What's new

(High Intensity Discharge lamps) Principles of Operation, Circuits, Troubleshooting..

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Gas Discharge Lamps, Ballasts, and Fixtures...

Principles of Operation... Trouble-shooting... Repair..


Metal halide lamps...
are constructed along similar lines to mercury vapor lamps.
However, in addition to the mercury and argon, various metal halides are included in the gas fill.
The most popular combination is sodium iodide and scandium iodide.
A few versions of this lamp have lithium iodide as well.
A much less common version has sodium iodide, thallium iodide, and indium iodide.
The use of these compounds increases the luminous efficiency and results in a more pleasing color balance than the raw arc of the mercury vapor lamp.
Thus, no phosphor is needed to produce a color approaching that of a cool white fluorescent lamp with more green and yellow than a mercury vapor lamp (without correction).
Some metal halide lamps have a phosphor that adds some orange-ish red light, but not much, since the metal halide arc does not emit much UV.

Mercury vapor lights...
are a poor choice for growing.

There are two basic problems with mercury vapor lamps.
First, they are not as efficient at turning power to light as HPS or MH lamps are.
Using the same current, they emit less than half the light as an HPS and only 60% of an MH.
Secondly, mercury vapor lamps, even with improved spectrums, emit a lower percentage of useable light than the more efficient lamps.

High pressure sodium vapor lamps...

contain an internal arc tube made of a translucent ceramic material (a form of aluminum oxide known as "polycrystalline alumina").
Glass and quartz cannot be used since they cannot maintain structural strength at the high temperatures (up to 1300 degrees C) encountered here, and hot sodium chemically attacks quartz and glass.
Like other HID lamps, the arc tube is enclosed in an outer glass envelope.
A small amount of metallic (solid) sodium in addition to mercury is sealed in a xenon gas fill inside the ceramic arc tube.
Some versions of this lamp use a neon-argon mixture instead of xenon.
Basic operation is otherwise similar to mercury or metal halide lamps.
High pressure sodium vapor lamps produce an orange-white light and have a luminous efficiency much higher than mercury or metal halide lamps.

Metal halide lamps are much more efficient, generally around 50 to 75 percent more efficient than fluorescent lamps.
High pressure sodium lamps are roughly twice as efficient as fluorescent lamps.

When cold, the metallic mercury or sodium in the arc tube is in its normal state (liquid or solid) at room temperature.
During the starting process, a low pressure discharge is established in the gases.
This produces very little light but heats the metal contained inside the arc tube and gradually vaporizes it.
As this happens, the pressure increases and light starts being produced by the discharge through the high pressure metal vapor. A quite noticeable transition period occurs when the light output increases dramatically over a period of a minute or more.
The entire warm up process may require up to 10 minutes, but typically takes 3 to 5 minutes.
A hot lamp cannot be restarted until it has cooled since the voltage needed to re-strike the arc is too high for the normal AC line/ballast combination to provide.

H.I.D. Conversion Lamps –
There are two types of conversion lamps:
A. Sodium Lamps which run on halide ballasts - are the most common.
B. & Halide Lamps which run on sodium ballasts.


IMB :)
 
Last edited:

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Problems With High Intensity Discharge Lamps

Problems With High Intensity Discharge Lamps

While HID lamps have a very long life compared to incandescents (up to 24,000 hours), they do fail.
The ballasts can also go bad.
In addition, their light output falls off gradually as they age.
For some types, light output may drop to half its original value towards the end of their life.

A lamp which is cycling - starting, warming up, then turning itself off - is probably overheating due to a bad bulb or ballast.
A thermal protector is probably shutting down the fixture to protect it or the arc is being extinguished on its own.
Sodium lamps sometimes "cycle" when they have aged greatly. The arc tube's discolorations absorb light from the arc, causing the arc tube to overheat, the sodium vapor pressure becomes excessive, and the arc cannot be maintained.
If a sodium lamp "cycles", the first suspect is an aging bulb which should be replaced.
Sodium lamp "cycling" used to be very common, but in recent years the lamp manufacturers have been making sodium lamps that are less prone to cycling.

