Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

Andyo · Feb 22, 2020

buying online quality name sils

buying online quality name sils

imakandi said:
hellu
screwn led friends

i'm appreciate all thread
before i read this
i think 'what lyght for small box', mayb $250
small box lyght more expensive in store
little available, size alway problem
never my size

i make my lamp with instruction here
go to store, near house
total money mayb $55 (bulb, wood, hook, wire,etc)
and 4 hour work

it work

11 day pass
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=82279&pictureid=2009378&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=82279&pictureid=2012037&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

lamp is just wood chonk
lmoa
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=82279&pictureid=2008576&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

mayb some thing for note
january i buy led bulb in aliexpress
arrive this week, i try
is 18w...
compare to philips 12w... is nothing, no brand bulb is bad bad
good quality led is what want
philips brand is good

is little experiance, but show it work,
only veg in small box, but have automatyc plant too,
if flower i just happy happy

again thank to thread to all
have help me real life
save money
plant happy
what better thank
[/QUOTE

I found sylvania 12.5 W sils online 1w chips
$3 each free shipping https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=80912&pictureid=2002757

PCBuds · Feb 22, 2020

I got 50 one Watt chips for $9.50.

I converted my flashlight to LED with 6 of them running off 20VDC.
No driver.
Straight DC.

catman · Feb 22, 2020

blynx - Year after year, you just keep on inspiring everyone. Thanks.

Sunshineinabag · Feb 22, 2020

PCBuds said:
I got 50 one Watt chips for $9.50.

[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/fknv6CL9/20191109_112232.jpg]View Image[/url]

I converted my flashlight to LED with 6 of them running off 20VDC.
No driver.
Straight DC.

[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/jSRKwtxq/15823604953951071050397.jpg]View Image[/url]

your mind never stops working..........thats a good thing.
I prefer feit leds ......they aint broke so i see no reason to fix them sorta speak.

Hookahhead · Feb 24, 2020

We recently built a new 10x20 greenhouse on the property.

I live near the equator, so daylight is close to 12 hours year round. We moved some of the SILs we were using inside, out into the smaller greenhouse. Now we can use it for veg but only have them on 2 hours before dawn and 2 hours after dusk.

So many uses for these little bulbs!

PCBuds · Feb 24, 2020

That's kool !!

Now you can get solar panels to charge batteries during the day, and run your SILs for 4 hours every night...

Then you can go off grid !!

f-e · Feb 24, 2020

Hookahhead said:
We recently built a new 10x20 greenhouse on the property.

View Image View Image

I live near the equator, so daylight is close to 12 hours year round. We moved some of the SILs we were using inside, out into the smaller greenhouse. Now we can use it for veg but only have them on 2 hours before dawn and 2 hours after dusk.

View Image

So many uses for these little bulbs!

You know about 'Night Break' lighting. The practice of waking them in the night, so they never get a continuous sleep long enough to flower? That might save enough electric to make solar operation viable. As it wouldn't take many of these to simply wake them up.

Hookahhead · Feb 24, 2020

I hadn’t given it much thought, but solar is totally doable now. We’re only running 8 x 14w lights (112w). Growth under the light isn’t a concern, only stopping the flowering hormone. Originally I had proposed “gas lighting” or “night breaking”, but the property owner didn’t like the idea of the lights coming on around 12-1 am. We’re in a remote location, but not totally uninhabited. So I opted for extending the daylight. Maybe once the perimeter vegetation around the property grows in a little more I can bring up the idea of switching to solar. In this process we replaced the 280w 3x3 area (18/6) with a 112w over 10x10 for 4 hours. Significant reduction already. The power company runs on 100% renewables too.

Hookahhead · Feb 28, 2020

Cheap clone light

Cheap clone light

Hey all it’s me again. I had been using a 4 bulb strip over my clones. But I’m only using 2 of the sockets with 8.5w bulbs that have globes on. This is on a plastic garage shelf, so there’s not much overhead room. I had been setting the clones kind of coliseum style around the bulbs.

Although I like the versatility the screw in part gives me (easily change or remove bulbs), I decided I wanted a little more space over head. Here’s my $0 clone grow light build.

Start with a piece of scrap metal. I’m pretty sure it’s aluminum and they use it as wall studs here. It is 32.5 inches, perfect for my 3 ft shelf.

I posted about these bulbs a while back. They weren’t strong enough for household use, so my friend gave me them to play with. They’re 7w, 2700k. Hopefully you can understand the disassembly from this photo.

