2 and temperature)
Am i right?

-It's also necessary a PH and EC controller whit peristaltic pumps to auto manage water.
I have not seen yet this feature included in normal controllers, but is not a problem, i can buy this as a stand alone controller. I was loking at Hanna or Prosystem Aqua.

This project have a total of 16 plants (each one benefits of 0.5 meters to grow in)
Which growing method do you find more adecuate? (pots are 30 liters)

I leave you a draw of my project to let you be part of it

Many thanks for the help!

mrS0ul · Dec 27, 2015

Start in soil. Bag Seed for the trial run. Nirvana Master Kush for the maiden voyage. Keep the variables down to the lowest possible.
KISS.

2 cents.
:tiphat:

Eudaemon · Dec 29, 2015

AlaskanDream said:
Hi to you all,
after many reads i've decided to start an indoor project but i still have many doubts about the set-up for a great beginning.

Considering that i can't exceed the 3000 Watt power forniture, which configuration do you suggest me?

-Grow Box (brand and size) silverbox 3x3x2 meters is too big?
-Illumination, i was thinking to MARS II Leds 6x480W (but i have a little problem, because the place is in the mountains and the temperature can be a issue to face whit) So may i have to swap choice for AGRO lights? Can you point me at best lamps and brands included ballasts and necessary tools to make them work properly.

3,000 watts is a good amount of power and can easily be scaled to fit a room of that size. In a room that size and larger, you have a lot of opportunity to very efficiently utilize lighting. Get smaller fixtures that can be moved, make lighting modular where possible. This will give you extreme flexibility to increase yields and fix lighting deficiencies within the room. When designing a room, light the entire room, not the just the plants.

AlaskanDream said:
-Strain (i've looked at Skunk XL, feminized strain, is this good enough for indoor or you suggest something different for amazing yeld?)

I would do some more research on strains. For a Sativa dominant plant, I don’t think Skunk XL has that much stretch, but I still would run something else. I did a huge seed order with Barney’s Farm, GHS, etc, and when I continued my research, I decided it wasn’t worth moving forward with all the time, energy and money with poor genetics. Genetics has become my only real interest now in the cannabis field. It is the most important part of the equation, imho.

AlaskanDream said:
-Number of plants (my idea was 30 plants tot, 4 plants/m2) is this wrong?

That’s a great number for your size and space. You can go more, depending on your setup, but I probably wouldn’t really go less, at all, especially with a shorter ceiling. I would run lots of plants and keep them short.

AlaskanDream said:
-Air configuration (air extraction, which type of? is air immission needed? if yes which kind? Elicoidal?)
-Air ventilator/s how many? Which power?

This is dependent on climate, heat emission from lights (don’t have experience with LEDs), HVAC system in the house, etc. I will say, go big. Always overbuild and overplan your cooling and ventilation. Cooling and ventilation will always be a problem as you grow, always. Something will always come up and disrupt your perfect climate, so always have a PACE (Primary, alternate, contingency, and emergency) plan when it comes to controlling temperature, during sharp changes and equipment issues.

What are your normal indoor daytime and nighttime temperatures?

AlaskanDream said:
-Best growing technique, SCROG, SOG, LST? Give me your best opinion please

In a room of your size and configuration, I believe the most efficient utilization of space would be a large SOG with many, many plants. I think that would be, in my opinion, the least fun grow on earth. Managing and preparing that many cuttings or seedlings and keeping them alive would not be terribly enjoyable for me. I greatly prefer a SCROG. It gives you a tremendous amount of control over your canopy; ergo, you have tremendous control over how your plants receive light. Also, I enjoy handling and training the plants. It is very therapeutic.

AlaskanDream said:
-Best feeding way, aeroponic, DWC,RDWC, EBB&FLOW ecc ecc, i was aiming at the RDWC home built whit a venturi pump in the main tank and one stone for each pot.

I like Ebb and Flow, RDWC and Aeroponics. That is in sequential order of most simple to most comlex, imho. Ebb and Flow could be problematic because you end up losing height because gravity requires the tray be above the reservoir. That can be overcome, but gravity is cheaper and breaks less often. RDWC would be really cool.

AlaskanDream said:
-Volume of the pots, are 20 liters pots enough? Are air pots better than others?