If you have more than one fixture which uses **identical** bulbs, swapping the bulbs should be the first test.
If the problem remains with the fixture, then its ballast or other circuitry is probably bad.
Don't be tempted to swap bulbs between non-identical fixtures even if they fit unless the bulb types are the same. [BIG NO-NO]

Warning: do not operate an HID lamp if the outer glass envelope is cracked or broken.

First, this is dangerous because the extremely hot arc tube can quite literally explode with unfortunate consequences...
In addition, the mercury arc produces substantial amounts of short wave UV which is extremely hazardous to anything living. The outer glass normally blocks most of this from escaping.

Some lamps are actually designed with fusable links that will open after some specified number of hours should air enter the outer envelope.
Thus, an undetected breakage will result in the lamp dying on its own relatively quickly.

Ballasts and Bulbs Should be Matched!

HID bulbs need specific ballasts, and any given ballast can usually safely and effectively operate only one type of HID bulb.

IMB :)
 
Last edited:

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
GLOSSARY OF GROW LIGHT TERMS

GLOSSARY OF GROW LIGHT TERMS

AMPHERE (AMP): The unit used to measure the strength of an electric current.

ARC: The luminous discharge of electricity between two electrodes and HID lighting.

ARC DISCHARGE: A transfer of electricity across two electrodes (anode and cathode) characterized by high electrode current densities and a low voltage drop at the electrode.

ARC TUBE: The enclosure, which contains the luminous gases and also houses the arc.

BALLAST: An auxiliary piece of equipment designed to start and to properly control the flow of power to gas discharge light sources such as fluorescent and high intensity discharge lamps. In metal halide systems, it is composed of the transformer, capacitor and connecting wiring; sodium systems require an igniter in addition to the transformer and capacitor.

BU: An industry code indicating that the bulb is to be operated only in a base-up position.

CONVERSION BULB: A bulb of a certain spectrum type (e.g. sodium) specially designed to operate while used in the fixture/ballast of a different type (e.g. metal halide). The most popular conversion bulbs by far are sodium conversion bulbs, which allow one to have the sodium spectrum while still using a metal halide system.

CORRELATED COLOR TEMPERATURE (CCI): A specification of the color appearance of a light source, relating its color to that of a blackbody radiator, as measured in Kelvins (K) CCT is a general measure of a lamp’s “coolness” or “warmness”.

DOME: The portion of an HID outer bulb located opposite base (the neck and threads).

DOME SUPPORT: The spring-like brackets which mount the arc tube within the outer envelope (bulb).

DISCHARGE LAMP: A lamp that produces light by discharging an electric arc through a mixture of gases and gaseous metals.

ELECTRODES: Filaments located at either end of a discharge lamp that maintain an electrical arc between them. See arc discharge.

FIXTURE: The electrical fitting used to contain the electric components of a lighting system.

FLUORESCENT LAMP: A discharge lamp in which a phosphor coating transforms ultraviolet energy into visible light. Fluorescent lamps are good for starting seedlings and rooting cuttings, but do not have enough intensity to sustain aggressive growth in plants in the later stages of life and are not efficient enough in their conversion of electrical poser to lumens of light output.

FOOTCANDLE: A standard measurement of light intensity, representing the amount of illuminance on a surface one foot square on which there is a uniformly distributed flux of one lumen. More simply, one foot-candle of illuminance is equal to the light emitted by one candle at a distance of one foot.

FREQUENCY: The number of waves or cycles of electromagnetic radiation per second, usually measured in Hertz (Hz).

HALOGEN LAMP: A short name for the tungsten-halogen lamp. Halogen lamps are high pressure incandescent lamps containing halogen gases such as iodine or bromine which allow the filaments to be operated at higher temperatures and higher efficacies. While excellent for home lighting and similar applications, halogen lamps are not effective or efficient as grow lights due to their limited spectrum and high operating temperatures.

