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leaves looking bad- any tips?

Narniros

New member
hello, I have 4 auto plants in an indoor set-up/
400w hps
3 plants are deep in flowering but one plant does not show any signs of flowering.
they are all different strains so I guess that is ok.
However, he doesnt look healthy and he has stains on the leaf.
ph of ground is 6

any thoughts?
r0crCQw

 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
Hmm that looks nearer to a 3 gal to me..

Your "soil" isnt cutting it anyway. What are they in?

Does it have any buffering? Or organic matter added?
 

Narniros

New member
3 g pot. ph 6 and not adding anything else. also the soil seems to stay very moist 4 days after watering. thank you
 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
What do you mean by pH for water?

I mean its likely they're struggling for calcium because there wont be any left free in the soil and at that pH its difficult to absorb..

What you're seeing now is a deficiency in the soil that probably started weeks ago and i would seriously advise going to an organic mix in much bigger pots if you want soil grown and an easy calcium deficiency free life.. or do coco/hydro.. There is no inbetween imo..
 
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aridbud

automeister
ICMag Donor
Veteran
hi, they are in 3 g pots and i am not adding anything besides PH for water.
thank you

They need to be lightly fed. Water only in the last days before harvest! You can add coco to soil....we do that in od grows.
 

Sign

Member
Straight promix works great and is available at big box stores. If you were to go to your local hardware store and picked up some 5 gallon buckets you could put 2 gallons promix on the bottom and plop the root ball on top then pack it down and I'd bet your problems would be over in a day or two.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I think your timeline started with the chevron effect, before spotting in the leaf serrations. Then water usage slowed.
This would indicate toxicity. I would try a bit of a flush, and raise PH a bit. Your right on the edge with 6.0 and I'm unsure if your watering at a similar PH and causing acidification.
Can you check the PH of the first run-off?


It would be unusual to see toxicity without feeding, but it's how it looks to me.
You could try a foliage feed on one, to see which direction it heads. Results are fast.


Just asking myself the question here, of if acidification can fix K.
 
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Cvh

Well-known member
Supermod
I think your timeline started with the chevron effect, before spotting in the leaf serrations. Then water usage slowed.
This would indicate toxicity. I would try a bit of a flush, and raise PH a bit. Your right on the edge with 6.0 and I'm unsure if your watering at a similar PH and causing acidification.
Can you check the PH of the first run-off?


It would be unusual to see toxicity without feeding, but it's how it looks to me.
You could try a foliage feed on one, to see which direction it heads. Results are fast.


Just asking myself the question here, of if acidification can fix K.

What is the Chevron effect? Never heard of it.

The Op should better let his pots dry out first before flushing and keeping it even more moist.
Sounds to me he's having an aeration and/or overwatering problem if his soil stays very moist after 4 days in 3g pots. Keeping his pots to wet without a dry period might have caused rootdamage. Also the Op said he isn't feeding (or even hasn't given any feed).

Rootdamage and no nutrients (only pH adjusted plain water) might have caused the deficiencies we see.
The low soil pH might be caused by that too.

My advice would be to let the pots dry out first and then correctly water with some nutrients. (Adjusted to a proper pH). Flushing wouldn't be good in this case I think.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
A chevron is a V shape. Seen forming here where the leaf material between the veins is getting lighter.

I had forgot this thread. I wonder if the OP fixed it. Reading it again, in the morning not at night, I'm getting a different feel for it. I reckon I misdiagnosed the lack of drinking. The sick plant probably can't shift that volume of water, so is sat in some de-oxygenated state close to stasis. Slowing it's drinking further. Before I had thought toxicity is stopping it drinking, but the signs are quite widespread. Primarily K, but other issue's are present, and no strong overfeed signs.

It sounds like a total turn around, but I did have this idea going around before, and my advice is down the middle. I think a foliar fed plant would perk up, because they are not getting any food. The flush would only serve to get the stagnant water out, probably without any build-up but it's good to cover all bases. Then on that day you have fresh water, and a plant sprayed with food, and others with non. 24 hours later, he would probably be feeding his plants. This sounds like a whole load of over watering, but look at DWC. I have found the risk of over-watering isn't seen the day you do it. It's seen when that water looses it's oxygen content, and drying of the medium hasn't drawn in more as it's soaked still.

A foliar feed is high on my list of to-do here. I'm fixed on the idea they have no food. Then it's either wait for the substrate to dry, Or refresh it.

Forgive me father, for I sin. I would be slamming hydrogen peroxide in there, and chemical feed. Knowing it would leave me something in the pot that plants can certainly live on. Essentially switching to a system Frank would call quasi hydro. Get them well, and then cut the hydrogen peroxide. It wouldn't be the first time I had done it. But such suggestions could get me banned from some places. Oxy in soil? OUT! lol


Edit: The strong K signs are a real problem, as it's K that's involved with water uptake. It's deficiency is why we see burning at the leaf edges. It's a water supply issue within the plant. It isn't drinking, because of the K issue, which means other things are not being taken in either. K is hard to apply by foliar means, but does still work. So spray using a wetting agent. Getting K in there will start the plant drinking again.
 
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