Yes, 5 gallons should be plenty. It’s going to get tight with 30 plants in 5 gallon pots in that room, I think. I am bad spatially, though.

AlaskanDream said:
-Elcronic controllers, is a must have the possibility to control the grow box in auto mode. I can't be present whit much frequence, so i need a good way to control and modify to needed settings the EC and PH of the water and the temperature levels (also the air change). Is co2 essential for a good yeld or i can avoid it?

CO2 is not essential for good yield, but you will need massive air exchange, instead, then. Thirty plants in a closed space like that are going to consume C02 at an amazing rate, and they will consume all the CO2 and all the air in the vicinity of the plants will be hugely oxygen rich, so the air needs to be constantly exchanged within the room as well as from inside/out. Given the prefabricated nature of your grow box and the relative ease of making it sealed, I would recommend making a sealed box with CO2 supplementation.

AlaskanDream said:
Is also needed to water the leafs of the plants or RDWC is enough?

Foliar feeding is not required. RDWC would be enough.

AlaskanDream said:
-Do i need an osmotic system? Many people says that isn't a must have

No, it isn’t required at all, but it would be nice to have. I don’t have one, but I would love one. It is not terribly high on the list of things I “need” to buy. There are a lot of lights and cooling products on the list before that.

AlaskanDream said:
-Is important to keep the water cold? If yes which method is suggested?

It is only important to chill the water if your reservoir water is getting too warm. I don’t chill my water, and it stays in the 60s. Water is an incredible insulator and is very resistant to temperature changes. I would wait and see how your water did, temperature wise, before investing in a system to cool water. Don’t forget, though, because water is a great insulator, it can really help stabilize temperatures in a grow room.

AlaskanDream said:
-Last question, which kind of fertilizer is best for the set-up you suggest me?

I use the General Hydro Flora series. It is really easy and not too expensive.

species · Feb 8, 2016

Ichabod Crane said:
Not only the stickies do this.

For the new people what I am talking about is the rating button at the top of the sub forums. Click on that and the highest rated threads come to the top. You can do the same with the replies and post. It is a good way to find the best threads as rated by the views like me and you.

If you find a thread that you like or learned a lot from you should rate it. That way others can be made aware of it as well. I often see people tell the new posters to read before asking questions but they have so much to read they get lost. This is how you help them find the correct stuff to read.

To rate a thread just open it up and at the top of the posts it says "rate thread". Just click what you feel it should be rated.*

While there at the top look to the left of the rate button is another important button. It is the "thread tools" button. Here is where you can subscribe to a thread. Click the thread tools button ans a drop down menu shows up. On this menu click on the "subscribe to this thread button". In a couple seconds a new page will show up. It will have another button that says "add subscription". Click that and you will now be subscribed.

To access your subscribed threads go to the top of the page. Off to the right you will see "my ic". Click that and your subscribed threads will show up. The threads with new posts will be black. You can click it to go to the thread directly.

Thank for this, was having a hell of a time keeping track

Boyd Crowder · Feb 10, 2016

I started in dwc and switched to organic soil after two runs, I also started with the mars2's and moved to hps after the first run.

The r/dwc is 3 times the work of soil.

The mars or any leds Ive learned, are not going to yield like the hps and will cost you triple. even if you build it yourself.

You can get 3 1k hps rigs for the price of one mars2 1600,of which you will need 3-4 of to fill that space. And they dont run any cooler than the hps' in a vented hood. thats a fact. 400 watts is 400 watts.

My soil is water only when they need it, 2-3 days or so. My lights have penetration to the dirt.

Im saying this not to sway your choices, but to help you understand you can spend 100$ and have a soil that will last a lifetime along with lighting thats been proven by 40 years of indoor growers, or you can spend 300$ and fuss with meters, leaks, bottles and failing gear that can and will wipe out your 5 month journey in a few hours while you are at the gym - they will both get you the same results. Sorta

anyways, dont mean to come across like an asshole, Just my .02$

HidingInTheHaze · Feb 10, 2016

Boyd Crowder said:
I started in dwc and switched to organic soil after two runs, I also started with the mars2's and moved to hps after the first run.

The r/dwc is 3 times the work of soil.

The mars or any leds Ive learned, are not going to yield like the hps and will cost you triple. even if you build it yourself.

You can get 3 1k hps rigs for the price of one mars2 1600,of which you will need 3-4 of to fill that space. And they dont run any cooler than the hps' in a vented hood. thats a fact. 400 watts is 400 watts.