HID: The popular acronym for High Intensity Discharge.

HIGH-INTENSITY DISCHARGE (HID) LAMP: A general term for mercury, metal halide and high-pressure sodium lamps. HID lamps contain compact arc tubes which enclose various gases and metal salts operating at relatively high pressures and temperatures.

HIGH-PRESSURE SODIUM LAMP: High-pressure sodium lamps operate by igniting sodium, mercury and xenon gases within a sealed ceramic arc tube. Sodium lamps emit light energy in the yellow/red/orange regions of the spectrum; the red spectrum stimulates flowering and fruit production. Many indoor gardeners switch to sodium lamps when it is time to induce flowering or fruiting of their plants.

HOOD: The reflective cover used in conjunction with an HID lamp. The more reflectivity a hood can provide, the more effective it is.

HOR: An industry code indicating that the bulb is to be operated in a horizontal position.

HOT SPOT: The area immediately under an HID lamp where the light intensity is strongest. Hot spots cause uneven growth, but can be remedied by using light movers.

HOT START TIME: The length of time required to bring an HID lamp to 90% light output after a short power interruption.

IGNITOR: A component of the ballast necessary for the starting of the bulb in sodium systems.

ILLUMINANCE: The density of incident luminous flux on a surface; illuminance is the standard metric for lighting levels, and is measured in lux (Ix) or foot-candles (fc).

ILLUMINATION: The act of illuminating or state of being illuminated. This term is often used incorrectly in place of the term illuminance to denote the density of luminous flux on a surface.

INCANDESCENT LAMP: A light source which generates light utilizing a thin filament wire (usually of tungsten) heated to white heat by an electric current passing through it. Incandescent lamps are the most familiar type of light source, with countless application in homes, stores and other commercial settings. Light is produced by passing electric current through a thin wire filament, usually tungsten. Incan_descent lamps are totally ineffective as grow lights; they have very limited spectrum, are very inefficient in their conversion of electrical power to lumens of light output (lumen-to-watt ratio). They also put off far too much heat per watt to use in horticulture, even if the above-mentioned problems did not exist.

INTENSITY: A term referring to the magnitude of light energy per unit; light intensity diminishes evenly as you get further from the source.

KELVIN TEMPERATURE (K): The unit of measurement to express the color (spectrum) of light emitted by a lamp; the absolute temperature of a blackbody radiator having a chromaticity equal to that of the light source (see correlated color temperature). A standard clear metal halide HID lamp has an average Kelvin temperature rating of 4,000K.

KILOWATT (kW): A unit of electric power usage equal to 1,000 watts.

KILOWATT HOUR (kwh): Measurement of electric energy. A kilowatt-hour is equal to 1,000 watts of power used over a period of one hour.

LAMP: An electrically energized source of light, commonly called a bulb or tube.

LAMP LIFE: A measure of lamp performance, as measured in median hours of burning time under ANSI test conditions.

LAMP LUMEN DEPRECIATION (LLD): The decrease over time of lamp lumen output, cased by bulb wall blackening, phosphor exhaustion, filament depreciation and other factors.

LAMP STARTING: Term used to describe a discharge lamp’s starting characteristics in terms of time to come to full output, flicker, etc.

LIGHT: Radiant energy which can be sensed or seen by the human eye. The term generally applied to the visible energy from a source. Light is usually measured in lumens or candlepower. When light strikes a surface, it is either absorbed, reflected or transmitted. Visible light is measured in lumens.

LIGHT MOVER: A motorized device which moves an HID lamp back and forth across the ceiling of a grow room to provide more even distribution of the light.

LUMEN: A measurement of light output; refers to the amount of light emitted by one candle that falls on one square foot of surface located at a distance of one foot from the candle.

LUMINAIRE: A complete lighting unit consisting of a lamp or lamps together with the components required to distribute the light, position the lamps and connect the lamps to a power supply. Often referred to as a “fixture.”

LUX: A standard unit of luminance. One lux is equal to one lumen per square meter.

