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DIY Cool Tube

Sauce

Active member
x10fast said:


sockethg5.gif


Sorry for the shitty paint sketching but you get the basic idea. Just wire the cord to the socket, you don't want the base assembly part at all. You would probably save $ and time to just buy the cord and the socket separate and then wiring them together. Sometimes you can find a socket already wired to the cord with no assembly part.
 
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starfarmer999

New member
WHERE"s THE PICTURES?????

WHERE"s THE PICTURES?????

Who took the photos down from the original DIY post by username?????? :cuss:
HELP! HELP! HELP!
you are ruining the whole new generation of farmers :) How are we supposed to learn?
 

Sauce

Active member
starfarmer999 said:
Who took the photos down from the original DIY post by username??????

I think he deleted that account and registered another one. I believe once an account is deleted all the pictures go with it since they are all stored on this site.

I really love how much picture space ICMag gives us all to work with and how easy it is to upload pics here, the only downside is that when an account goes so do all the pics.
 
G

Guest

What size fans do you guys use in the ducting for these cool tubes? I'm thinking of making one with a 400W hps and putting a pc power supply fan on either side of the bulb, one pushing one pulling.

Will this be enough?

I'm sure we can find the pics somewhere- anyone know who he is now?
 
G

GR8shoeBaDizzle

ryangodammit said:
What size fans do you guys use in the ducting for these cool tubes? I'm thinking of making one with a 400W hps and putting a pc power supply fan on either side of the bulb, one pushing one pulling.

Will this be enough?

I'm sure we can find the pics somewhere- anyone know who he is now?



4 real i got a 400 hps, gonna make 1 but what size fan should i use, my new room is 4x3x6.5
 

redlevels

Active member
Is it my PC or are all the pics from the thread below that shows how to build a cool tube been removed?

weird! :spank:




User Name said:
I thought I'd throw these pics up of how I built my cool tubes. Hopefully this will help someone. I got everything but the socket and the glass from Home Depot. The hurricane lamp glass can be found at most hobby/arts + crafts stores.

Total Cost: Approx. $20


:sasmokin: Here's what I used:
Hurricane Lamp Glass
6" to 4" Ducting Reducer [optional]
Metal Pipe Strap [28 Gauge]
3"-5" Hose Clamp
Aluminum Foil Tape
Lamp Socket that came with my ballast

10546the-projects-017.jpg






:sasmokin: First, you need approx. 2 ft. of pipe strap. This can either be cut with metal snips, or you can just bend it back and forth until it breaks [caution: it will get hot before it breaks]

10546the-projects-018.jpg






:sasmokin: Next, make 2 folds in the strap, so you are left with a section 1/3rd the original length, but much sturdier and thicker. IMPORTANT: When folding the strap, make sure the holes are aligned with each other.

10546the-projects-022.jpg


10546the-projects-020.jpg







:sasmokin: Next, mount your socket in the middle of the strap. I used the hardware that came with my ballast, and my socket's mount holes line up just right with the holes in the strap. NOTE: You may have to drill an extra hole in the strap if your socket's mounts don't line up.

:sasmokin: Once your socket is secured in the middle of the strap, place it on the glass and bend the 2 ends down around the glass. You should end up with something like this......

10546the-projects-023.jpg


10546the-projects-024.jpg


10546the-projects-028.jpg







:sasmokin: Once you've got the strap bent around the glass, and the socket is near centered in the glass, put the hose clamp around the straps and tighten it down. CAUTION: Don't overtighten the clamp, it could break the glass.

10546the-projects-034.jpg







:sasmokin: At this point, make sure your socket is mounted tightly, then you can insert your bulb and check to see if it's centered properly.

10546the-projects-036.jpg


10546the-projects-037.jpg






:sasmokin: Now the big end of the ducting reducer goes over the socket-end of the glass. I used high-temp aluminum foil tape so it will not melt if my fan ever fails.