My soil is water only when they need it, 2-3 days or so. My lights have penetration to the dirt.

Im saying this not to sway your choices, but to help you understand you can spend 100$ and have a soil that will last a lifetime along with lighting thats been proven by 40 years of indoor growers, or you can spend 300$ and fuss with meters, leaks, bottles and failing gear that can and will wipe out your 5 month journey in a few hours while you are at the gym - they will both get you the same results. Sorta

anyways, dont mean to come across like an asshole, Just my .02$

A mastery of organics and soil does not come over night, from what I've seen you still have volumes to learn.

Once you add in all of the time practicing, experimenting and educating yourself you will realize organics isn't the fast or easy route.

In the few grows you have done I can say by your results you have barely scratched the surface. I say this with almost 10 years of non stop work and education on organic cannabis cultivation.

There is more than one way to skin a cat and as the most staunch organic fanatic I can say there is some bottle growers that really knock it out of the park.

Boyd Crowder · Feb 10, 2016

HidingInTheHaze said:
A mastery of organics and soil does not come over night, from what I've seen you still have volumes to learn.

Once you add in all of the time practicing, experimenting and educating yourself you will realize organics isn't the fast or easy route.

In the few grows you have done I can say by your results you have barely scratched the surface. I say this with almost 10 years of non stop work and education on organic cannabis cultivation.

There is more than one way to skin a cat and as the most staunch organic fanatic I can say there is some bottle growers that really knock it out of the park.

How, exactly, is this remotely useful to the op, Haze? Did you tell him your experiences with leds or tents or rdwc or even how to get a handle on this adventure? Nah, fuck that guy, youve got something to say to me tho.

this aint a post about me or my skillz so much as my observations on the costs of time and money involved in going down the path the op wants to explore. Hydro does cost more and takes a lot of time to do right (or wrong for that matter) and leds do cost more for less performance. Those were my points and I believe I said so clearly.

Organics is not as fast as hydro,in which you can (sometimes) shave 1-3 weeks off production time and have a great product with a huge yield, I know this cause I actually yielded better in dwc than my soil, but checking my ph 1-2 times a day, mixing up a solution every week and building a rig thats foolproof and doesnt leak takes 3 times as much effort,money and time. Thats a fact. I got the receipts of all that shit collecting dust in my attic to prove it.
In organics/soil, you dont need backups of everything on hand for potential failures. Ive experienced that and Im relating that to the new guy.

There is no safety net in hydro. Leds arent yet up to par in $/lumens yet. You will yield bigger with HPS for a third of the price.

If the op wants to buy and drive a ferrarri , please op, do yourself a favor and go get that ferrarri. Do invest in the gear and lights and drive the wheels off that motherfucker.

Hey OP, Im gonna borrow your thread for just one second, then you can have it back....

Haze, If you want to explore the topic of your experience and results vs mine, why not start a new topic about it rather than trying to fish in that same mudhole that aint bitin'? You seem to enjoy drowning worms,smh?

Ok , just a nibble around the hook... I get it, you are in pain and you hurt inside and want others to hurt with you and what makes you feel better than trolling for fish? Why that would be extolling the virtues you possess as a grizzled 10yr vet and comparing yourself to anyone within earshot, wether they asked your opinion or not?

Theres more productive ways to make him feel better about himself but it obviuosly aint growing and or smoking pot. Maybe him could offer some usefull advice to new growers instead of jacking threads ranting about how good him are?

If him aint a part of the solution, then why are him even here?

HidingInTheHaze · Feb 10, 2016

All I was getting at is your experience in any medium is extremely limited, for you to say any one way is better or easier than the other should be taken with a grain of salt because you haven't done any one thing long enough to form an opinion.

I was just countering your opinion, you are the one ranting and raving.

Boyd Crowder · Feb 10, 2016

THIS guy :laughing:

is TOO much lol

51%2BU2wGDgGL._SY344_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

You Just Need To....

Sorry bout this beef spilling out into your thread, Alaskan. HMU if you have any questions about your build or lighting.

May I suggest you look for petflora, doubletripleog ,dion and realstyles for led info , and search for snypes rdwc tutorials for the detailed builds and the basics on 02, water circulation, bulkheads and pump specs.

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