I had 3 bulbs, so I did some quick math 32.5 divided by 4 = 8.125 So I made marks at 8 1/8, 16 1/4, and 24 3/8ths. In hindsight I should have done 36 divided by 4 = 9 for the full shelf. I placed a piece of 2x4 under the metal before drilling my holes to make a cleaner hole.

In order to have the drivers on the back side, I needed to either cut the wires to the LEDs or desolder the wires from the board. I chose to desolder them since I would have soldered the wires after joining them anyways. Make sure to pay attention to polarity! Finally I used some high temp silicon glue to attach the board to the metal. I’m just looking to build something quick and cheap, so efficiency isn’t my goal here. I figure I can easily pop the board off if I ever want to reuse the parts.

Hookahhead · Feb 28, 2020

I hadn’t really thought out the placement of the LED boards. Since the wires weren’t on center, neither were the boards. This is the layout I went with.

Once the glue setup, I flipped it over and glued the drivers on in same manner. I had to use tape because of the stiffness in the wire.

To be continued... I will update this post when I finish the wiring tomorrow.

PCBuds · Feb 28, 2020

I can't see what's on the other side of the circuit boards but if there is any copper, metal or wires, make sure none of it touches the metal heat sink or you might short something out or electrify the heat sink.

Frosty Nuggets · Feb 28, 2020

That's not an aluminium heatsink, it is galvanized steel.

PCBuds · Feb 28, 2020

Frosty Nuggets said:
That's not an aluminium heatsink, it is galvanized steel.

^^^ What he said. A magnet will stick to that but not aluminum (or stainless steel)

Hookahhead · Feb 28, 2020

Damn PC buds you’re completely right, you saved my ass. I have glass microscope slides that I intended to place between the driver and the metal. I totally forgot about them when I got to that step, that could have ended up bad... glad I decided to post the pictures before completing the wiring haha. Hopefully this afternoon I can pop the drivers off and add the slides.

Thanks frosty I had no idea what the metal composition is, just that it was scrap. I’m not really concerned with its heat dissipation properties, since the original housing on the SILs didn’t have a heat sink.

PCBuds · Feb 28, 2020

Hookahhead said:
... I have glass microscope slides that I intended to place between the driver and the metal...

You could just put a layer of silicone across the surface of the drivers' circuit board and let it dry then add a bit more and stick it to the heat sink.

And just to be extra safe, you can test the resistance of some dried silicone to see if it conducts electricity.

As far as I know, some high heat silicone has metal particles in it to help it conduct heat.

PCBuds · Feb 28, 2020

I've got some of what appears to be the exact same stuff (but with slightly different packaging) and it is reading OL (open line) when I tested it wet.
(I doubt it would start conducting after it dries.)

Hookahhead said:
... Hopefully this afternoon I can pop the drivers off and add the slides...

That might be difficult. That stuff bonds pretty good.

Sunshineinabag · Feb 28, 2020

the symbiotic relationship between 5000k feitsd and cannabis is something to behold i really wish i had a pic of these when i got them from my neighbor......in 2 inches of miracle grow and she fed them coffee from her pot when they were three nodes old. it is what it is, because i had to take them back and get them properly fit........
sick plants bother me

I do realize that there are folks who have high end lighting that use that as their method for growing....i have yet to see anything from these bulbs that gives me pause to go away from them. i adore this tech and ill be damned if i stray from it!

Sunshineinabag · Feb 28, 2020

10-14 days from heavy flush and new medium (happy frog was on sale)

Hookahhead · Feb 28, 2020

The drivers were easy to pop off, I didn’t use much glue. You can see I definitely would have had contact with the metal. Man I don’t know what I was thinking last night, that was something pretty critical to miss. Thanks again for catching that PC!

I already had the microscope slides on hand. They are a 1 time use item in the lab, so I have a box of “used” ones I use for my home microscopy work. I had planned to use them, but I didn’t get them out before I started working, so I simply skipped them. I glued them down, then glued the drivers on top of them.

A rubber washer, or a like PCBuds said a wad of the silicon glue would also insulate it. Back to waiting to wire it up...

PCBuds · Feb 28, 2020

Hookahhead said:
... Man I don’t know what I was thinking last night, that was something pretty critical to miss. Thanks again for catching that PC! ...

Your welcome.

We all make stupid mistakes.
I was just working on my two fans and one of them was OL (open line) so I thought I'd cut off the plug to see if it was the plug itself that had the broken wire.
I ended cutting the plug off the good fan. Lol

PS... You can snip those wires off to get a bit more clearance.
They're just cattle prods anyway. Lol

Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

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