10546the-projects-038.jpg


10546the-projects-039.jpg







:sasmokin: Connect the socket wires to the ballast, and hook up your ducting. 6" ducting can be taped directly to the glass without the use of the reducer. 4" ducting can also be taped directly to the glass if you need to save space.
 
The story of my life when you start to do something and then go back for reference, shit's gone should have copied it when I had the chance
 
G

Guest

Basically, what he did was so simple, absolutely without waste in material or added weight, it can be told, without even having the pictures still available. I remember it, because i thought about whether there was any aspect of it, that one could forget- in case of exactly what you just said, and we all [don't] see - happened.

All he did, was take a piece of the strap, the pipe strap that is called 'plumber's tape' - it comes in different sizes, but he used the 3/4 inch wide pipe hanging strap- metal with two sized holes, punched along it's length, in the center.


He got a piece about six inches long or so, and just laid the ends of the pipe strap, bent over on the outside of one end of his glass tube: so he could put the hose clamp around it.

Obviously, he was left with a strap of metal across the center of one end: and what was fastened to the strap?

His lightbulb's socket: the sockets have two holes, and for his style light socket the small holes just happened to line up perfectly for him to tie the light socket to the metal strap, like the two things were made for each other: the light sockets have two threaded, brass inserts built in, so they can be mounted, and he got the appropriate machine screws and *bam*- instant, strong, removable, socket mount into a cool tube.

With the strap's ends bent over the outside of the glass, he slipped the hose clamp over the two ends of the strap, tightened down till jusst good-n-snug, and b () () m: light socket centered in one end.

Then, he stuck his vent hose reducer over one end or the other, i can't remember which, and hit it with some of that real metal foil tape to stick it on. I guess he stuck the vent reducer over the opposite end, and pulled air through it that way; can't remember.

The thing is one of the most amazingly genius applications i've seen in diy grow threads, and i've read a lot of em. I was hoping to see someone had built a new one when i came in, but alas; no go and since the guy's gone, i can't even remember his name to pass it on.

Maybe someone who's built one that way will come along and put pictures of theirs up. What a perfect diy project.
 
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A

avgjoe

Anyone have any clue how he handled the chord coming out from the socket in the tube and still keeping it airtight? The chord can't be going through the glass or the side of the ducting?
 

FRANKENBLUNT420

me blunt is like, wicked yo!! owight
THIS. . .IS. . .SO . . .DEKCUF. . . UP!

and i came here right AFTER i went and bought the damned hurricane tube. . . oh god i miss OVERGROW!!!!!
 

zolar

Member
if you used flexible dryer vent tube on the socket end you could put a hole for the cord through the tube and seal it with regular duct tape if its a few inches away from the glass part also that metal strap with holes could be used with a good computer fan to make an inline fan you would need a short piece of hard wall dryer vent pipe , computer fan , metal strap w/holes , sheet metal screws heavy duty foil or foil tape drill for fan cord hole rtv sealer

take computer fan and wrap metal strap around it in a square put fan in middle of strap have ends of strap meet at a corner fasten yogether w. small bolt or screw strap is double about 1/2 to 1+ diagonnaly from corner [length depends on vent pipe size band tag ends of strapping away from each other and
create a circle of strap that just fits in hard vent pipe inside remove strap assembly from pipe cover seal with tape foil etc the area outside the square part and inside the circle drill 3or 4 holes in middle of vent pipe all of them same distance from end [look at older ceiling fixture w/glass cover with 3 thumbscrews
for glass cover when changing bulb you holes are going to have 3 or 4 screws to be a stop for the strap sort of like those thumbscrews ] slide strap foil fan holder into pipe against screws drill hole over strap and put screw in to hold it [if you use screws its easier to replace the fan than if you glue it [ oh if you wrap the fan with strips of rubber jar opener before mounting it in square it won't vibrate as much] glue fan in with a couple spots of rtv or wedge in with screws from both sides of straping [like doorstops on either side of a door to keep it from moving either direction] drill hole for fan wires and seal with duct tape after running wires put power to the fan and check air flow if it looks feels good install in your venting tubing
 
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