METAL HALIDE LAMP: A high-intensity-discharge lamp in which the light is produced by arcing electricity through a mixture of metal halides. The light produced by metal halide lamps is in the white-blue spectrum, which encourages vegetative growth and “bushiness” while discouraging upward growth. This is the bulb to use in the first, vegetative phase of plant growth.

MERCURY VAPOR LAMPS: The oldest member of the HID family, mercury vapor lamps work by arcing electricity through mercury vapor. While more efficient than incandescent, halogen and fluorescent lamps, mercury vapor lamps have the least efficient lumen-to-watt ratio of the entire HID family. This, combined with an improper color spectrum for horticultural applications, makes mercury vapor lamps a poor choice for a grow light.

NECK: The narrow, tubular end of the HID bulb, attached to the threads.

PARABOLIC REFLECTOR: A lighting distribution control device that is designed to redirect the light from an HID lamp in a specific direction. In most applications, the parabolic device directs light down and away from the direct glare zone.

PHOTOPERIOD: The relative periods of light and dark periods within a 24-hour period. Also referred to as day length.

PHOTOSYNTHESIS: The growth process by which plants build chemical compounds (carbohydrates) from light energy, water and C02 (carbon dioxide).

:)
 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Glossary of grow light terms (continued)

Glossary of grow light terms (continued)

PHOTOTROPISM: The gravitation of a plant part toward a light source.

REFLECTOR: The term sometimes used to refer to the reflective hood of an HID lamp.

REFLECTIVITY: The measure of the reflective quality of a surface; the relative ability of a given surface to reflect light away from it without absorbing, diffusing or otherwise compromising the light’s quality, intensity and spectrum.

SOCKET: The threaded, wired receptacle that an HID bulb screws into.

SODIUM LAMP (HIGH-PRESSURE SODIUM LAMP): High-pressure sodium lamps operate by igniting sodium, mercury and xenon gases within a sealed ceramic arc tube. Sodium lamps emit light energy in the yellow/red/orange regions of the spectrum; the red spectrum stimulates flowering and fruit production. Many indoor gardeners switch to sodium lamps when it is time to induce flowering or fruiting of their plants.

SON-AGRO: A sodium bulb which, according to the manufacturer, produces 30% more blue light than standard sodium bulbs. The 430-watt SON AGRO also emits 6% more light than the standard 400-watt sodium lamp.

SPECULAR REFLECTION: The redirection of incident light without diffusion at an angle that is equal to and in the same plane as the angle of incidence.

STERADIAN: A unit solid angle on the surface of a sphere equal to the square of the sphere’s radius.

TRANSFORMER: The component in the ballast that transforms electric current from one voltage to another.

U (For Universal): An industry code indicating that the bulb can be operated in any position; horizontal, vertical (base up) or any other.

ULTRAVIOLET (UV) LIGHT: is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light, but longer than X-rays, in the range 10 nm to 400 nm, and energies from 3eV to 124 eV.
It is so named because the spectrum consists of electromagnetic waves with frequencies higher than those that humans identify as the color violet.

UNDERWRITERS LABORATORIES (UL)”: A private organization which tests and lists electrical (and other) equipment for electrical and fire safety according to recognized standards.

WATT (W): A unit used to measure electric power.

:)
 
Last edited:

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
1000 watt metal halide lamps (BU) - what do you guys suggest, I have been using Sylvania Supers since the 70's. I have a digital ballast, dimmable.
 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
bump

bump

Consider the UV Light definition officially corrected (...years:yes::party: later...) :)

ULTRAVIOLET (UV) LIGHT: is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light, but longer than X-rays, in the range 10 nm to 400 nm, and energies from 3eV to 124 eV.
It is so named because the spectrum consists of electromagnetic waves with frequencies higher than those that humans identify as the color violet.
 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Some relevent tidbits of electricity explained....

Some relevent tidbits of electricity explained....

