Looking for suggestions on enviromental conditons in room

Looking for some tips on a room that is running very dry.
I have 9 gavita DE 1000 in a 250 square foot room. There is approx 200 sq/ft of canopy space/6 tables. I am ventilating the room via 2-10 inch 1000cfm fans intake and the same for exhaust, 4 fans total. I can keep the temps in acceptable ranges for the whole year but the room runs very dry. I have grown in spaces that allow for much more humidity and I see much better results/plant health and vigor. I would love to run a sealed or semi sealed room and add c02 and have my humdity and temps in line with an ideal vpd but dont have the power for ac cooling or the drainage for using a water cooled chiller(i have a 3 fan chiller/approx 36000 btu cooling). After my first transplant when the plants are still small the humidity is very low 33-40 and they are slow to come around, it raises a bit as they fill out the room but I also turn on more lights and increase the temp which requires more ventilation and drops the humidity again. Any thoughts on how I could run this room differently to achieve a higher humidity, is there any feasible way to add c02 in a ventilated or semi ventilated room.
Cheers

youve got two choices and I think you know that. 1) sealed with a/c and co2. 2) reduce your heat output so that you dont have to move as much air. you could set fans to extract at high temp threshold allowing you to trap your humidity/transpiration.



I would say you might have a third option by installing overhead misting, but I have never experimented with this and youd be screwed with low humidity in flower.

Beesknees1 said:

Looking for some tips on a room that is running very dry.
I have 9 gavita DE 1000 in a 250 square foot room.There is approx 200 sq/ft of canopy space/6 tables. I am ventilating the room via 2-10 inch 1000cfm fans intake and the same for exhaust, 4 fans total. I can keep the temps in acceptable ranges for the whole year but the room runs very dry.

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Some folks have good luck with positive pressure to keep humidity up, i.e. active intake with passive exhaust, but smell can be an issue if it's not hermetically sealed.

Beesknees1 said:

I have grown in spaces that allow for much more humidity and I see much better results/plant health and vigor. I would love to run a sealed or semi sealed room and add c02 and have my humdity and temps in line with an ideal vpd but dont have the power for ac cooling or the drainage for using a water cooled chiller(i have a 3 fan chiller/approx 36000 btu cooling).

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Why do you need drainage to use the chiller for cooling? Run lines through a few iceboxs and back to chiller, it should be a closed loop system, no?

Beesknees1 said:

After my first transplant when the plants are still small the humidity is very low 33-40 and they are slow to come around, it raises a bit as they fill out the room but I also turn on more lights and increase the temp which requires more ventilation and drops the humidity again. Any thoughts on how I could run this room differently to achieve a higher humidity, is there any feasible way to add c02 in a ventilated or semi ventilated room.
Cheers

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When plants are small you may still need to raise humidity even in sealed or semi-sealed room. You can use foggers from house of hydro to build homemade humidifier that works better than anything you can buy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5FTCsW9Zu8 Build it into an active intake for best results.

Welcome to ICMag!!

What is your goal? Max weight for straight sale, or maximum smoking quality? Straight weight, I'd stick with high heat and work on upping the humidity. Perhaps turn off one of the lights and re-direct this energy toward humidification. Hot and humid makes for great yields.

Maximum smoking quality? I'd dump enough lights, to put in enough a/c for flowering at 70F. I'd also include de-humidification, so I can hit as low as 20% RH. Personally, I like around 25%. This gets me the highest terpene production and retention, and really trichome dense and sticky plants.

The highest cannabinoid landraces seem to come out of Malawi africa and Thailand, I dont know if i agree with that logic DC. Seems more like 15 degrees north or south of the equator in tropic environments produces the highest quality cannabis.

I would say you might have a third option by installing overhead misting, but I have never experimented with this and youd be screwed with low humidity in flower.[/quote]

According to local hydro store I would be looking at 4 industrial foggers and still fighting a losing battle.

Why do you need drainage to use the chiller for cooling? Run lines through a few iceboxs and back to chiller, it should be a closed loop system, no?

I have a three fan water cooled heat exchanger. Usually there used with unlimited water supply and drainage. I have the unlimited supply but not enough drainage. I was actually considering recirculating the water from a 250 gallon rez I have sitting outside since it will stay somewhat cold(winter) but the water might heat up too much over the 12-18 hours.



When plants are small you may still need to raise humidity even in sealed or semi-sealed room. You can use foggers from house of hydro to build homemade humidifier that works better than anything you can buy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5FTCsW9Zu8 Build it into an active intake for best results.[/quote]

This is awesome im gonna look into that.

Douglas.Curtis said:

Welcome to ICMag!!

What is your goal? Max weight for straight sale, or maximum smoking quality? Straight weight, I'd stick with high heat and work on upping the humidity. Perhaps turn off one of the lights and re-direct this energy toward humidification. Hot and humid makes for great yields.

Maximum smoking quality? I'd dump enough lights, to put in enough a/c for flowering at 70F. I'd also include de-humidification, so I can hit as low as 20% RH. Personally, I like around 25%. This gets me the highest terpene production and retention, and really trichome dense and sticky plants.

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Thanks!
Im gonna be more on the production side, although quality is also important obviously. I generally like to run up to week six with high hum/temp and drop the last two weeks..

This is gonna sound really strange. My lights and intake/exhaust are all in the top 3 ish feet of my room. Exhaust is right near the ceiling, so are lights and intake is ducting running the upper corners of the room with slits pointing down. Do you think there is any way I could throw in some greenhouse material at 3-4 feet from the ceiling so that the lighting/intake and exhaust are separated from the plants and I can cool the lights will keeping the area below the plastic with the plants relatively separated from some of the heat form the lights. This way I could keep more humidity in and possibly add c02. Or the radiant heat combined with the greenhouse effect would make the heat even worse. I don't think I've ever seen this done so probably would have to try it out and see

Maybe you could split the room in half, and do a flip flop, allowing you to utilize more electricity?

Also lowering the heat by almost 50% overall, and possibly be able to pull the humidity from the lights out room and use motorized dampers..or just seal both rooms and use the dampers instead of having double the Cooling units.

Seams like a better way to split the room than running an indoor greenhouse

Ibechillin said:

The highest cannabinoid landraces seem to come out of Malawi africa and Thailand, I dont know if i agree with that logic DC. Seems more like 15 degrees north or south of the equator in tropic environments produces the highest quality cannabis.

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It produces the highest cannabinoid content for sure. Historically though, the highest terpene producing and premium hash producing regions are all mountains. High, cool and dry. Last I checked, Africa and Thailand have never really been known for hash production.

In my opinion, cannabis grown in hot/wet environments grows more plant under the same number of trichomes. When compared to the same plants grown in cool/dry environments. Additionally, there are a number of more fragile monoterpenes which vape off at low temps around 70F. There is no real "stretch" at these temps and humidity levels. You really have to work on canopy management and longer veg times, to achieve the same yields as hot/wet.

I just finished trimming a branch of Tsue. I've grown her the last few years now. The humidity where I live now is too high for my liking, and she's not as frosty as previous years. Wonderful quality, sure, just not as trichome dense and aromatic as I prefer her to be. Gotta bite the bullet until I can afford a/c with dehumidification.

its nice when everything is dialed in