Power Basics
It is helpful for growers who are using HID (High Intensity Discharge - i.e. Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium) lighting to understand the basics of power.
This short article we will also describe how a standard HID ballast (magnetic, or core & coil) works and what each component in the ballast does.

First, we will describe some basic terminology:

* Volts (V)
In laymen’s terms a volt the difference in the electrostatic charge that exists between two points.
It is this imbalance in the electrostatic charge that causes electrons to flow from one point to the next.
Most households in the US operate on 110/120v while European countries typically use 220/240v.

* Amps (A)
An ampere or Amp is a unit of measure of the rate of current in an electrical conductor moving past a specific point in one second. Most circuit breakers in US households are rated for 15 - 20 amps.

* Watts (W)
A watt is a unit of power, equal to one joule per second.
A watt is easily calculated by multiplying Volts (V) times Amps (A). For example, a lighting system that operates on 120v draws 5.5 amps of current; the total wattage of the lighting system is 120 x 5.5 = 660 watts.

* Hertz
Hertz is a unit of frequency - a cycle in alternating current of one cycle per second.
In the United States, the common household electrical supply is at 60 hertz; this means that the current has 60 cycles per second; in Europe, line frequency is at 50 hertz.


120v vs 240v
Many people are misinformed about the method in which power companies charge for electricity usage.
Many growers believe that if a ballast is rewired from 120v to 240v they will save up to 50% on the power bills.
The reason for this is belief that households are charged by the amperage.
This may be due to the fact that, on average, most households only have up to 200amps available and that each circuit breaker is rated in amps.
The truth is that very little savings will be noted if growers changed their ballasts from 120v to 240v.
Lighting systems that run on 240v will only require half the amperage but not half the wattage.
The method for calculating this is: Amps x Volts = Watts.

For example:
A lighting system that runs on 120v and draws 6 amps of current will consume 120v x 6 amps = 660w; this would typically be a 600w lighting system.
If the same ballast was wired to 240v then the amperage would be 660w/240v = 2.75amps, but the wattage would still be the same.

Power companies do not charge by amperage or volts; they charge by kilowatt hours.
For example one 1000w HID system being run for 1 hour will incur a cost of 1 kilowatt hour.

So then, why have 240v?
There are many reasons for using 240v; however, the main reason for indoor gardeners has to do with amperage.
If a grower is running 5 x 1000w lights at 120v which draws 9.5amps of current per lamp, then 5 separate 15 or 20amp circuit breakers would be required to run the 5 lighting systems.
If the same grower was running their lights on 240v instead of 120v then three lights could be run on one 20 amp circuit.

There is another factor which makes 240v “better” than 120v.
This has to do with voltage drop or the voltage lost due to resistance when power travels down a cable.
The lower the resistance on the wire, the less the voltage drop.
The shorter the distance between the power socket and the ballast, the lower the voltage drop.
A thicker power cable will also reduce the voltage drop due to less resistance.



How do HID ballasts work in general?
HID lamps provide light from an electric discharge or arc and have a negative resistance characteristic that would cause them to draw excessive current, leading to instant lamp destruction if operated directly from line voltage.
The ballast is a power supply for arc discharge lamps.
Its purpose in HID lighting is to provide the proper starting voltage to initiate and maintain the lamp arc and to sustain and control lamp current once the arc is established.

HID lamps come in various type and wattage selections.
Each lamp type and wattage requires specific starting and operating conditions to develop rated light output and operate the lamp within allowable limits.
Ballasts and lamps are designed to meet standards for interchangeability between lamps and ballasts of the same type and wattage.
A lamp must be operated by the ballast designed for that lamp, as improper matching of lamp and ballast may cause damage to the lamp or ballast, or both.

The magnetic ballast is an inductor consisting (usually) of copper coils assembled on a core - commonly referred to as a core & coil ballast.
This assembly converts electrical power into a form appropriate to start and operate HID lamps.
Ballasts for high pressure sodium lamps also include an igniter to start the lamp.
The third major component is the capacitor
, which improves the power factor, subsequently reducing line current draw, and also sets the lamp operating wattage.

Capacitors
Capacitors are a vital part of all core and coil type HID ballasts.
The capacitor is responsible for maintaining power to the bulb once it has fired.
It is also needed to regulate the power to the bulb; if there was no capacitor in the ballast the bulb would keep drawing more and more power until it finally burned out.
Thus, the correct capacitors need to be selected for specific bulb wattage's.

There are two main types of capacitors on the market, wet caps and dry caps.

* Wet Caps or Oil-Filled Capacitors
Oil-Filled capacitors supplied today contain non-PCB oil and are a UL recognized component.
...
The maximum case temperature for oil-filled capacitors is 90°C which makes it ideal for 150w – 400w lighting systems.
These ballasts run cooler than that of the 600w and 1000w systems.

* Dry Caps or Dry Metalized Capacitors
Dry Metalized Capacitors are available to fill almost all needs in HID ballast applications. ...
Dry capacitors are UL recognized and contain no PCB material.
The maximum allowed dry capacitor case temperature is 105°C which suits 600w and 1000w systems.
These capacitors cost more but are well worth the extra expense.

Igniters (or Starters)
An igniter is an electronic component that must be included in the circuitry of all high pressure sodium lighting systems.
The igniter provides a pulse of at least 2500 volts or more to initiate the lamp arc.
When the lighting system is energized, the igniter provides the required pulse until the lamp arc is established and automatically stops pulsing once the lamp has started.
It also furnishes the pulse continuously when the lamp has failed or the socket is empty. Igniters are needed for all HPS lighting systems, but not for MH systems.
The starting pulse of the igniter in an HPS can damage the internal components of an MH bulb.

Switchable Ballasts
Instead of purchasing two different lighting systems, one switchable ballast can be used instead.
The grower would normally start with an MH bulb for the vegetative stage of the crop.
Once the crop is ready for flowering all the grower has to do is flip a switch on the ballast and change the MH bulb to an HPS bulb.
The switch on the ballast isolates the igniter from the transformer and capacitor.
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/static/articles/1006_eltrc.asp


Happy gardening y'all,
IMB :)
 
Last edited:

Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
Great thread! I don't care how old it is, it is still relevant! I am looking for info specific to my current needs and did not find it here but hopefully someone can help me before I spend hours I don't have searching for it.

My question:

I just got a light meter, seems to only measure up to 50,000 lux (lux = lumens right?). So how far do I hold it from a 1000 MH or HPS to check the lumen intensity? I can't afford new lamps right now, so if the output hasn't degraded too much I will use them a little longer. One is a vertical 1000 MH not sure if it was a super bulb or regular, and it is like 17-18 years old. It was used one crop then, and a couple recently and seems plenty bright enough. The 1000 super HPS is a few years younger and never used but seems dimmer! So where do I find a chart that shows how much light intensity diminishes with both distance from the lamp and with time or use? thanks so much in advance!
 

justanotherbozo

Active member
Veteran
yeah so anyone know about what I asked?

hey man, i don't know if this will help but i DO know pico used light meters quite extensively to test several different reflectors in an effort to judge which is best.

[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=51325"]Air cooled reflector testing with Digital footcandle meter[/URL]

like i said, his purpose was somewhat different than yours but you may find the answers you seek, either directly with the data or indirectly by reading between the lines, ...i haven't read the thread in some time so i can't say for sure.

hth, bozo
 

Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
thanks dude I started checking out that thread, doesn't seem to have what I am looking for but maybe it lurks in all those pages somewhere. I knew I once saw a chart or illustration that showed how much each type of lamp is supposed to emit at a given distance. I will keep looking thanks for trying to help! :)
 

Red Fang

Active member
Veteran
ok I have been through years of bookmarks/favorites and searches and still can't find what I am looking for. I may be remembering more than one thing. ONe is like an upside down cone or pyramid diagram showing how light diminishes the further you get from the light, but the other is a colorful chart with numbers and spec's. Anyone help please?
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top